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Thread: Need help with plumbing utility sink - Pics included

  1. #1

    Default Need help with plumbing utility sink - Pics included

    Hello,

    I wanted a utility sink in my garage, so I decided to undertake the project this weekend. The easiest spot to put the sink is on the wall that has the washer/dryer on the other side. I acutally went ahead and setup all the plumbing and realized that the drain is way too high to put a standard 14" deep utility tub now. The drain I plumbed is about 28" off the garage floor. I'm not sure how I can lower the drain. If you look at the two pictures you can see what I did and the original. Ideally i'd like to put the drain as low as I can which would pretty much be right on top of the foundation.

    Thanks!
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  2. #2
    Plumber jimbo's Avatar
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    The inspector will not buy this at all. First, a sink cannot share a drain with a washing machine. Second, the sanitary tee fitting you used is not proper. IF you were to connect a sink drain at that point, it would have to connect to a wye + 45.

  3. #3
    Forum Admin, Expert Plumber Terry's Avatar
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    An inspector would buy something like this.

  4. #4
    I&C Engineer (mostly WWTP) Lakee911's Avatar
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    Follow the pipe to the right and see where it goes. Eventually the drain will have to go down. Use a wye at that point pretty low to tie in your sink. You'll need to connect to that vent that the washing machine uses too. It's ok if those are shared.

    I have a sink and a washer connection at home in my basement where the sink is downstream of the washer. It works fine, but if you can do it and want it up to code, don't do it.

    Be careful that your garage doesn't get below 32 degrees in the winter. You may need to beef up its insulation and garage door, provide a heater or heat trace.

    Generally the pipes are stubbed out, and then drywall is installed. After finishing drywall eschucheon plates are added and then the valves. This gives the nicest and cleanest installation.



    Jason

  5. #5

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    Thank you for the input. I realized when I did what I did, I probably did it very wrong. I think at this point I will have to probably just take out what I've done and repair the washer drain pipe.

    I'm thinking I'll see about a professional to plumb the drain properly. Hopefully the drain isn't too far away. Is it going to be a problem putting another 2" pipe on those studs below the other pipe?

    Thanks!

  6. #6
    I&C Engineer (mostly WWTP) Lakee911's Avatar
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    Is it a load bearing wall? I would use a 1-1/2" pipe so you don't have to remove as much material. There are special brackets that you can use to reinforce the stud where the holes are drilled. It might be a good idea to use them. Does someone have a name or pic of them? I don't know what they're called.

  7. #7

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    I had a plumber come out and do it all today to code. It looks very similar to Terry's example now. Bummer deal is that the drain is still pretty tall in the garage, unless I wanted him to cut out a hole in the foundation and tie into the main underneath the house. I figured rather than spending 3x as much money, I'll just live with a shallower utility sink or a taller one. In the end, I think it's all going to work out just fine.

    It's really hard to find a utility tub that's only 10" deep! Everything I can find so far is about 12 - 14.

  8. #8
    Moderator & Master Plumber hj's Avatar
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    I cannot understand why it is so high. If I had access to the pipe down to the floor, the opening would be about 6" up, and higher only if you wanted it there. How about a picture of what he did?

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