Well PSI Switch shuts off at 60psi but keeps building pressure?

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Steelcondour

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Well I just moved in to an old farm house. I'm having a problem with my psi going all the way up to about 85 PSI only when my submersible pump runs. Even though my psi switch shuts off at 60. (I even checked voltage to make sure it was off when the switch clicks at 60 and its completely dead to the pump side) I thought maybe my whole house filter was clogged and causing back pressure so I put a new one in, still getting same result. I also replaced my gauge, and 40/60 psi switch (just cuz its $30 and the other one was really old). I also drained all water and checked bladder psi in tank all seems good right at 38 psi. I figured I could add a pressure regulator if I really have to but I shouldn't need one. I know the plumbing to my pressure tank could be updated. (I don't think it has a check valve. I know it's missing a relief valve.) I planned on waiting to update the plumbing, when I get my kitchen remodel done. Any Ideas before I call a licensed plumber would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
 

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Reach4

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This is an odd configuration. I don't see the line from the pump. There should not be a valve between the pressure switch and the pump.

So the pressure switch clicks off at 60, but the pressure continues to rise until the pressure is 61, or what.
 

Valveman

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The 1/4" nipple before the tee to the pressure switch could be clogged. Use brass because galv nipples clog up. If that is not it the only other thing I have seen cause that issue is when there is buried tank out at the well no one knew about.
 

Steelcondour

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The 1/4" nipple before the tee to the pressure switch could be clogged. Use brass because galv nipples clog up. If that is not it the only other thing I have seen cause that issue is when there is buried tank out at the well no one knew about.
Thanks for the reply,

The 1/4" nipple is clear. I checked that when I replaced the switch. If there is a buried tank underground outside. What do u usually do? Or what would u do in this case add a regulator? It could definately be a possibility. Cause I have a bunch of outdoor yard hydrants that go to all my barns.
 

Steelcondour

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This is an odd configuration. I don't see the line from the pump. There should not be a valve between the pressure switch and the pump.

So the pressure switch clicks off at 60, but the pressure continues to rise until the pressure is 61, or what.
The line from the pump tees off right when it comes through the wall. Going through the valve to the tank. And the other part of the tee goes directly to supply the house.

The pressure rises to 85psi. After the pump shuts off at 60 psi.
 

Valveman

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That looks like a WX251 tank? If so it is a 62 gallon size that will deliver about 12 gallons of water as the pressure drops from 60 to 40. Pump up to 60 and let the pump shut off. Turn off power to the pump and measure how many gallons you get out before the pressure gets to zero. If it is more than 12 gallons, you have an additional tank somewhere that needs to be removed.
 

LLigetfa

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I would replace that valve that is reduced pipe size with a full port ball valve that is not reduced. The valve and the reducing bushing slows the fill rate and also the draw rate.
 

Steelcondour

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That looks like a WX251 tank? If so it is a 62 gallon size that will deliver about 12 gallons of water as the pressure drops from 60 to 40. Pump up to 60 and let the pump shut off. Turn off power to the pump and measure how many gallons you get out before the pressure gets to zero. If it is more than 12 gallons, you have an additional tank somewhere that needs to be removed.
It is a WX251 Tank. So I just got done measuring the gallons the best i could with a 6.5quart pot. It turned out to be like 13 gallons give or take a little.
 

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Sounds about right for a WX251. Pressure doesn't just magically go up. The pump is either still on or there is pressure stored coming from somewhere. Did you double check the air charge pressure in the tank?
 

Steelcondour

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Sounds about right for a WX251. Pressure doesn't just magically go up. The pump is either still on or there is pressure stored coming from somewhere. Did you double check the air charge pressure in the tank?
I can check it again but I just checked it and it was 38psi. I even went to Menards to get a new pressure gauge just to be sure cause the other one I had wasn't very accurate. Don't know if this helps but every once an a while I tend to get air in the kitchen faucet. I know for sure that the voltage on the pressure switch is shutting off to the pump at 60 psi.

Thanks again for the reply
 
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