How do you use Nuwell?

[Martin_Meyers]

My mother has a 40 year old irrigation well that is about 150 feet deep. Over the last decade or so it has produced less and less, to about 1 gpm now. My thought was it wouldn't hurt to try Nuwell 100 and see what happens. However I am not sure how to use it. Has anyone used it before and what is the process? Do you have to flush out the well afterwards? What about other wells that are relatively close by?

Thank you.

 

[Valveman]

There are other things that might work better. But it won't hurt to try. Use the proper amount of Nuwell tabs and chase with enough water to displace the water in the casing. Let it set the amount of time listed in the instructions. Then yes you will need to pump it clean before using the water.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Martin_Meyers]

There are other things that might work better. But it won't hurt to try. Use the proper amount of Nuwell tabs and chase with enough water to displace the water in the casing. Let it set the amount of time listed in the instructions. Then yes you will need to pump it clean before using the water.

Thanks valveman.
Can you explain what you mean by "chase", do you mean fill the borehole with water after dropping the pellets in?

Also what other ways would with better? My thought was the well was drilled 40 plus years ago and the aquifer pores have probably become blocked over time.

I asked the local driller about fracking, they stated they do not do that.

A little history, I installed a pump saver ten years ago with a 2500 gallon tank. The well pumps into that, until dry then shuts off for thirty minutes.

Also I would like to replace the pump, but I'll start a new thread for that.

Sorry about incomplete message, trying to do this from my phone.

 

[Reach4]

Can you explain what you mean by "chase", do you mean fill the borehole with water after dropping the pellets in?

He means to add water to force the treated water out of the screen and into the nearby strata. Like a chaser for drinkers.

 

[TJanak]

My initial thought is that the static level/pumping level in the majority (probably) of California wells has decreased significantly over the last 10 years.

 

[ChiefEngineer]

He means to add water to force the treated water out of the screen and into the nearby strata. Like a chaser for drinkers.

So this seems like a completely naive question (from me) but here goes: I have seen 2 youtube videos: pouring the pellets down the 4 inch casing, the other down the waterpipe inside the casing. By "screen" I presume you mean the mechanism on the casing which allows water to seep in, not anything on the pump itself? Since I would be doing this with no neighbor within miles I would have to siphon water from my swimming pool. Now since I have a "stuck pump" it seems there is a possibility I have something that has swollen to the point the pellets might sit on top of it? In that case would they have any effect or would this actually be desirable from the standpoint of dissolving rust? From what I gather in this thread the pellets are more designed to re-permeate strata than what I am guessing I am trying to do(?)

 

[Reach4]

You would save up water to use. I discuss methods for saving a "flooding volume" in my well sanitizing write-up. https://terrylove.com/forums/index....izing-extra-attention-to-4-inch-casing.65845/

 

[Valveman]

Down the drop pipe to the pump won't do any good as the check valve will prevent it from getting into the well where it needs to be.

 

[ChiefEngineer]

You would save up water to use. I discuss methods for saving a "flooding volume" in my well sanitizing write-up. https://terrylove.com/forums/index....izing-extra-attention-to-4-inch-casing.65845/

OK, thanks. I read it. I have Nuwell tablets coming tomorrow. Here is what I plan; any extra advice/criticism, even shooting from the hip, is extremely welcome:

1) 4 inch galvanized casing with stuck pump somewhere below the average water level of 100ft.
2) Well is unknown depth but all the neighbors' wells are around 130ft. The Nuwell instructions say "Open your well top and determine there is enough room for the Nuwell to descend below your pump if you are leaving it in place". This is an undetermined "fail" for me requiring steps 3-7 (below):
3) I have filled (1) 40 gallon trash can in the wellhouse for flushing and plan to dissolve one-half gallon of Nuwell 100 tablets (4.5 lbs) in 3 gallons water for one hour, then pour down winched open casing/cap...this is to get around/under pump as much as possible.
4) Immediately dump second half-gallon of undissolved pellets down casing and let sit on the swollen pump to dissolve (maximizing the effect of de-rusting). If I also have a hole/crack in the pipe (and not just a failed check valve) just above the pump my hope is that some of this will begin to find it's way inside.
5) I intend to let this sit overnight and see if the tension on the winched polypipe loosens. If it
doesn't, agitate the solution by pouring 5 gallons water at a time down the casing every few hours
until my trashcan of water empties.
6) After 24 hours if no movement I intend to agitate the solution by dropping the cap back on
the casing and running the pump for 1-2 minutes every hour about 4 times also seeing see if the pressure has increased from de-mineralizing.
7) If no improvement I intend to give it one big "pull" to see if it budges before putting it all back together and pumping the solution out of the well somewhere benign (after 48 hours).

 

[Reach4]

If your pump is stuck in sand, a big engine driven compressor sending air down via 3/4 or 1 inch PVC can blow sand out.

The well company that I saw trying to get a pump out did not succeed with that method. But that well was not really a sand producer. They ended up pushing the pump down.

Renting those is not cheap.

