Abandoned gravel well - want to use for irrigation

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SebMA

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Hello, everyone. I read many pages so far this evening and would like to begin with some questions for guidance please. I have lived at my home for 3 years and I was told that there is a gravel well on my property. I have begun doing research this year to hopefully use the well to irrigate my lawn. I will tell you a bit about my property and the well casing and setup and hope you can advise me of next steps. Thank you.

1. The casing is cast iron and I was told comes in 20' runs. My particular well-point sticks out of the ground about 16" and has a threaded cap on it. I'll post a photo. I dug a hole on the side of the well that points to my foundation because the pro said it would be necessary. It exposed a pipe about four feet and 6"' down which would seem to be just lower than the water line I discovered. There, what seems to be a 2.5" splits from the well casing and goes straight into the house where it is abandoned and just sits flush into the foundation. The remainder of the pipe was rotted and remains on the floor.

Now that I think of it I don't really understand why he would need access to this pipe...

2. There is water when I measure 4.5' down from the cap of the well.

3. There is an obstruction at about 11' down where my tape stops when I try to stick something down. The professional also noted the same obstruction and thinks it's metal (perhaps old pump). But does not know. I commented to pump what was atop and hopefully see what it was - but he said that's not how he would do it.

At this point, I am confused as to what to do. I may go out and rent a pump, but if I know I'm going to need a pump of some kind I rather buy the one I need so I'm not wasting money for just a yield test. And I understand how dumb that sounds, but I was told this well serviced the home for 50 years up to the 1990's and so I feel confident it will produce especially since it's full with water as I opened the cap...any advice would be much appreciated. But I suppose my main question is open for ANY advice, but also - should I buy a shallow well submersible pump or a shallow well jet pump? and if it's not a submersible pump, where does it go? in the basement?

Thanks again and I'm happy to be part of this community.
 

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Valveman

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If the casing is 4' or larger you can use a submersible. If it is smaller than 4" you will need a jet pump. From 11' you could use a trash pump or contractor pump, maybe a rental. But they pump way more water than needed. You can valve off the discharge or slow the gas engine down and see how much you can get from 11'. If the obstruction is not blocking the screen or the screen is not rusted shut you may have enough water to work using a jet pump. Not really enough submergence for a submersible.
 

SebMA

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If the casing is 4' or larger you can use a submersible. If it is smaller than 4" you will need a jet pump. From 11' you could use a trash pump or contractor pump, maybe a rental. But they pump way more water than needed. You can valve off the discharge or slow the gas engine down and see how much you can get from 11'. If the obstruction is not blocking the screen or the screen is not rusted shut you may have enough water to work using a jet pump. Not really enough submergence for a submersible.

That's a great tip - so basically pump with a sump or other style pump, see what the obstruction is and go from there? I am leaning toward jet pump if my depth is indeed 11' - but I will not know unless I expose. If there is indeed an old pump in there do you think hooking it and pulling is an option? If my well is indeed 30 years old since last used, how heavy may the pump be at it's heaviest??
 

SebMA

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just a photo of the dug out area if it helps anyone describe to me what I need to do. Is there a union or a join at that intersection down below that I may be able to loosen? Is there a coupler present typically?? it just looks like it's one piece, but it's probably not huh? I just can't tell it's so old...
 

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Reach4

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1. The casing is cast iron and I was told comes in 20' runs. My particular well-point sticks out of the ground about 16" and has a threaded cap on it.
What diameter is that capped casing?

just a photo of the dug out area if it helps anyone describe to me what I need to do.
How far down is that horizontal pipe?

There, what seems to be a 2.5" splits from the well casing and goes straight into the house where it is abandoned and just sits flush into the foundation.
Are you saying that you think that pipe you dug down to might be 2.5 inch diameter? That would mean your casing is pretty big.
 

SebMA

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What diameter is that capped casing?
I haven't measured but just shy of 1', maybe 10" in total.

How far down is that horizontal pipe?
the horizontal pipe is basically at the water line. I measured 4 feet 6" to the water line, so about that. and it's in my basement about 1' above the ground. i have concrete slab there.

