Broken brass bathroom sink tailpiece

[NL223]

I broke the brass tailpiece off in my bathroom while trying to take it apart to unclog it. Can I have a new tailpiece welded to where it snapped or use a coupling to connect them? I'm hoping to avoid having to rip up the floor and ceiling downstairs.

 

[Kreemoweet]

"Tailpiece" refers to the tubular drain that is attached to the bottom of a sink, not anything that goes
into a wall or floor. Is that a photo of a pipe remnant in a wall? There will be no welding or joining to THAT!
Generally speaking, any steel drain piping should have been replaced many decades ago. It may be possible,
after the wall is opened, to connect to the old piping with a flexible rubber coupling. Just as an emergency
measure, of course.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Breplum]

will have to open one side or the other of that wall assembly.

 

[NL223]

Thanks, yes that photo is a through pipe going into the floor/downstairs ceiling. Would a no hub coupling hold to connect them?

"Tailpiece" refers to the tubular drain that is attached to the bottom of a sink, not anything that goes
into a wall or floor. Is that a photo of a pipe remnant in a wall? There will be no welding or joining to THAT!
Generally speaking, any steel drain piping should have been replaced many decades ago. It may be possible,
after the wall is opened, to connect to the old piping with a flexible rubber coupling. Just as an emergency
measure, of course.

 

[NL223]

A friend also suggested exposing more of that pipe then reattaching the tailpiece by pouring steel around it. He said it looked like it was originally attached that way. I am just looking for anything to avoid expenses of ripping up bathroom floor right now.

 

[NL223]

will have to open one side or the other of that wall assembly.

Would I have to replace the whole pipe of can I rejoin it?

 

[NL223]

Here are pictures of the tailpiece and the bottom where it broke off to connect to the ground.

 

[Reach4]

See if the part that remains in the floor, and the piece removed, are attracted to a magnet. If not, they are not steel.

I suspect that the pipe down the hole could be lead. And the part broken off, brass.

So maybe somebody could solder new brass into lead. I am not a plumber. Maybe, if the dimensions are right, I would consider using a glue, such as epoxy, to insert new brass into lead, as an expedient.

Also, what you had before was probably an S-trap. Those are no longer allowed, because they can siphon out if you don't finish your water draining in the lavatory with a low flow.

 

[NL223]

See if the part that remains in the floor, and the piece removed, are attracted to a magnet. If not, they are not steel.

I suspect that the pipe down the hole could be lead. And the part broken off, brass.

So maybe somebody could solder new brass into lead. I am not a plumber. Maybe, if the dimensions are right, I would consider using a glue, such as epoxy, to insert new brass into lead, as an expedient.

Also, what you had before was probably an S-trap. Those are no longer allowed, because they can siphon out if you don't finish your water draining in the lavatory with a low flow.

Thanks I tried the magnet and neither pipes are steel.

 

[Reach4]

So I think your next steps are to measure the ID of that lead at the floor. Readily available brass drain tubing is 1.25 and 1.50 inches OD.

So if it were me, I might put in brass tubing. Then you can connect to that brass tubing with more brass, or plastic. The connections are called "slip joint". Brass slip-joint tubing is often chrome-plated. Some brass tubing has a thicker wall than others. The OD is the same for the heavier pieces.

An AAV could be worked in to avoid trap siphoning. I suspect that Philadelphia, unlike most of Pennsylvania, may not like AAVs. For all I know, they are OK with S-traps, but I doubt it. So will you adopt an expedient that does not conform to code?

 

[NL223]

"Tailpiece" refers to the tubular drain that is attached to the bottom of a sink, not anything that goes
into a wall or floor. Is that a photo of a pipe remnant in a wall? There will be no welding or joining to THAT!
Generally speaking, any steel drain piping should have been replaced many decades ago. It may be possible,
after the wall is opened, to connect to the old piping with a flexible rubber coupling. Just as an emergency
measure, of course.

I found out the pipe is not steel, probably lead. Can I use a rubber coupling if I did around it more.to expose more of the drain pipe?

 

[Jeff H Young]

You can cut it then put a no hub band (below floor) to adapt to either IPS or tubular . Straps do suck I'd rather add a AAV then use an s trap

 

[NL223]

You can cut it then put a no hub band (below floor) to adapt to either IPS or tubular . Straps do suck I'd rather add a AAV then use an s trap

Is there any fix where I won't have to rip up the floor?