Fleck 2510 SXT settings check?

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Allen Cronce

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Hi all,

I've replaced an ancient Culligan Premier (circa 1998) with a Fleck 2510 STX. I've got the new unit installed, but have not fired it up yet. The master settings are a bit daunting.

I think I've figured most of it out but would like a double check before I start it up. Here's a summary of my set up. Hopefully this is relevant and complete enough:
  • Fleck 2510 SXT with 1" connections
  • 2.5 sf resin
  • Resin tank size about 12" by 54"
  • 25 GPM | 88,000 Grains (as per the company I bought the kit from)
  • BLFC 1 gallon per minute (3 lbs)
We're in San Jose, CA which has hard water. A friend of mine a couple miles away has his softener set to 25 GPG. Searching online indicates that we're about 320 PPM here, which would be more like 19 GPG. I probably should get a test kit to be sure ;-)

It's a large house. We've got 4 adults living here. But several times a year (when it's not a pandemic) we boost up to 8-ish people with guests.

Here's what I've currently specified for the master settings:
  • DF: Gal
  • VT: dF1b
  • CT: Fd
  • NT: 1
  • C: 88
  • H: 25
  • RS: SF
  • SF: 15
  • DO: 14
  • RT: 2:00
  • BW 10
  • BD: 60
  • RR: 10
  • BF: 19
  • FM t0.7
Note that while everything is installed and programmed, I've left the unit in bypass mode. I haven't filled the tank yet. It would be great to get some feedback on the settings before I turn it on.

Also, I'm a bit unclear as to the start up procedure. I think what I'm supposed to do is something like this:
  • Press and hold the cycle button until I see "BW -- -- --" to allow air to escape.
  • Move the bypass valve to the "B" letter in "Bypass" to let water slowly fill.
  • Turn the valve to "Service" when the tank is full, but with a black fiberglass tank I'm not sure how to tell. Maybe I'll see some backwash (that tube is clear).
Sorry for being a noob. Thanks so much for any advice.
 

Reach4

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  • Turn the valve to "Service" when the tank is full, but with a black fiberglass tank I'm not sure how to tell. Maybe I'll see some backwash (that tube is clear).
I think the flow will be quieter, and you will open a faucet a bit. There will be air for a while, and then the air will be gone.

Resin tank size about 12" by 54"
Probably 13 x 54
 

Bannerman

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Hardness will need to be tested at your location. Assuming your water source is municipal, municipal water is typically obtained from multiple sources, and hardness often differs from each source. The usual recommended test method is a Hach 5B Total Hardness test kit.

If the water is obtained from your own well, a lab test should be performed to identify not only hardness but also other elements such as iron and manganese that will also consume softening capacity.

If the softener's hardness setting is lower than the actual hardness of the water, then more softener capacity will be consumed than will be regenerated and you will find after several cycles that the water will become hard again before regeneration occurs. If the hardness setting is higher than the actual water hardness, then regeneration will occur sooner than needed, resulting in higher salt and water consumption.

  • 2.5 sf resin
  • Resin tank size about 12" by 54"
  • 25 GPM | 88,000 Grains (as per the company I bought the kit from)
A 12" X 52" tank is appropriate for 2 cubic feet of resin, not 2.5 cuft (ft3). The usual tank size utilized for 2.5 ft3 is 13". If there is too much resin in the tank. there will be insufficient vacant space remaining to sufficiently lift, expand and reclassify the resin during the backwash phase of regeneration and so resin will likely be expelled to drain during each backwash cycle.

Most resin has 32,000 grains total capacity per cubic foot when manufactured and so 2.5 ft3 resin should then have 80,000 grains total capacity. Regenerating 100% of the resin's capacity will require a large and inefficient amount of salt each regeneration cycle ( 50 lbs for 2.5 ft3 of resin). To increase efficiency and improve performance, a lower capacity setting is recommended which will require significantly less salt each cycle.

Anticipating your softener tank size is actually 13" containing 2.5 ft3 resin, the recommended Capacity setting will then be 60,000 grains (C:60) which will require only 20 lbs salt for regeneration. (60,000 / 20 = 3,000 gr/lb Hardness Reduction Efficiency)

Each gallon of water entering the brine tank will dissolve 3 lbs salt so to program 20 lbs will require reducing the Brine Fill setting to 6.67 minutes from the current 19 minutes. (1GPM BLFC X 6.67 minutes BF = 6.67 gallons X 3 lbs per = 20 lbs). As you likely cannot program 6.67 minutes, you will need to round up to 7 minutes BF.

The recommended startup procedure will involve shutting off the home's incoming main water valve or the bypass valve, advance the softener to BackWash and then open the incoming water valve only slightly so the incoming flow will slowly fill the softener tank and push air out to drain without the air also lifting the resin. The slow flow will fully fill the resin tank with water but once water is flowing to drain constantly with no further air, the main valve can then be closed and the control valve returned manually to the 'Service' position and the incoming water valve reopened fully so as to deliver softened water to the home's plumbing.