 

[Fitter30]

Isn't your pump stainless? Like to put a tablet in a bucket of water see how long it takes to dissolve. Get some litmus paper and keep checking the well water for ph. Wire and beer making places sell them.​

Sulphamic acid​

Sulphamic (sulfamic) acid is also used for industrial descaling. It is less volatile, corrosive and irritating than hydrochloric acid. This makes it a common – though more expensive – replacement for harsher acids. However, sulphamic acid used for industrial descaling presents its own problems.

Health and safety risks​

While less corrosive than hydrochloric acid, sulphamic acid can still cause significant burning if it comes into direct contact with skin and eyes. The acid releases a vapour that is irritating to the respiratory system and eyes. Long term exposure can result in skin irritations and sensitisation.

Dangerous to aquatic life​

Sulphamic acid is very toxic to aquatic organisms such as fish. Because it can cause long term adverse effects in aquatic environments, sulphamic acid should not be released into waterways. This creates significant waste management issues.

Waste disposal costs​

Sulphamic acid should not be disposed of down drains, including the rinse water. This means time-consuming waste management processes and expensive waste removal costs. Even empty containers that are not totally clean must be specially disposed of.

 

[ChiefEngineer]

Get some litmus paper and keep checking the well water for ph.

So I am in the middle of this and have this to report:
1) The instructions on the product (and this thread) scared my family senseless, so I
tried to fit the pellets down the well cap sanitizing plug opening.
2)The opening "hung the pellets" in its multi-layer non-planar state no matter how we
arranged, pounded, or loosened. The pellets had to be jammed down the hole with a
punch and hammer which powdered them and would have taken all day.
3)Back to the original plan (except no dissolving the pellets first). Dumped 9 lbs. down casing
and sealed well back up and put piping back together.
4)After a number of hours ran pump for 1-2 minutes. Pressure gauge clicked wildly up and down
like I had never seen it (acid gasses?) before water discharged out bypass hose. Water was not "colored" in any way as pellet instructions suggested it might be.

Conclusion so far: product is 100% "on top" of pump which is stuck/sealed either by rust or sand.
I have lots of Ph test capability because I have a swimming pool. I am guessing running the pump
is not agitating what is under it and I am waiting for some "trickle" from "above" to get under through whatever is there...so I will "keep checking the well water for ph"?

Any speculation is welcomed.

 

[ChiefEngineer]

If your pump is stuck in sand, a big engine driven compressor sending air down via 3/4 or 1 inch PVC can blow sand out.

"If" is what I am stuck with. The well guy I was referred to by another who couldn't manually budge the pump told me a camera would be of no use. Are you aware of a method by which I discern between a pump swollen from overheating rusted to a casing, and one that is stuck in sand? So far I have lowered a probe
to determine the water level...never hit the pump or anything solid.

 

[Reach4]

"If" is what I am stuck with. The well guy I was referred to by another who couldn't manually budge the pump told me a camera would be of no use. Are you aware of a method by which I discern between a pump swollen from overheating rusted to a casing, and one that is stuck in sand? So far I have lowered a probe
to determine the water level...never hit the pump or anything solid.

I am not a pro. I have never pulled a pump.
I looked back at your https://terrylove.com/forums/index.php?threads/method-to-unstick-pump.102671/ thread.

So explain "So far I have lowered a probe to determine the water level...never hit the pump or anything solid."

It sounds like you are saying your "probe" was short and reached neither sand nor pump.

How far down is the static water level?

 

[ChiefEngineer]

How far down is the static water level?

Can't say for sure. At the time I was restricted by the well cap's intransigence. After a number of days of no use and average rain I measured the top water level right at 100 ft. (with a string bobber). I am guessing I have 30 feet or so of water to the bottom (from there). The pump is "somewhere" in between. The one well guy who couldn't budge it made a comment about people who "put a pump at the bottom of a well" like that is what he suspected for whatever reason--after he said "he twisted the pipe" (by feel). I am now guessing the acid has made it all the way around whatever restriction may or may not be present. I pumped this jar of water out (see pic): it is either rust or acid staining according to the label-timeline. I can tell you it has a Ph of 6.8 which is not really acidic like I might suspect. Something is happening because the impeller sound churns differently. I have run the pump a number times for a minute or two to agitate the brew according to instructions.

​

 

[Reach4]

That is something.

You could consider cartridge-filtering, and recirculating the water back down the well. That is going to dissolve your pellets. And that would be while maintaining strong tension on that drop pipe.

If you do get a new well drilled, consider putting in a pitless adapter, even if they are uncommon in your area.

And your static water level appears to be too low for an air lift pump. The faster big compressor method is still open.

 

[Valveman]

If the pump is stuck at 100' and your static water level is 30', there is plenty of water to set a pump above the stuck one. Just need to get the wire and pipe out of the way.

 

[ChiefEngineer]

If the pump is stuck at 100' and your static water level is 30', there is plenty of water to set a pump above the stuck one. Just need to get the wire and pipe out of the way.

I must have mis-spoke...I meant to say if the static water level is the distance from the grounds surface to where the top of the water sits in the well, THAT is 100ft...and from there I have 30 ft of presumed water. If my water table was 30 feet down I would be jumping for joy and digging like a dog.

 

[Valveman]

You can probably make it work if you can get the pump under 10' or so of water.