Help with PVC to CI connection

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mgb2

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I've used Fernco 2" x 1 1/2" donuts before to connect PVC sink drains into my CI stack, replacing the poorly sloped lead lines. Armed with this dangerous amount of knowledge, I proceeded to chisel out the lead pipe for the bathtub. The tub is out, so I figured I should take care of this while I'm at it.

Once I've got it cleaned out, I realize it looks a little large. Indeed, the 2" donut fits inside with plenty of slop.

The CI has two closet connections, plus two fittings that service a shower and the tub. The closet connections have bells that are clearly labeled SV. The other two fittings don't have a bell as such, and are not labeled. Measuring the opening, it's about 3 1/8" ID, and 3 3/4" OD.

Do I just need to get a XH-sized donut, or ?

I've attached a pic. You can clearly see the SV marking on the closet hub. The part I'm trying to work with has the plastic bags stuffed in it.

2013-05-25 20.59.08-sm.jpg
 

Jadnashua

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While I'm not a pro, that certainly looks like someone has already broken off the hub on that arm. I'm not sure what will work on that, but without a hub, certainly not a donut. You may be able to use a no-hub or a banded coupler. You'd have to check the nominal OD of 3" cast iron. www.fernco.com and look at their proflex fittings.
 

mgb2

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I was wondering if they had done something like that. I can't see any obvious signs that they did, but then it's had 40+ years to age. Unfortunately, a 3" no-hub is just bit too small, and a 4" is way too big.

At this point, and I best off to get a manhoff PVC fitting and use oakum and one of the non-lead sealers?
 

Jadnashua

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http://www.fernco.com/plumbing/flexible-couplings/corrugated-pipe-series The first fitting in the list may work, but you'd probably want to buy a banded coupling and use the shield to keep thing aligned. It may not meet code (it won't without a band) without a shield, but other than replacing the fitting, I'm not sure how you'd fix that...the arm beneath the hub isn't a 'normal' size. As long as it is as large as the pipe that fits into the bell or hub, it really doesn't matter - it only matters in the main part of the fitting as to whether it is a 3", 4", or whatever. I think a typical 3" pipe in CI would be about 3.5", and this seems about 0.25" bigger. The rubber will stretch some, but you may have to take the band off first, then reinstall it. A pro would have a better take on this.
 

Terry

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If the outside is about 4", I would use a 4" "copper" by 4" No-Hub coupling. Then you can bush down the No-Hub side as needed.
 

mgb2

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Wow...I've had lots of other projects before coming back to this one. I finally got a chance to try what Terry suggested, but unfortunately the outside is smaller than 4" copper. Open to any other suggestions.
 

Terry

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Wow...I've had lots of other projects before coming back to this one. I finally got a chance to try what Terry suggested, but unfortunately the outside is smaller than 4" copper. Open to any other suggestions.

You may need to snap out that entire fitting if the hub isn't workable. It looks like you have room there.
 

mgb2

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So replace the entire wye? It's got two closets, a shower, and the tub going into it. Is that going to be more cost effective than getting someone to caulk in a new ferrule?
 
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