Because the softener will refill the brine tank at the end of each regen cycle, water will need to be manually added to the brine tank initially. Since it is recommended to sanitize a new softener and brine tank initially; before adding salt, add 5 gallons water and 1/8 to 1/4 cup unscented household bleach to the brine tank. Swab the brine tank interior with the chlorine solution and then perform a manual regeneration to draw the solution through the softener. At the conclusion of that cycle, the programmed amount of fresh water will have entered the brine tank during BF so you may then add salt until the tank is filled to the top with salt if desired.
 
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Reach4

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BLFC 1 gallon per minute (3 lbs)
That is unusually high. Check again. It is more common that your BLFC number would be 0.5 or 0.25.

Since you cited "3 lb" along with the 1 gallon per minute, that suggests you actually have a red-colored sticker, and in that case, checking again would not help. You might have a chat with the dealer. You might actually look at the marking on the rubber button. See https://terrylove.com/forums/index....-fleck-7000-and-sanitizing.47960/#post-351876 #2. Click on the photo to expand it. I expect a 1 gpm BLFC would say 100 opposite the F.
 
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Allen Cronce

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Hardness will need to be tested at your location. Assuming your water source is municipal, municipal water is typically obtained from multiple sources, and hardness often differs from each source. The usual recommended test method is a Hach 5B Total Hardness test kit.

If the water is obtained from your own well, a lab test should be performed to identify not only hardness but also other elements such as iron and manganese that will also consume softening capacity.

If the softener's hardness setting is lower than the actual hardness of the water, then more softener capacity will be consumed than will be regenerated and you will find after several cycles that the water will become hard again before regeneration occurs. If the hardness setting is higher than the actual water hardness, then regeneration will occur sooner than needed, resulting in higher salt and water consumption.

Thanks for the reply. It's city water I'll get that test kit and adjust the hardness setting as needed.

A 12" X 52" tank is appropriate for 2 cubic feet of resin, not 2.5 cuft (ft3). The usual tank size utilized for 2.5 ft3 is 13". If there is too much resin in the tank. there will be insufficient vacant space remaining to sufficiently lift, expand and reclassify the resin during the backwash phase of regeneration and so resin will likely be expelled to drain during each backwash cycle.

It probably is 13". It's hard for me to measure. I'll keep an eye out to see if any resin is expelled.

Most resin has 32,000 grains total capacity per cubic foot when manufactured and so 2.5 ft3 resin should then have 80,000 grains total capacity. Regenerating 100% of the resin's capacity will require a large and inefficient amount of salt each regeneration cycle ( 50 lbs for 2.5 ft3 of resin). To increase efficiency and improve performance, a lower capacity setting is recommended which will require significantly less salt each cycle.

Anticipating your softener tank size is actually 13" containing 2.5 ft3 resin, the recommended Capacity setting will then be 60,000 grains (C:60) which will require only 20 lbs salt for regeneration. (60,000 / 20 = 3,000 gr/lb Hardness Reduction Efficiency)

Thanks! I'll set it to 60 rather than the total capacity.

Each gallon of water entering the brine tank will dissolve 3 lbs salt so to program 20 lbs will require reducing the Brine Fill setting to 6.67 minutes from the current 19 minutes. (1GPM BLFC X 6.67 minutes BF = 6.67 gallons X 3 lbs per = 20 lbs). As you likely cannot program 6.67 minutes, you will need to round up to 7 minutes BF.

Thanks for catching this. I saw the 19 minute value on line and thought it seemed high. I'll set it to 7 minutes.

The recommended startup procedure will involve shutting off the home's incoming main water valve or the bypass valve, advance the softener to BackWash and then open the incoming water valve only slightly so the incoming flow will slowly fill the softener tank and push air out to drain without the air also lifting the resin. The slow flow will fully fill the resin tank with water but once water is flowing to drain constantly with no further air, the main valve can then be closed and the control valve returned manually to the 'Service' position and the incoming water valve reopened fully so as to deliver softened water to the home's plumbing.

How do I close the main valve? Is it possible to stop the manual backwash cycle?

Because the softener will refill the brine tank at the end of each regen cycle, water will need to be manually added to the brine tank initially. Since it is recommended to sanitize a new softener and brine tank initially; before adding salt, add 5 gallons water and 1/8 to 1/4 cup unscented household bleach to the brine tank. Swab the brine tank interior with the chlorine solution and then perform a manual regeneration to draw the solution through the softener. At the conclusion of that cycle, the programmed amount of fresh water will have entered the brine tank during BF so you may then add salt until the tank is filled to the top with salt if desired.

