Capping angle stops temporarily without damaging them?

[TheOverThinker]

I need to cap off two angle stops "temporarily". They need to be rendered unusable for permit purposes, then later restored.

What's the proper cap to ask for a plumbing supply house, for those compression fittings? I'd prefer to leave the angle stops in place, and cap the outlet side.

 

[Mliu]

Compression Cap

 

[Sponsor]

 

[TheOverThinker]

Compression Cap

Thank you, got compression caps, used them. They leaked bad (the angle stop can't hold the pressure).
I added Teflon tape and got the leak down to a slow dribble.

Is there a rubber O ring version of those I could ask for?

 

[Mliu]

Thank you, got compression caps, used them. They leaked bad (the angle stop can't hold the pressure).
I added Teflon tape and got the leak down to a slow dribble.

Is there a rubber O ring version of those I could ask for?

The angle stop itself should shut off all water with no leaks. If the angle stop is leaking, then it needs to be replaced. Most contractors install the cheapest possible valves and fixtures because they only have to work long enough for the house to sell.

I would never install anything less than a Brasscraft G2CR19X, which is a decent 1/4 turn angle stop for residential applications. For commercial applications (or higher-end homes), then I recommend the Brasscraft KTCR19X-C.

The compression cap is just supposed to be a safety device to close off the angle stop outlet while the risers are removed. They should seal by the internal bevel of the brass compressing against the outlet of the angle stop; they do NOT seal by the threads. However, if the outlet of your angle stops are dinged up or corroded, then the compression cap will not seal. You could get a small flat rubber washer to put inside the cap, and I've seen some compression caps sold with this washer installed. But ultimately, you should not be relying on the cap to stop the water. You should be relying on your angle stop being properly shut off.

 

[Reach4]

See https://terrylove.com/forums/index.php?threads/seal-compression-cap.17899/

 

[John Gayewski]

A compression cap needs to go onto a piece of pipe with a ferrule to actually. Otherwise they do make a little piece that will go with a compression cap. Or you can cut a washer.

 

[LLigetfa]

Is there a rubber O ring version of those I could ask for?

Maybe try inserting a beveled faucet washer.

Another option is to use a short length of soft copper supply pipe, crimp shut and solder one end.

 

[Sylvan]

1. Replace the valve with an

Eastman Multi-Turn Angle Stop Valve with Brass Stem- FIP x 3/8 in. OD Comp
as I like BRASS stems not CHEAP plastic

I do not understand why any plumber would use a different type of valve for commercial or residential or industrial or any other application

The exposure to a law suit is the same so why CHEAT on quality?

 

[LLigetfa]

I like BRASS stems not CHEAP plastic

I cringe every time I try turning off a cheap plastic stem stop and it "winds up" about a quarter turn before it moves.

The OP needs the water to be capped off even if the stop is turned on in a way that the modification is reversible.

 

[Jeff H Young]

What I use to cap is a braided supply then I screw a 1/2 plug on end or a nipple and cap, on hand and easy nothing to buy or carry

 

[Sylvan]

I cringe every time I try turning off a cheap plastic stem stop and it "winds up" about a quarter turn before it moves.

The OP needs the water to be capped off even if the stop is turned on in a way that the modification is reversible.

I have a lot of high rise accounts for over 32 years https://www.riverpointtowers.com/


and the Empire state building where we installed a sprinkler system on the 86th floor

Look how much an apartment goes for and I did a lot of work here a leak IS NOT AN OPTION

https://www.cityrealty.com/nyc/beekman-sutton-place/the-sovereign-425-east-58th-street/5107

Knowing the static pressure and also knowing the liability when working on these high structures why would anyone even consider a plastic stem?

Most of the one family houses we work for are over 5 million dollars each and why take a chance using some cheap imported valve to save a little money?

I think it is odd hearing "I do commercial work " or I do residential work and use different materials

All my drainage piping whether it is commercial, residential, industrial or institutional is domestic cast iron piping for vent and waste and type L tubing for water supply above ground and K tubing for underground .

Even the heating systems we use L tubing for hydronics and schedule 40 black steel for steam and stand pipes

I found it cheaper and easier to stock my vans with materials I can use an any application

Acid and chemical waste systems we order materials as needed


I not only work here I live here so I better make sure there are no call backs as your only as good as your last job

https://www.point2homes.com/US/Luxury-Real-Estate/NY/New-York-City/Bronx/Riverdale.html

 

[TheOverThinker]

I cringe every time I try turning off a cheap plastic stem stop and it "winds up" about a quarter turn before it moves.

The OP needs the water to be capped off even if the stop is turned on in a way that the modification is reversible.

My end solution was... much like that.
After installing a master shutoff for the building (it had none),

I removed the old leaky plastic stem stop and installed a quarter turn metal one recycling the same nut and compression ring. This saved using a compression ring removal tool which I did not have.

This was dramatically easy.
I then smashed the old plastic stem stop with a hammer, thus sparking joy.