Fleck 5810 settings

[Jeremy14]

Hi, we recently bought a Fleck 5810 sxt and I am not sure about the settings on it.

These are the data for our water:
Hardness: 805 mg/L
PH : 7.34
Calcium: 251 mg/L
Iron: 1.82 mg/L
Magnesium : 43.2 mg/L
Manganese: 0.0520 mg/L
Sodium : 127 mg/L

As you can see our Iron is very high so they made us buy a Katalox Light 1 cubic feet filter. Problem is that even after both machines do their backwash the water around the house is still full of iron... We can't figure out whats wrong

Here are the settings for the Katalox:
DF: GAL
VT 5810
RF: 0-df
CT: fd
C: 24.0 x 1000
H: 20
RS: rc
RC: 0
DO: 3
RT: 2:00
BW: c1 =10
RR: C2= 12
LC: C3
FM: t 1.2
RE: off
VR: off

Now the water softener is a 1.5 cubic feet
DF: Gal
Vt: 5810
Rf: df2b
Ct: fd
C: 24.0 x 1000
H: 45
Rs: rc
Rc: 0
Do: 5
Rt: 3:30
B1: 10
BD: 60
B2: 8
RR: 10
BF: 20
Fm: t 1.2
Re: off
Vr: off

Let me know if anything seems weird
Thanks !
Jeremy

 

[Reach4]

Let's start with the KL filter.

1. What is the backwash rate? That is determined by the DLFC. You may want to look at that inside to confirm, but what does the label on the controller? Alternatively, do a backwash with the drain line playing into a 5 gallon bucket. How long does it take to fill that bucket?
2. What is the diameter of that tank? Would that be 9 inches?

It may be that you will need some addition to your KL system to provide extra oxidation. I am looking to confirm that your backwash rate is suitable.

Also, just to make sure, the KL is first, and that feeds the softener, right?

I expect that the softener tank is 10 inch diameter.
What is the BLFC number for that? I am guessing that is 0.25 but at least check the label.

If it is 0.25, your salt setting is 10 pounds per cubic ft -- high. If it is 0.125, your current setting is 5 pounds per cubic ft of resin, which is very lean.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Jeremy14]

Let's start with the KL filter.

1. What is the backwash rate? That is determined by the DLFC. You may want to look at that inside to confirm, but what does the label on the controller? Alternatively, do a backwash with the drain line playing into a 5 gallon bucket. How long does it take to fill that bucket?
2. What is the diameter of that tank? Would that be 9 inches?

It may be that you will need some addition to your KL system to provide extra oxidation. I am looking to confirm that your backwash rate is suitable.

Also, just to make sure, the KL is first, and that feeds the softener, right?

I expect that the softener tank is 10 inch diameter.
What is the BLFC number for that? I am guessing that is 0.25 but at least check the label.

If it is 0.25, your salt setting is 10 pounds per cubic ft -- high. If it is 0.125, your current setting is 5 pounds per cubic ft of resin, which is very lean.

KL system is first and it feeds the softener, blfc is 0.25 GPM
Softener is also 0.25 GPM

I could not find the DLFC and I don't have any buckets to test it
Both bottles are 10 inch

 

[Jeremy14]

Is it normal that the softener does the brine fill at the end of its cycle ? Should it not be at the start ?

 

[Reach4]

I could not find the DLFC and I don't have any buckets to test it

At time 5:04 in this video, they remove the drain line elbow. The DLFC is in the bottom of that.

This photo shows the bottom of what you pull out when you unclip. What you want is the number where the 400 is in the photo below. You might see a 700. That would be 7 gpm. I would hope for more.

If the unit is in service, logic says there will not be pressure on that assembly.

Just to be clear, I am interested in the KL unit. The number on the softener would expected be 240, which would be 2.4 gpm.

 

[Jeremy14]

At time 5:04 in this video, they remove the drain line elbow. The DLFC is in the bottom of that.

This photo shows the bottom of what you pull out when you unclip. What you want is the number where the 400 is in the photo below. You might see a 700. That would be 7 gpm. I would hope for more.

If the unit is in service, logic says there will not be pressure on that assembly.

Just to be clear, I am interested in the KL unit. The number on the softener would expected be 240, which would be 2.4 gpm.

Softener is 2.4 gpm just looked on the bill

 

[Jeremy14]

Just did a backwash and there is an error that just poped up right after the brine draw could that be our problem ?

Edit: also an error during b2

Seems like the water level in the brine tank never went down during the brine draw..

Edit 2:
Brine fill now and no water going into the brine tank. There's our problem no water gets to and from our brine tank. I wonder if its a mechanical problem or something in the computer I'm contacting our seller tomorow to have a technician look at it I'll keep you updated

 

[Reach4]

Good idea. Did the error message have a number that maybe alternates with the time?

Also, I have to ask. Did you maybe have the unit in bypass? Doubt it, but check anyway.

I would still look at the DLFC value for the KL filter.

 

[Jeremy14]

Good idea. Did the error message have a number that maybe alternates with the time?

Also, I have to ask. Did you maybe have the unit in bypass? Doubt it, but check anyway.

I would still look at the DLFC value for the KL filter.

No number with the error message, i will look for the dlfc value tomorow

Thanks !

 

[ditttohead]

A quick note regarding iron in the plumbing. You should have a test bib after the KL and after the softener so as to determine their performance. It is very normal to have iron in the house for weeks if not months after a water system is installed. Clean water inside of dirty pipes equals dirty water.

 

[WellOff]

^^^ As dittohead says. I would recommend that you shock your distribution lines: very few people do this. I have a separate filter housing (sans filter element) that I use for dispensing shocking liquids (it's post my final filter): I use H2O2 (which I also use as my treatment agent), but most would use bleach. Prime all lines and let sit for several hours (I try to get in at least 8hrs): with bleach you can tell that it's reached the end valve/faucet just from the smell; with H2O2 I add food coloring so I can see (as there is no smell).

And also as mentioned, have test bibs after every treatment/filtering device so that you can test whether the equipment is functioning (check water going in and then water going out).