I did not know about this. I've already added salt to the brine tank (about half way up). I guess I can try removing the salt and going through the sanitation phase.
 

Allen Cronce

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That is unusually high. Check again. It is more common that your BLFC number would be 0.5 or 0.25.

Since you cited "3 lb" along with the 1 gallon per minute, that suggests you actually have a red-colored sticker, and in that case, checking again would not help. You might have a chat with the dealer. You might actually look at the marking on the rubber button.

The part number is FL60010-100, which is rated at 1 GPM. It is a red-colored sticker.

I've already assembled it so I can't get to the rubber button without taking it apart.
 

Reach4

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This is what I would do for a 5810SXT followed by what I would do for a 5600SXT. I have not set up the programming for a 2510 SXT, but I may do that. Your controls may be closer to the 5600SXT. Anyway the table at the bottom could still be of use.

System info (not programmed)

salt lb/cuft : 7.2 ; A choice ( efficiency vs capacity)
BLFC : 1 ; Brine Refill rate GPM
cubic ft resin : 2.5 ; Same as (nominal grains/32,000)
Raw hardness : 19 ; including iron etc
Estimated gal/day ; 240 ; 60 gal per person prediction (auto-tunes)
Est days/regen ; 11.13 ; presuming days each use estimated

Fleck 5810SXT Settings:
DF = Gal ; Units
VT = 5810 ; Valve type
RF = dF2b ; Downflow, Double Backwash
CT = Fd ; Meter Delayed regen trigger
C = 56.1 ; capacity in 1000 grains
H = 21 ; Hardness grains after comp factor
RS = cr ; Cr = base reserve on recent experience
DO = 30 ; Day Override (typ 30 if no iron/Mn)
RT = 2:00 ; Regen time (default 2 AM)
B1 = 5 ; Backwash 1 (minutes) [3...10]
Bd = 60 ; Brine draw minutes
B2 = 4 ; Backwash 2 (minutes)[3...10]
RR = 6 ; Rapid Rinse minutes
BF = 6 ; Brine fill minutes
FM = t1.2 (usual) ; t1.2 is default flow meter
RE = OFF ; Relay
VR = OFF ; ?

===========================================
Here is what I would do for a 5600SXT, which may program close to your 2510SXT
System info (not programmed)
salt lb/cuft = 7.2 ; A choice ( efficiency vs capacity)
BLFC = 1 ; Brine Refill rate GPM
cubic ft resin = 2.5 ; ft3 resin = (nominal grains)/32,000
Compensated hardness = 21 ; including any compensation
People = 4 ; gallons affects reserve calc
Estimated gal/day = 240 ; 60 gal per person typical calc
Estimated days/regen = 10.93 ; Computed days including reserve

Fleck 5600SXT Settings:
DF = Gal ; Units
VT = dF1b ; Downflw/, Single Backwash, black cam
CT = Fd ; Meter Delayed regen trigger
NT = 1 ; Number of tanks
C = 57 ; capacity in 1000 grains
H = 21 ; Hardness-- compensate if needed
RS = rc ; rc says use gallons vs percent
RC = 240 ; Reserve capacity gallons
DO = 30 ; Day Override (28 if no iron)
RT = 2:00 ; Regen time (default 2 AM)
BW = 5 ; Backwash (minutes)
Bd = 60 ; Brine draw minutes
RR = 5 ; Rapid Rinse minutes
BF = 6 ; Brine fill minutes
FM = ____0.7 ; https://terrylove.com/forums/index.php?attachments/img_fleck5600sxt_flow-png.31592/


========================================

The less salt per cubic ft, the more salt efficient, but more hardness breakthrough.
Revised based on number from https://terrylove.com/forums/index.php?threads/help-for-programming-fleck-5810.82673/#post-595983

BLFC = 1
cubic ft resin = 2.5

Alternative C and BF pairs:
lb/cuft ; C= ; BF=
4.800 ; 46.7 ; 4 #What California would be happier with
6.000 ; 52.5 ; 5 # Salt efficient with good softness
7.200 ; 57.3 ; 6 #Shown above
8.400 ; 61.2 ; 7 #A good choice
9.600 ; 64.5 ; 8 #Silkier water
10.800 ; 67.3 ; 9
12.000 ; 69.7 ; 10 #Softer still, but using more salt.
 
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Bannerman

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Adding the chlorine solution while the salt is already in the tank will not hurt anything, but makes it difficult to sanitize the tank walls. When adding liquid to a brine tank containing salt, add the liquid into the brine well (4" diameter tube) to prevent the dry salt above the liquid level dry.

Softener's are assembled from various components, each of which maybe handled by numerous people. As a softener will usually condition a family's drinking water, best to sanitize everything that will be in contact with the softened water. Since your water supply is municipal, the incoming water will be chlorinated so unless you remove the chlorine/chloramine prior to the softener, the sanitation step will be less critical.
 
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