Chlorinated Injector + Retention Tank suggestions

[WellDigger]

Hi all. Well, seems there is one last piece to the puzzle I need to address, for now. From what I want to do and what I will need, it seems it would be a wise choice to go from a large ( 100 gallon) pressure tank to a 50g press tank and a 50 gallon retention tank. I have the filter setup worked out and I like the idea of adding a chlorine injection pump, along with the retention tank, just to make sure no bacteria can make it out alive. I have searched google for the past 4 hours and can not find much on parts and install experience with this setup, just a bunch of ads and sales pitches, if anything.

So, I come to you all and ask, what is the easiest non back flush, preferably no media, baffled tank setup with a bottom drain, and, preferred peristaltic pump setup out there? If it saves money, I dont mind putting it together myself. Just looking for a down n dirty cheap chlorination injection system, for now.

Thanks

 

[Valveman]

Have you had your water tested? Chlorine is toxic and you don't want to add it if you don't have too. It is also caustic and will corrode your pressure tank, fittings, and everything else it comes in contact with. If your well is tested clean and has a good well seal, it is safe to drink without any treatment. Oh, and I think you are wasting 50 gallons of storage space with the 50 gal pressure tank. But no sales pitch. Lol!

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Reach4]

In looking for a contact tank, add "baffle factor" as a search term.

For chlorine injection, one way is to remove the residual chlorine after the tank with a GAC tank. Another way is to finely set the injection rate so there is a minimal amount of residual chlorine left. That second way is not common.

Also, hydrogen peroxide (H3O2) may do better for you. It does really well at iron removal. Chlorine does better at killing bacteria.

I am also of the opinion that if you sanitize your well well, expect no disease-causing bacteria to come in.

For injection, there are two main ways. The simpler way is to inject a fixed rate when the pump runs. For that one, the injection is before the pressure tank. The better way is to have a flow meter after the pressure tank, and to inject after the pressure tank using a proportional pump. One big advantage to that better method is that the sediment is produced at the contact tank rather than in the pressure tank.

 

[WellDigger]

The main reason for the chlorine is for rust and other solids with bacteria kill as a side bonus. I know there is some iron in the system from orange coloration on the fixtures when I moved in, so, chlorine might not be a bad thing. It didnt look horrible, but, I want to have a marble shower and any discoloration will be a no no.

I was reading baffle tanks are quite impressive, per their size, just looking for a decent brand.

I dont use a lot of water, but for my shower, so, most of it will sit in the contact tank for a good 20 hours, thus, not needing a whole lot of chlorine, one would not think.

I already plan to get a contact tank, mainly for storage, so, the only really added expense would be the pump and chlorine tank. If this idea doesnt pan out so well, no hard feelings yanking the injection pump, just wondering what pumps have been proven dependable.

 

[Valveman]

I have used ChemTech pumps. They seem to work fairly well. Just sitting for hours or days is how water loses it Chlorine residual. Sometimes need more when it sits for long periods. Made a drawing with the retention tank and a 12V RV pump. Would just need to inject chlorine prior to the retention tank.

Changed the drawing. Can't have retention tank in line prior to the Cycle Stop Valve. After is better.

 

[Reach4]

For the contact tank, are you referring to storage that you access with a faucet at the bottom and not under pressure? Your water heater can do that.

If you want to be able to complete your shower, I don't see that working.

Flexcon has that nice baffle factor.
Wellmate has a smaller baffle factor, but has that neat blowoff valve to dump sediment.

Click the envelope icon, above.

 

[WellDigger]

Thanks for the diagram. Gonna try to get the pump in the well this weekend. Need to do a WPM test and see where I am at before I get too far in.

Just sitting for hours or days is how water loses it Chlorine residual.

Even in a sealed system??

 

[WellDigger]

For the contact tank, are you referring to storage that you access with a faucet at the bottom and not under pressure? Your water heater can do that.

If you want to be able to complete your shower, I don't see that working.

Flexcon has that nice baffle factor.
Wellmate has a smaller baffle factor, but has that neat blowoff valve to dump sediment.

Click the envelope icon, above.

I am still not sure what I am going with. One idea was to have a seperate stand by tank with a valve and 1/8p jet pump (if they make them that small, tied in with some valves, to tie into the main system and use a small generator to get through 30 gallons for a shower.

Now were talking about a contact tank, maybe kill 2 birds with one stone? Dose for iron on normal operation and, when the power/well runs dry/goes out, flip the valves to use whats in the contact tank, like a holding tank.

I have come to the conclusion that there will be no free lunch here, I will have to give up some automation, somewhere.

 

[Reach4]

With some configurations, I am thinking an air compressor feeding into the contact tank could deliver water. But if the output is at the top, which is common, that would not work.

Also, regarding H2O2 vs chlorine, you can pretty much use the same equipment for each.

Stenner is the big name in peristaltic pumps.

 

[LLigetfa]

Obviously to get the water out of a retention tank, you need to get air into the tank otherwise you will just collapse it. Retention tanks offer a vacuum breaker for that reason.

My retention tank is below grade so gravity will not cause it to collapse. It does not have a vacuum breaker.