New washer, drain backs-up

thockenb · Jul 25, 2009

We installed a new washer and connected everything as it was with the old washer, but now water backs up out of the drain. I thought it might need a vent, so I created a mechanism to allow air flow. Still the same problem.
Here is a pic of the old system, the way the water used to drain from the washer. It was like this when we moved into the house early this year.

Here is a pic of the vented system that I just created.

Any help is appreciated.
thanks.

FloridaOrange · Jul 25, 2009

If your system is experiencing positive pressure from the new washing machine the AAV is not going to benefit you. It's an Air Admittance Valve.
It's kinda scary that you don't have a trap either.
What's the size of your existing system?

Sponsor · 2022-01-29T12:20:58-0800

Seaofnames · Jul 25, 2009

Seems weird to go from the 3/4" washer line to a 1.25/1.5" ABS wye, then it bushes down to about 3/4" again...into a 2" cast flange....I'd try getting rid of that ABS/plastic pipe crap and take out that bush down...as that is against code anyway since you are going from a bigger drain to a smaller drain.

dabensys · Jul 25, 2009

I can't say why the backup is occuring from the plumbing perspective, but I'll bet the water pump on the new washer is more powerful and thus causing the backup, especially if your last washer was smaller and a good bit older.

Does the backup occur with all load sizes? I'm wondering if a small load wash cycle would work ok. Probably doesn't help you too much, but if it works, you'll be able to wash clothes until you can get someone to look at the plumbing system.

TedL · Jul 25, 2009

The gray "rubbber" connection ( relying on gravity) appears to be your bottleneck, and it seems smaller than the washer discharge hose (with a pump driving flow). Recipe for backup.

While you didn't ask, others have noted that no trap appears in the photos. Please tell us there's one lower down on the standpipe, out of the picture.

Gary Swart · Jul 25, 2009

I've just gotta tell ya, you have a totally illegal and unworkable setup here. There may be a cure, but it is not going to be a quick or easy band aid fix. It's not a DIY job for a novice. You need a professional plumber to get this mess straighten out and up to code. Sorry if this isn't very tactful, but that's how I see your problem.

MACPLUMB · Jul 26, 2009

Washer drain backs up

I would go with what gary posted plus who ever you call make sure that they electric power snake to properly rod out your cast iron drain to make sure
that it is open the same time that they are bringing the pipes up to code

PLUMBERS PROTECT THE HEALTH OF THE NATION ! ! !

This is especially true where your plumbing is concerned

Dlarrivee · Jul 26, 2009

So in short, a bunch of plumbers think you should call, a plumber.

Garydaplummer · Jul 26, 2009

Yes

Based on the example shown, I'd say yes.

Gary Swart · Jul 26, 2009

Not all the the "call a plumber" advice is from a plumber. I'm an avid DIYer, but all of us have our limitations, and it wise to know when the point is reached that we need professional assistance. When a person does not know that a drain such as the one pictured is totally wrong, then that point for that person has not only been reached, it has been surpassed. This is not intended to be a put down for the poster, on the contrary, he realizes something is wrong and is looking for help. In this case, that help would be a plumber.

Jeff1 · Jul 26, 2009

My new washer was overflowing the drain line when it was installed. I had a plumber mod the drain from 1.5" to a 2" line and low and behold it worked. I bet a plumber could also fix the string holding your drain line up as well. Its time to call in the pros.

Rich B · Jul 26, 2009

I had 2 basement washers draining into a single straight 1- 1/12" tee that was in the 4" C.I. horizontal section and there was no vents. They are seperated by a divider wall. They backed up soap residue occasioanlly. Here is what I did to update them....

Redwood · Jul 26, 2009

dlarrivee said:
So in short, a bunch of plumbers think you should call, a plumber.

Absolutely!
There is no doubt in my mind!

TedL · Jul 26, 2009

dlarrivee said:
So in short, a bunch of plumbers think you should call, a plumber.

It's part of the plumbers' conspiracy. Anyone with half a brain knows you should call a lawyer to deal with a problem, so (s)he can identify who's at fault and sue them.

thockenb · Jul 26, 2009

Thanks to everyone who offered input, and didn't just say get a plumber...the forum has "DIY" in the title.

To answer some questions. There is a trap, just below the pic. Venting is not the issue, there is a vent, I just didn't know what I was looking for and the folks at Home Depot who gave me advise to vent it were wrong. I created the wierd venting mechanism with the ABS based on advise from Home Depot. Same issue with small/large loads. I called a plumber, quoted $700.

The problem is, the new washer has a stronger pump than the old, and the bottle neck is at the gray rubber hose. My wifes uncle (master electrician for the secret service) figured it out before the plumber came over, and the plumber confirmed it. Why this is $700 I don't know? As far as code, there are a lot of things in our house, which is our first house and built in 1908 that were missed by our inspector.

I am going to try to finish it myself once more before I spend $700.

Redwood · Sep 4, 2009

anysewer said:
Hi,
It seems like the water from your washing machine is coming out at a very high speed and the volume of water is a little too much for the pipe. I do not do any plumbing but we see these type of problems on daily basis. Your current set up seems better than the original setup, I think you should consider eletrically snaking the line to scrape off grease and pipe scale. Once you get the pipe snaked you should see the clear difference. Just one question, do you hear any gurguling noise when the water drains?
Good Luck

Phew! Are you serious?

Better stick to the day job behind that desk...

Jimbo · Sep 5, 2009

This picture was posted some time ago, and I believe the advice was the same...too many fittings, too many restrictions, will not support the stronger pump in a new machine.

With all the cast iron fittings which need to be dealt with, the advice was that this is perhaps too much for DIY, but if you are willing to tackle it, why not. And why does everyone still think a plumber should come in for peanuts and fix these things?? I just took my car over for an oil change and cooling flush. Drove away $683 poorer! Needed a few things. I have a mechanic I have used for 15 years. He does not BS me, and he tells me if something would be "nice" but you can do it later, or you should do it now. I just do what he says.

At least with plumbing, you have the option to do it yourself. ( In the case of cars, for ME, that is not an option!). If you follow this forum, you will find that tens of thousands of dollars of free advice are given daily. But don't expect us to tell you to hook it up like we see in your picture, of to give you some mickey mouse plan B. We will tell you the right way something should be done.

hj · Sep 5, 2009

call a plumber

Not every plumber tells you to call a plumber, but in this case all you have given us is a picture of your connection. That is NOT where the problem is otherwise it would not have backed up before you created that abortion. The advice to call a plumber is so HE can see the rest of the piping and correct that, whether it means changing something or snaking the line. The cost of the job is based on what he anticipates it will take in time and material, PLUS any thing else that could happen during the procedure.

New washer, drain backs-up

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