Fiberglass roll insulation have a pretty lousy history from moisture & mold management point of view. For poured concrete foundations it's better to either use 3-4" of rigid foam (expensive, at full retail- I used reclaimed roofing foam), or an inch or two of EPS (the macroscopic-beaded stuff of cheap coolers and coffee cups), trapped to the wall with a non-structural studwall with UNFACED rock wool or fiberglass.
With R13-15 in the stud bays and 1" of EPS (edges & seams sealed with can-foam) the "whole wall-R" after factoring in the thermal bridging of the framing is about R14-15. With 2" of EPS it's about R20. Since EPS is air-impermeable but semi-permeable to water vapor moisture doesn't build up in the concrete, raising the mold potential at the foundation sill- it dries toward the interior. Yet the interior side surface of the foam stays warm enough to not have wintertime condensation/accumulation in the fiber side of the stackup, even without interior vapor barriers (which would otherwise trap ground moisture in the studwall.) Since it's a non-structural studwall you can isolate the bottom plate of the framing from the slab with an inch or two of EPS, which keeps it warmer (=drier), and provides a capillary break against moisture that might otherwise wick up through the slab. It also means the top plate can be a single-plate, not doubled. Insulating and air-sealing the wall foam to the foundation sill band-joist with an inch or two of closed cell foam is highly recommended (a couple of 12 board-foot FrothPak kits from a box store can do quite a bit if you're careful), since sill gaskets all leak, and most band joists weren't air-sealed during construction, making the foundation the largest single infiltration factor in most homes. (It's just one big long skinny hole, but adds up to 10s of square inches.)
You could also use XPS (pink/blue/green board) or polyiso, instead of EPS. XPS is somewhat more vapor tight and more expensive than EPS, but it's also blown with HFC134a, which outgasses slowly over time, causing it to lose ~15% of it's R-value after a few decades. HFC134a is also a very potent greenhouse gas, about 1400x CO2 in global warming potential. Polyiso (and EPS) is blown with much more benign pentane (~7x CO2 GWP), but usually sold with foil facers, which can be an issue for the foundation sill unless the house was built with a decent sill gasket as a capillary break between the concrete & wood.
If you have a good sill gasket, insulating the wall with a
fire-rated Thermax using HDPE or nylon pancake-head fasteners can be much quicker & sometimes cheaper than an EPS + studwall method: