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Thread: Need to replace one-piece fiberglass shower/tub unit

  1. #16
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer jadnashua's Avatar
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    FWIW, today's code requires the toilet space to be at least 30" wide, and at least 15" to either side of the toilet centerline. That can be tight, but if it's at least that side-to-side clearance, it does meet today's code.
    Jim DeBruycker
    Important note - I'm not a pro
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer; Schluter 2.5-day Workshop Completed 2013, 2014

  2. #17
    Forum Admin, Expert Plumber Terry's Avatar
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    Sterling makes some kits for retrofit that I've installed.



    They come in four pieces, the tub and three wall sections that snap together. The only thing left is to drywall over the nailing flange when done.

  3. #18
    ACO Shower Drain Sales johnfrwhipple's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by suceress View Post
    ... Since my brother weighs over 300lbs, I would want one rated for more than that just in case he tries to grab on. ....
    One thing to remember here while you worry about this is that your brother most likely does not have the strength to hold his entire weight with one hand. The odds are low that the bar would ever be placed under that kind of strain.

    JW


    jfrwhipple@gmail.com - www-no-curb.com - 604 506 6792

    Always get construction advice double checked by your local city hall. Flood Test Every Shower - Every Time.

  4. #19
    ACO Shower Drain Sales johnfrwhipple's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Terry View Post
    ....They come in four pieces, the tub and three wall sections that snap together. The only thing left is to drywall over the nailing flange when done.
    Just a L-Bead or J-Channel Terry over that flange?


    jfrwhipple@gmail.com - www-no-curb.com - 604 506 6792

    Always get construction advice double checked by your local city hall. Flood Test Every Shower - Every Time.

  5. #20
    Forum Admin, Expert Plumber Terry's Avatar
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    Just a L-Bead or J-Channel Terry over that flange?
    I try to stay out of the dry waller's way when I can.
    If it were me doing drywall, I would mud and texture right to it. But then I'm mainly plumbing em.

    I look at it two ways, those like like to use a kit and wall around them, and those that like to set a standard tub and backerboard around and then solid surface over that. That option lets you cover more mistakes and sometimes covers so well that you can skip doing drywall and painting.
    But Sterling does make a nice kit.

  6. #21
    DIY Senior Member suceress's Avatar
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    Thanks, Jadnashua. I'll have to measure in the morning. None of the lights in any of the bathrooms work so I can't see in there. I actually need to replace the old vent/light/heat fixtures. The old ones are dying. I could probably replace the light bulbs if I could figure out how to open the fixture, but the heating part no longer works-- plus the tenants messed up the wiring so that the switch that says heat is actually for the vent/fan. Those fixtures have been in the house for probably 30 years at least. Obviously they are not energy star rated. :P

    Jwhipple, I adhere to the "better safe than sorry" adage. My brother is very rough on things. If he thinks something is built sturdy, he will test it. We had a couch that had steel reinforcement that was supposed to be very sturdy and he decided to take a flying leap onto it and broke it. He has gone through about 15 computer chairs-- several of them were supposed to hold 500lbs for 6 to 8 hours use. I would not be surprised if he gripped the bar with both hands and put all of his weight on it. No logical reason for it, but its just the sort of thing he does.

    Terry, thank you. I'm going to show my ignorance. I don't know what a nailing flange is. I'm guessing it is a flange on something that is nailed to the wall or studs to secure it? For dry wall, would cement board work? With the kits, would I be able to get a Sterling tub of my choice but then a different surround?
    Solid surface option is more forgiving of mistakes? I wish I knew a place locally that sold it-- and if it were affordable.
    Do you have links to any of the Sterling kits please?

    I really appreciate the information.

    Edit: I measured and the tiny bathroom is 56" wide. I measured the walls around the toilet and they are about 23" apart. The rest of the space is taken up by the shower stall.
    Last edited by suceress; 04-05-2013 at 12:29 AM. Reason: added info

  7. #22
    DIY Senior Member suceress's Avatar
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    I'm still kicking around ideas. I saw this tub surround on the Sterling website


    I wish there was an option to mix and match. I liked that Accord one with the corner shelves, but it is only 30" instead of 32". And the tub itself is too deep.

    I wonder if solid surface would even be an option and how much more expensive it would be...
    Last edited by suceress; 04-08-2013 at 11:06 AM.

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