I believe I have a pressure drop due to insufficient pipe size across my new home. I rule out scale b/c of the age. The side of the house where the supply enters maintains pressure regardless if the far side's faucets are open. But if the supply side faucets of the house are on, there is only 10 psi on the far side. The non-flow pressure of the house is 45 psi. If I add a booster pump, will it help the far side of the house when the supply side is open?
Correcting pressure loss due to friction
- Thread starter Enrico
- Start date
Users who are viewing this thread
are you sure all the valves are fully open? if one of your shut off valves is only partially open ,youwould have full pressure when no flow, and reduced pressure when flowing.
it is also easeir to open a valve than to replace pipe!
it is also easeir to open a valve than to replace pipe!
Sponsor
Paid Advertisement
Your pipes may have been undersized from the start.
I've seen old homes piped the whole way in 1/2"
Now, it's more common to bring in 1" or 1-1/4" from the meter.
https://terrylove.com/watersize.htm
I've seen old homes piped the whole way in 1/2"
Now, it's more common to bring in 1" or 1-1/4" from the meter.
https://terrylove.com/watersize.htm
Do you have any details about existing pipe sizing and material used? Can you see any of the piping exposed in basement / attic? What are the distances involved? Number of bathrooms? Size of the meter and size of the supply pipe where it first enters the house?
If the piping is undersized, it may be preferable to run some new lines at the larger size rather than trying to solve the problem with a booster pump.
If the piping is undersized, it may be preferable to run some new lines at the larger size rather than trying to solve the problem with a booster pump.
The home is built on a concrete foundation and the plumbing is in the slab so re-piping the home is not an option. Making matters worse is the hot water heater is on the non-supply side of the home and the master bath is on the supply side. That means the hot water has to make a round trip. I don't know enough about the physics. My fear is even with the booster pump if both bathrooms (one on each side of the home) are running only the supply side will see the increase pressure. Is this true?
Jimbo
Plumber
To have a 35 PSI drop in 1/2 " copper would require something like 10 gallons per minute across 250' of pipe. I suspect you are losing pressre right at the PRV, and it is them more noticeable at the farther locations. What is the house pressure at the near end when taps are open?
hj
Master Plumber
- Messages
- 33,603
- Reaction score
- 1,042
- Points
- 113
- Location
- Cave Creek, Arizona
- Website
- www.terrylove.com
pump
If the pressure at the source does not change, then adding a booster pump will not make any difference. If the pipes deliver inadequate flow, putting the pump at the far side will "starve" it and it will fail very quickly. The ONLY solution is to change the pipes. If they are under concrete, the pipes themselves could have been damaged, such as being kinked, so that they cannot deliver the water they were designed for.
If the pressure at the source does not change, then adding a booster pump will not make any difference. If the pipes deliver inadequate flow, putting the pump at the far side will "starve" it and it will fail very quickly. The ONLY solution is to change the pipes. If they are under concrete, the pipes themselves could have been damaged, such as being kinked, so that they cannot deliver the water they were designed for.
Jimbo
Plumber
Losing that much pressure with 2 gpm flow is just ridculous. I suspect a problem which a pump will not fix. A good leak detection company may be able to find the restricion point with their ultrasonic equipment. By the way....are both hot and cold water affected, or only one??
