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Thread: Galvanized pipe question...

  1. #1
    DIY Member fatdaddy's Avatar
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    Default Galvanized pipe question...

    I have an old cabin.Fifties. Some of the plumbing has been replaced and I have some pvc and copper but most is galvanized threaded pipe,I think.
    When I last visited the place,the cold water in the bathroom and the supply to the toilet ran VERY slowly.The hot was OK and the hot and cold in the kitchen was good. My cousin offered her thought--perhaps the pipes have clogged with minerals for the cold in the bathroom.
    My questions are:
    How does one join copper to galvanized in this situation IF I need to replace the colds supply? Should I use copper or get threaded galvanized pieces to match what I remove if in fact the issue is clogged pipe?
    Thanks in advance.

  2. #2
    Illinois Licensed Plumber SewerRatz's Avatar
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    Default dielectric unions

    Quote Originally Posted by fatdaddy View Post
    I have an old cabin.Fifties. Some of the plumbing has been replaced and I have some pvc and copper but most is galvanized threaded pipe,I think.
    When I last visited the place,the cold water in the bathroom and the supply to the toilet ran VERY slowly.The hot was OK and the hot and cold in the kitchen was good. My cousin offered her thought--perhaps the pipes have clogged with minerals for the cold in the bathroom.
    My questions are:
    How does one join copper to galvanized in this situation IF I need to replace the colds supply? Should I use copper or get threaded galvanized pieces to match what I remove if in fact the issue is clogged pipe?
    Thanks in advance.
    You need to use dielectric unions.
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  3. #3
    DIY Member fatdaddy's Avatar
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    Default Are they readily available?

    Like an ACE HARDEWARE? If so,how do they get installed? Sweat on the copper side and threaded on the galvanized side?
    I may have a plumber do it eventually but I alwasy like to save when I can.
    The trouble is...going under the house.Spooky to say the least!

  4. #4
    Master Plumber nhmaster's Avatar
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    Default

    thread on the galv side, swett on the copper. Why not rip it all out and pexify the place?

  5. #5
    Illinois Licensed Plumber SewerRatz's Avatar
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by nhmaster View Post
    thread on the galv side, swett on the copper. Why not rip it all out and pexify the place?
    Shame on you saying that dirty word... pex..

  6. #6
    DIY Member fatdaddy's Avatar
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    Default If I went out more than once every few years

    I would engage in serious upgrades but the junction noted (Thanks Rat) might just do the trick. Sweating under that old tinderbox might just be what the doctor ordered in terms of a major remodel!
    Any other conncetions that might work without sweating?
    Thanks.
    Alan

  7. #7
    Plunger/TurdPuncher kingsotall's Avatar
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    Default

    Sharkbites may be the trick. God, I wish I wasn't posting this.
    Just the thought of you, fatdaddy, under the house with a torch and it being a tinder box and all.
    I just post cuz I like to see my avatar.

  8. #8
    Forum Admin, Expert Plumber Terry's Avatar
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    Default

    It's a cabin.
    Just pull out "all" of the galvanized and replace with PEX

    Any galvanized you leave in, will be replaced shortly.
    And when you start adding copper, the galvy will go downhill very quickly.

  9. #9
    DIY Member fatdaddy's Avatar
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    Default OK. SO I use PEX.

    Sharkbite connections the best?
    If other connections used,what are the tools I will need.
    ALSO,this stuff will be under the cabin but not in the ground,I think.Do critters gnaw on PEX? Can it be insulated like copper,with foam?
    Thanks.

  10. #10
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer jadnashua's Avatar
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    Default

    Mice have been known to chew on pex that is exposed. Yes, you can use standard pipe insulation on it...the OD is the same as equivalently sized copper (the ID is smaller because the wall thickness is larger).

    Sharkbites work when connecting pex, but because of their costs, it quickly becomes cheaper to use the manufacturer's fittings and attachment tools if you are doing a lot of work. THey're great for repairs or a temporary repair (like capping a line prior to installation of a fixture or making a repair where there's not much room).
    Jim DeBruycker
    Important note - I'm not a pro
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer; Schluter 2.5-day Workshop Completed 2013, 2014

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