How to remove plastic pipe stuck inside copper pipe

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Jerome2877

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You can heat the copper with a butane large lighter to soften the plastic, Then turn it out with the $3.49 sprinkler riser extractor or a tapered file that fits inside.

I agree, heat it up and it will melt enough to pull out easily.
 

plumdum

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So you don't have to do any soldering on copper. Take a wet rag and wrap it around the copper female adapter. Use a torch played at the top of the pvc male adapter that is broke off, just to get it soft. Then just use a screw driver or something similar and pry it out.
 

Winslow

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It would be nice to have a tool of that, If you have time to wait and order it.

the "nipple/pipe extractor" would be nice, but Tools like that are something a Pro would have.
Not very cost effective just for 1 time use.

A good utility knife should cut PVC without damaging the threads.

Go to the irrigation section of home depot, they have an extraction tool made for plastic nipples .
 

plumdum

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The original poster does not want to learn how to solder copper. If he applies too much heat to the fitting, he could lose the solder joint. A wet rag around the solder joint will keep it from overheating.
If thats overtightened cpvc, its not going anywhere without heat enough to soften it - and NO rags.
 

Dlarrivee

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Pretty sure the pvc would be good and burnt before you lost the solder... but what do I know.
 

Jadnashua

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The plastic is relatively soft. Anything you can put inside that's tapered will likely make a grove and then allow you to turn the thing out. A nipple extractor is designed to do this, an easy-out, and many other removal tools. If the pipe is large enough, a hacksaw blade could cut a couple of notches deep enough to weaken it so it would turn out easier, or pry out a wedge and then allow it to come out. Shouldn't need heat or extrodinary means, but maybe a little creativity if you don't have the right tool. If there's enough sticking out, you could file a notch across it, then use something like a screwdriver to span the notches and unscrew it that way.
 

Ballvalve

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I told him to use a butane grill lighter. If he can unsolder that joint with that, something is strange in his plumbing.

copper threads are rolled or formed and seem to have a special desire to keep plastic wedged in. A newbie to this with a hacksaw blade would likely cut the threads and end up with a leak. Lets all remember these are TAPERED fittings, and when overtightened, are fairly welded together.
 

hj

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quote; If thats overtightened cpvc, its not going anywhere without heat enough

I have yet to find ANY plastic male adapter that can be "overtightened". Before you reach that point the entire thread would be buried in the female thread. It is NOT polybutylene, and it IS white. That failure is a common one. Sometimes I have to fix two or three a week. The key to the repair is HOW you do the repair AFTER the plastic piece is removed.
 

Ballvalve

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With the Asian brass fittings, and now PVC, I find everything out of spec, some barely going in and brass and SS fittings that the fittings bottom out in and still wiggle. Starting to think about epoxy as pipe dope, for the dopes in our congress that let that crap pollute our country.

They open containers at the dock looking for fake handbags and rolex's - pipe fittings? electrical parts? Possibility of death with failure? Wave it on through to home depression.
 
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BobL43

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With the Asian brass fittings, and now PVC, I find everything out of spec, some barely going in and brass and SS fittings that the fittings bottom out in and still wiggle. Starting to think about epoxy as pipe dope, for the dopes in our congress that let that crap pollute our country.

They open containers at the dock looking for fake handbags and rolex's - pipe fittings? electrical parts? Possibility of death with failure? Wave it on through to home depression.
whoda thunk this original question would have so many answers? Almost as popular as if he asked how to wire in a new grounded duplex outlet in an old house with ungrounded ones. go figure
 

DonL

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whoda thunk this original question would have so many answers? Almost as popular as if he asked how to wire in a new grounded duplex outlet in an old house with ungrounded ones. go figure


I think that this project may require a permit.
 

DonL

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Has the Inspection been done yet ? I hope that it passed.


Have a Happy New Year Everyone.


DonL
 

Cwhyu2

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quote; If thats overtightened cpvc, its not going anywhere without heat enough

I have yet to find ANY plastic male adapter that can be "overtightened". Before you reach that point the entire thread would be buried in the female thread. It is NOT polybutylene, and it IS white. That failure is a common one. Sometimes I have to fix two or three a week. The key to the repair is HOW you do the repair AFTER the plastic piece is removed.
Color must be off on my monitor.
 

Schustermarie54

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In my opinions, forget the M. It is just too thin walled.

Also in my opinion copper is for homes of the past and there is no good reason to use it in new homes. Look at the posts here for frozen, burst, leaking, pin-holed pipes and the trouble most Diy'ers have repairing it.

PEXa or CPVC would be my choices now.

There is the argument that many have that they have done it this way for 30 years and nobody can tell them any different. That's all fine and dandy but I use a cell phone, or home phone, not a telegraph, a computer, not a typwriter, and tools that use rechargable batteries.
 

CM2304

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You could take a pair of needle nosed pliers, stick just the tips of them inside the plastic pipe, pull the handles open so the ends of the pliers hold tight against the inside dimension of the plastic pipe, then rotate the pliers counterclockwise while maintaining outward pressure on the handles. If the plier ends slip on the plastic, you can cut some groves inside the pipe for traction with a utility knife or a small file.
 

BobL43

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You could take a pair of needle nosed pliers, stick just the tips of them inside the plastic pipe, pull the handles open so the ends of the pliers hold tight against the inside dimension of the plastic pipe, then rotate the pliers counterclockwise while maintaining outward pressure on the handles. If the plier ends slip on the plastic, you can cut some groves inside the pipe for traction with a utility knife or a small file.
I don't think so. did you ever try that yourself with a tightly screwed in pipe stub? Post 7 shows the right type of tool to use, and it works.
 
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