Dril bit for steel sink

Users who are viewing this thread

Vaman77

Member
Messages
39
Reaction score
0
Points
6
Location
NJ
I am going to drill a hole in a stainless steel sink with a titanium step bit. I know I need to first drill a 1/8 " pilot hole. I have some bits on hand but they are not titanium. Do I will they work or should I just get some titanium bits while buying the step bit? Am guessing these will just break off.
 

BobL43

DIY Senior Member
Messages
1,802
Reaction score
8
Points
38
Location
Long Island, NY
I am going to drill a hole in a stainless steel sink with a titanium step bit. I know I need to first drill a 1/8 " pilot hole. I have some bits on hand but they are not titanium. Do I will they work or should I just get some titanium bits while buying the step bit? Am guessing these will just break off.
.

The most important thing is to make sure there is a center punch mark so the bit does not walk away from the correct positon as you start drilling. Although Stainless is tougher than mild steel to drill, it is not bad at all. I guess if you have a mechanical center punch, you should use it, as punching it with a regular hammer type punch is likely to make a dent unless you back up the metal underneath first. Just don't force the drill to hard, and if it does not grab and jam up, it most likely will have no reason to break.:)
 

LLigetfa

DIYer, not in the trades
Messages
7,507
Reaction score
581
Points
113
Location
NW Ontario, Canada
Seems like a no-brainer... you can never have too many drill bits. The smaller ones especially are easy to break. If you're out buying the step bit, go ahead and pick up a few small bits as well. You might get away with using carbon steel bits but then again, you might end up making another trip to the store.
 

Gary Swart

In the Trades
Messages
8,101
Reaction score
84
Points
48
Location
Yakima, WA
I try to keep a bunch of small bits like 1/8" on hand. They're pretty easy to break even in mild steel.
 

BobL43

DIY Senior Member
Messages
1,802
Reaction score
8
Points
38
Location
Long Island, NY
I try to keep a bunch of small bits like 1/8" on hand. They're pretty easy to break even in mild steel.

Oh yeah, no such thing as too many drill bits, for sure, but those that I have broken: I blame myself for not enough patience.
 

Vaman77

Member
Messages
39
Reaction score
0
Points
6
Location
NJ
You're right.realize after I posted question it is a no brainer.
 

Gary Swart

In the Trades
Messages
8,101
Reaction score
84
Points
48
Location
Yakima, WA
I certainly agree that at least most of the time, broken small size bits are my own fault, but the point is, they do tend to break. Can't recall ever breaking a 3/8" or larger bit.
 

BobL43

DIY Senior Member
Messages
1,802
Reaction score
8
Points
38
Location
Long Island, NY
I certainly agree that at least most of the time, broken small size bits are my own fault, but the point is, they do tend to break. Can't recall ever breaking a 3/8" or larger bit.

I have broken 1/2" bits; my fault, no patience, STRONG ass drill motor (and sore arm):eek: My shoulder got bruised too.
 

Ballvalve

General Engineering Contractor
Messages
3,581
Reaction score
45
Points
48
Location
northfork, california
Pretty hard to make a center punch in a SS sink without a heavy piece of iron held under it. And any bit not "black" and from china will drill the pilot.

Its no problem to drill a 2" hole in 1/4" steel with a good hole saw if you have oil and experience.

Titanium step bits mean you have to drill several holes, not a good idea for this job. They are made for knockouts for electrical boxes. And the titanium is just a coating over high speed steel [we hope] and essentially a sales ploy.

I would use a lenox hole saw with a flood of drilling oil, or a diamond grit hole saw with a hose on it. Practice on a junk sink.

The secret of drilling holes in steel is enough pressure to get a spiral chip. If you dont get a spiral, you need more pressure . My drilling fluid is the cheapest transmission fluid made, hot water, good soap, and heavy gear oil - used is fine. A little lecithin helps emulsify it when you mix it with a mortar head on a drill.

They sell this 5$ mix for about 80 bucks a 5g bucket. put it in a hose sprayer and use it on your hand tools too.
 
Last edited:

BobL43

DIY Senior Member
Messages
1,802
Reaction score
8
Points
38
Location
Long Island, NY
Pretty hard to make a center punch in a SS sink without a heavy piece of iron held under it. And any bit not "black" and from china will drill the pilot.

Its no problem to drill a 2" hole in 1/4" steel with a good hole saw if you have oil and experience.

Titanium step bits mean you have to drill several holes, not a good idea for this job. They are made for knockouts for electrical boxes. And the titanium is just a coating over high speed steel [we hope] and essentially a sales ploy.

I would use a lenox hole saw with a flood of drilling oil, or a diamond grit hole saw with a hose on it. Practice on a junk sink.

The secret of drilling holes in steel is enough pressure to get a spiral chip. If you dont get a spiral, you need more pressure . My drilling fluid is the cheapest transmission fluid made, hot water, good soap, and heavy gear oil - used is fine. A little lecithin helps emulsify it when you mix it with a mortar head on a drill.

They sell this 5$ mix for about 80 bucks a 5g bucket. put it in a hose sprayer and use it on your hand tools too.

Yes it is hard to use a regular center punch here, that's why I suggested using a mechanical punch, you know, the spring loaded type. The drill bits with the needle starting points might work fine, I just never used one to start a hole. I did use a hole saw, though to make the hole in my previous stainless sink for a filtered water spigot, no problemo. Sounds like a nice concoction for coolant. I don't know what the machinist uses at work, but its pretty thin looking stuff.
 

LLigetfa

DIYer, not in the trades
Messages
7,507
Reaction score
581
Points
113
Location
NW Ontario, Canada
I have broken 1/2" bits...
I was bearing down hard on a 1/2" bit when it broke. The broken bit hit the inside of my knee and there was so much inertia on the motor that it shredded and wound up my jeans and didn't stop until it reached my crotch. Man, it was painful and I was scared to look after I had unwound all the material from the bit. Had two kids since then so obviously no permanent damage but the scar is still visible.
 
Last edited:

Ballvalve

General Engineering Contractor
Messages
3,581
Reaction score
45
Points
48
Location
northfork, california
Drilling a 1/2" hole in steel by hand you need about 2 or three prior holes and the drill butted to a wall or a magnetic unit.

The most amazing thing is that no kid I ever hired knew how to drill a hole. They like to wear gloves, long baggy sleeves and even a scarf in one case. Maybe thats because I bought the schools 2 ton, 1942 drill press at the auction when they bought computers instead. Got another 40 years left in it. Has a tapping switch changeover with instant reverse. $50 bucks.

Hard to drill a hole with a computer. The school prefers their arms get torn off at my place rather than save them with a few sessions of training.
 
Top
Hey, wait a minute.

This is awkward, but...

It looks like you're using an ad blocker. We get it, but (1) terrylove.com can't live without ads, and (2) ad blockers can cause issues with videos and comments. If you'd like to support the site, please allow ads.

If any particular ad is your REASON for blocking ads, please let us know. We might be able to do something about it. Thanks.
I've Disabled AdBlock    No Thanks