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I'm going to get one of those! I tried a magnet, but those parts aren't attracted.

I managed it without--tricky since I've never done it before, but not horrible. The stops were easy--I cut the hole larger and removed them with no problem...except dropping one down the drain. Argh. A new one is on order, and the other is reversed and reinstalled. When the replacement arrives...

Thanks, all--I'm gonna give it a shot. The valve was given to me by a builder friend who had an extra--new, but no box or instructions. Also no mud ring. So I'm definitely learning on this one...including that sometimes, inexperienced people like me need the damn box.

Thank you! I think the nuts are there; however, now I need to go look again--it's possible I don't have room to remove the stops. Well, I could cut the shower wall, which is poly. Are the stops normally visible through the hole when the shower handle and bezel are removed? I apologize for my...

I'm building a house in a remote community with no plumbers. I installed this shower valve a year ago and am finally turning on water in my house. No leaks except for the valve! It's leaking from the hot side of the little thingies that stick out on each side (what are those?). I tried...

This is very helpful. I had also overlooked the fact that, though I have two main lines run, they intersect at the shower mixer valve (rookie move made by a total rookie). So instead of testing two lines, I really need to test just one as a system. Unfortunately, I am currently ONE PLUG short...

I'm trying to air-test test a new system--also not very involved--using a Pasco gauge with a bicycle valve. I THINK I have everything capped, but exactly zero pressure builds. None at all, acts as if it's a wide-open system. Of course, something--or everything--major is not actually closed off...

Now I think I have all the pieces/parts on hand. (I live in the middle of nowhere and then some, so everything takes a while.) Just to confirm: I set the flange up so that the BACK of the flange sits on top of the drywall, correct? I ask because, with the way the toilet is built, it leaves about...

Okay, this feels pretty clear. Here's the back of the unit:

Yes. It's a Gerber UF21374, floor-mounted. I have the finished floor in place now and can get the drain to the correct height; however, I've never roughed-in a toilet--let alone a rear-outlet one--and I'm having trouble finding information about depth, as well as which pieces (flange, neoprene...

Could you use a thing called a "p-trap connector" instead? If so, would there still be a flange? I'm doing new construction and am having trouble finding a clear picture of how to do this install, beginning with the rough plumbing.