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Thread: replacing basket strainer

  1. #1
    DIY Member econguy's Avatar
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    Default replacing basket strainer

    Hello

    Some basic questions follow - thanks for your patience and advice.

    I'm trying to replace a basket strainer. I've got the old strainer removed, but I'm now confused how to remove the section of drain pipe so I can slide off the old slip nut.

    I thought I could simply slide it off the top, but the pipe has a flared lip on top.

    The attached picture shows the pipe section I'm trying to remove (copper? - I'm not sure what it is). I don't even know how to try removing it - is it threaded in? Do I unscrew it? What do I replace it with?

    As it turns out, I would've had to replace it anyways...as I was unscrewing the hose clamp to the dishwasher drain line on the right, it ripped right off, opening a inch-wide hold in that main pipe section.

    Thanks again
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    Will

  2. #2
    Plumbing Designer FloridaOrange's Avatar
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    Do you have a trap there?? If not, replace it all and put in a trap. Can you post a whole picture of your cabinet space?

    That pipe is sitting down in the PVC, should pull out unless someone epoxied it in.
    Matt
    Semi-professional plumbing designer
    Enjoying life in SW Florida

  3. #3
    DIY Member econguy's Avatar
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    Thanks for the fast response Florida...

    I don't *think* there's a P-trap...here's a picture of the entire cabinet space, plus the crawl space where the pipe goes. I'm not sure if the second picture has the equivalent of a p-trap, or what.

    As far as that pipe, it definitely doesn't pull out. If it is epoxied, what then?
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    Last edited by econguy; 09-01-2009 at 07:19 PM.
    Will

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    Plumbing Designer FloridaOrange's Avatar
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    Ackkkk!! Bottle trap!

    The closest (and easiest to make it right) would be to remove the bottle trap and put a P-trap and at the least an AAV (Air admittance valve).

    If it is epoxied, what then?
    You'lll either need to put in a new section of PVC or use an adjustable plier and try to break the epoxy.
    Matt
    Semi-professional plumbing designer
    Enjoying life in SW Florida

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    Plumbing Designer FloridaOrange's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FloridaOrange View Post
    Ackkkk!! Bottle trap!

    The closest (and easiest to make it right) would be to remove the bottle trap and put a P-trap and at the least an AAV.
    Matt
    Semi-professional plumbing designer
    Enjoying life in SW Florida

  6. #6
    DIY Member econguy's Avatar
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    Thanks again for the responses.

    I'm about to call it a night, but plan on looking into your suggestions when I pick back up on the project.

    Thanks
    Will

  7. #7
    Moderator & Master Plumber hj's Avatar
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    Default drain

    That pipe is just slid into the larger one. If it was inserted while the glue was still wet it may have adhered to it, but a good twist and pull will remove it. That is a drum trap, not a bottle trap, and while not a good idea, will work. The nut on THAT drain piece was a "captive" one, which means it was installed during the manufacturing process and could NOT be replaced. You would have had to get a new flanged branch tailpiece even if the DW connection had not broke off.

  8. #8
    Plumbing Designer FloridaOrange's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hj View Post
    That is a drum trap, not a bottle trap, and while not a good idea, will work.
    Thanks for the correction.
    Matt
    Semi-professional plumbing designer
    Enjoying life in SW Florida

  9. #9
    DIY Member econguy's Avatar
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    Default thanks...

    another basic question - what's the purpose of the plastic nut where the two pipe sections meet? to hold the new tailpiece in place?

    i mean, only the plastic pipe is threaded, right? i guess i can't see what the nut does, aside from just screwing onto the plastic pipe.
    Will

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