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Thread: Repairing Sewer Pipe from inside

  1. #16
    I&C Engineer (mostly WWTP) Lakee911's Avatar
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    That's true. For jerking me around though, I might trick them in to locating the break for me. Of course if I were them, I wouldn't tell me where it is exactly. Heh

  2. #17
    In the Trades Bob NH's Avatar
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    If you can open up the wall and burrow out a bit you may be able to cut the pipe beyond the hole and splice on a piece of 4" of whatever meets the code.

    If I were going to hire someone I would call a plumber and ask for a price to get it repaired. I would tell the plumber that replacing the whole pipe is not an option so he doesn't get the idea that he can talk you into a "replace the whole line" job.

    If you are into DIY you could try burrowing around the pipe before you call the plumber.

    Another way if you dig it out would be to encase the area in concrete. That would involve securing a small patch over the hole to keep the concrete out; then load the whole thing with concrete. Another solution would be to repair the area with a complete wrap of fiberglass/epoxy.

    The outside of the pipe should be well-cleaned before either concrete or fiberglass is applied.

    If I were doing it myself it would probably be the fiberglass/epoxy.

    Other DIY options (probably not to code) might be a couple of layers of rubber with large hose clamps.

  3. #18
    I&C Engineer (mostly WWTP) Lakee911's Avatar
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    That's a good idea, Bob. Although this hole with roots is not my priority right now, I didn't think about patching it or concrete encasement. I would need remove some concrete blocks on the bottom course of the wall to get to it. The concrete blocks are not concrete filled either.

    I would most likely need to remove 1 or 1-1/2 blocks in the bottom row above the footer to access the pipe. Also, this would require removal of the sink and the entire waste stack in the basement to even access the area. I'm also likely to furthur damage the pipe if I try.

    Can I remove the blocks from near (not directly under) the corner of the foundation without risking damage to the wall? I thought about boring two or three 5/8" holes in the mortar joints above the block I'm removing. I could drive some 1/2" rebar into the earth below the existing block to remain. Maybe drive it in 18" or as far as possible. I could use some angle iron to support the inside of the rebar and essentially create a little scaffolding to hold the block in place. Doable?

    Thx
    Jason

    PS I sucessfully located where my sewer lateral tie in the center of the street (city sewer). When I pulled up the CAD file and measured 138.5 feet from the west manhole (on the permit) and 72.6 (or was it 76.2?) feet from the east manhole (from cameraing measurement), they were off by 4". The problem is, I think those are wyes that tie into the city sewer. So, I would have to assume that it comes all the way to curb at 45degrees. Unfortunately, the permit says the extended service at the lot is at the same measurement (138.5).

  4. #19
    In the Trades Bob NH's Avatar
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    The concrete blocks above the hole in the wall will act as an arch and will support themselves. Also, the wall above has a lot of stiffness and will support itself across a couple of feet without any problem.

    If you have reason to be concerned you could support the joists that are above the hole by putting a header under them and supporting them with a doubled 2x4 column on each side of the hole. If you supported a total of 3 joists at the hole with the posts about 32" apart and 8" overhang you would have some working space. Maybe one of the columns would be right in the corner.

    I would put the columns against the foundation wall because the footing is wider than the block wall. If you drive wedges between the header and the joists before you remove the blocks you will take the load on the columns.

    I would try to avoid removing blocks or digging under the corner. You should also try to avoid digging UNDER the footing, but if you must, you will want to remove ALL loose dirt and pour a new footing on firm soil.

    The footing loads are (should be) designed for 40 # per sq ft snow load on the roof and 40 # per sq ft floor loads, with some reduction in the floor load due to large contributing area. Nobody ever has that much load on a floor.

  5. #20
    Master Plumber Redwood's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Marlin336 View Post
    Honestly if I came and ran a camera through your line for free I wouldn't give you the tape. Why would I do free work for my competition. Now if you paid the guy for it it's another story.
    Yep same here! Pay for that camera you get the tape and locating with extreme accuracy everything you need to fix the line. Free camera? you get a line replacement/repair quote and thats it!

    Quote Originally Posted by Lakee911
    PS I sucessfully located where my sewer lateral tie in the center of the street (city sewer). When I pulled up the CAD file and measured 138.5 feet from the west manhole (on the permit) and 72.6 (or was it 76.2?) feet from the east manhole (from cameraing measurement), they were off by 4". The problem is, I think those are wyes that tie into the city sewer. So, I would have to assume that it comes all the way to curb at 45degrees. Unfortunately, the permit says the extended service at the lot is at the same measurement (138.5).
    It should be interesting to see you find the difference between proposed, planned, and as built... Could be a bunch of digging! I don't dig for a pipe unless my Ridgid Navitrak said thats where to dig!
    Last edited by Redwood; 02-04-2008 at 09:16 PM.

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