Water condensation and tank moves on new Toto Eco Drake Transitional Tank

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OldRanch

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Today I had a new Toto C744EL elongated Eco Drake ADA bowl, 1.28 GPF with a Toto ST 744E Eco Drake transitional tank installed. The tank seems loose to me as it wobbles quite a bit - enough that it hits the ceramic tile on the wall behind it and there is condensation all over and under the tank, the bowl (even under the toilet seat cover) and a slow drip on the floor. The plumbing supply house said it was installed improperly and the installer said it was installed correctly and the problem is with the Toto product. The plumbing supply store said they would swap out my tank for a replacement tank (for free) on the off chance the ceramic finish on the bottom of the tank was not completely level. But they also said that with two piece toilets they do have some movement in the tank. I've lived in a number of different houses with a variety of toilets and never experienced a tank that moves like this. Is this the correct tank for the bowl? Do you think it was installed correctly? Any suggestions? Greatly appreciate any advice!
 

Jadnashua

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The correct way to install a Toto (and most other 2-piece toilets) is to evenly tighten the two bolts, side-to-side so you don't get it twisted until the tank is literally almost touching the bowl. Since I don't do it every day, I put a piece of paper between the tank and the bowl, and stop when it starts to get tight, but I can still pull it out without tearing it. Once you've done that, if it was kept even when tightening, there is an almost imperceptible movement.

I don't live that far away, but today was a VERY hot and humid day...unusual for this time of the year. It sounds like the flapper valve may be leaking since normally, unless the toilet is flushed LOTS in short intervals, the water gets a chance to warm up, and with what is mixed because it does not empty the tank, is usually above the dew point. The flapper valve may have the chain too tight, or it is too loose and gets caught underneath, so the thing can't seal. A second thing may be that the nut that holds the flapper valve seat in place may need to be snugged up, and it's leaking from there. This may not get onto the floor, but constant water running to keep the tank full would likely get the water cool enough to cause things to sweat. Try turning off the valve at the wall and see if the tank drains after awhile.
 

WJcandee

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First: Was the "installer" a licensed plumber? Or something else?

You don't need to be a plumber to install a toilet, but handy-hacks seem to screw up toilet installations more often than even DIY-ers. Reach and Jim explain above how that tank should be seated, and there's a tutorial on the Drake at the top of this section of the forum. What you describe sounds like every other tank I have seen where the person didn't know how to do it right and left it before it was sufficiently-tightened-down. In particular, that tank has to come straight down vertically, which sometimes means loosening, restraightening, and retightening if it's coming down at an angle. And one has to pay attention to make sure it comes down enough but not too much. The porcelain shouldn't touch, but it should be close. It involves some checking then tightening then checking then tightening. And when it's done the tank will be rock solid. I have installed several Toto Drakes, and with a little paying of attention and following instructions, the tank is solid.

For Toto to have shipped a defective tank isn't impossible, but it is extremely, extraordinarily unlikely. They have the best quality control and consistency in the business. That's why your supply house was skeptical. They deserve lots of credit for agreeing to swap tanks for free.

I'm voting for installer error -- and error that likely could be easily-corrected if the guy -- like all incompetents -- didn't keep insisting that he did it right.

Here's an acid test for whose fault it is: Did the "installer" put the thing in and right away say, "Oh my gosh! This tank is defective! I can't get it stable and it's leaking!! I will take it right away back to the supply house!" Or did he say, "There you go," take your check, and only start making excuses about the tank being defective when you called him to describe your problem? I'm guessing the latter. That he would have left your house with the tank flapping against the wall behind the toilet is an indication that he didn't do it right. I would get a different installer, or supervisor from the same company, or install the tank yourself. If the base is done correctly (is it?), then the tank part shouldn't be too physically-demanding.

Let me ask a simple question: when you look in the tank, did the "installer" put just the rubber washers under the bolt head? Or did he put the metal washers AND the rubber washers in the tank? That's a common handyman mistake, and it leads to leaks. If you don't know, shoot us a picture.
 
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Reach4

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You could initially count how many threads are below each nut as a guide to see if one side is tightened more than the other.
 
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