Are you saying that you think that pipe you dug down to might be 2.5 inch diameter? That would mean your casing is pretty big.
Yes, 2.5" diameter, maybe even 3" - yes, that casing is BIG! Thanks for the help...

any advice on how to proceed from here-forward?
 

Reach4

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Seeing how much you can suck out with a suction pump sounded like a good plan.

Having a camera run down there would be good. That might see better after you do some pumping.
 

SebMA

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I just researched a Myers HJ100S pump that seems like it will be the perfect application for this...I'm gathering all the necessary research for when I find my obstruction. As I do this, is this a good 1HP or 3/4 shallow well pump I should be looking at? Good quality for $400??

Thanks, team.
 

SebMA

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I'm torn between a submersible pump and a jet pump for the irrigation. I decided I am going to do this setup myself, but just want to be certain with the capacity. I did a half hour test with a jet pump where the water level was at 4' before I started to pump and I drew to about 16.5' and was able to pump about 8-9GPM on the pump. Do I need to pump for a longer period of time or can I do a 1/2 HP submersible and just regulate it somehow so I'm only pulling 8-10 GPM so I can sustain a higher water level to cool the pump with? If I can regulate the pull, where in my 17' well would the regulator go? Above a check-valvle? Do I need more than 1 check valve?

Thank you.
 

LLigetfa

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If by irrigation you mean a sprinkler system, then you regulate the GPM by the size and number of heads in each zone.
 

WorthFlorida

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Irrigation pump is always best if the draw is not more than 20 feet down. Since it is not know how much the well can produce it is hard to determine the pump size. Irrigation pumps are generally 1, 1.5 or 2.o HP, 1 or 1.5 can be 120V OR 240V. The easiest way is if the pump input is 1.5 inch or 2", you place a PVC pipe inside the well casting of either size. Let it work like a straw and you must use a check valve before the pump. This is how it is done in Florida with a high water table.
 
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SebMA

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few more questions: If I do go submersible, do I need an air tank to accompany it? Are there good schematics out on the internet for this because I have not come across anything clear as yet. THank you.
 

LLigetfa

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The pump can be controlled by a sprinkler system instead of a pressure switch and not use any tank. Doing so does require the sprinkler system be tuned to match the pump curve.
 

WorthFlorida

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A submersible is good for irrigation and can be used but this well is unknown what the blockage might be and usually would use it when your past 25-30 feet deep. An irrigation well is relatively simple, easy to maintain and service. Very easy to replace just the motor if it ever fails. Any debris picked up by a jet pump could get plugged up. A jet pump uses a lot of energy pumping the same water down to the jet. An irrigation pump if it needs to be outside then it has to be winterized, (not needed in the southern states) or below grade and kept from freezing. It can be in a basement for an irrigation pump can pull water easily 100' feet or more horizontally. An irrigation 1 hp pump can easily pump 3300 gal per hour, a sub of the same size would and cost would be around 2000 GPH.
 

Valveman

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few more questions: If I do go submersible, do I need an air tank to accompany it? Are there good schematics out on the internet for this because I have not come across anything clear as yet. THank you.

If you can hook all your sprinkler zones to an irrigation controller with a pump start relay you won't need a pressure tank and pressure switch. If you want to use hose bibs or hydrants you will need a pressure tank/pressure switch to make the pump come on when a faucet is open. When using a pressure tank system, every zone needs to be tuned to exactly match the pump, or you need a Cycle Stop Valve to keep the pump from cycling. A PK1A kit would have everything you need to make that pump work automatically and do any job you want it to do.

 

SebMA

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If you can hook all your sprinkler zones to an irrigation controller with a pump start relay you won't need a pressure tank and pressure switch. If you want to use hose bibs or hydrants you will need a pressure tank/pressure switch to make the pump come on when a faucet is open. When using a pressure tank system, every zone needs to be tuned to exactly match the pump, or you need a Cycle Stop Valve to keep the pump from cycling. A PK1A kit would have everything you need to make that pump work automatically and do any job you want it to do.

thank you for that, i'll watch the video. if i'm using jet pump or submersible - do you know how I would know if my well can produce 8-9GPM consistently, which pressure would I need to buy and what size tank? If there is an easy way for me to determine this with a self-test please let me know. Thank you so much.
 
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