Supply lines other than braided flexible lines?

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betaflame

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I've been all over the internet, and everyone just uses those, even though they have a limited life with nasty failures when they finally go.

I need to replace most of the compression valves (the oval head type) with Brasscraft KT ball-valves anyway, and am going to replace the supply lines with something more reliable at the same time.

I've finally just settled on using copper supply lines, because it's not that much more expensive than PEX, and it's extremely tested and reliable.

Now, my question is HOW to do it. I haven't been able to find any guides online, either video or text.

From looking at an old faucet, it looks like it's soft 3/8 OD copper into a rubber cone washer and plastic friction washer with the pipe itself beaded with a special tool on the end to keep it from backing out.

An easier method might be me using a 3/8 OD compression to 1/2 FIP adapter.

TL;DR: What is the best way to connect soft copper tubing from the supply valves to the faucets?

Is there a better solution (
ex. using hard copper/rigid supply lines from HD/lowes)?
 

Jeff H Young

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I use the chrome supply lines with a formed cone end in liew of the cone washers with a 3/8 compression anglestop.
The other method is supply tubing with the correct washers and a tool is used to raise a bead that will prevent it from blowing off. the washer to use is brass never used a plastic washer.
The later method with supply tubing seems a little obsolete I don't use that method often

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betaflame

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I saw that, but it says "I am not a plumber" and seems to be someone guessing what might work.

I am looking for plumbers that are familiar with these.

I use the chrome supply lines with a formed cone end in liew of the cone washers with a 3/8 compression anglestop.
These?: https://www.homedepot.com/p/3-8-in-x-20-in-Copper-Faucet-Riser-1-20A-CF/100621865
 

Jeff H Young

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betaflame, Today I use braided hoses 50 to one solid line.
Its no guess braided are very common . but when it comes to a solid supply I prefer the one you showed in home depot ad with the formed head.
unless you need extra long supplies go with the "copper supply riser" note this won't work with toilets
 

Mr tee

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I like copper. Be sure to use a friction ring and you can distort the end of the tubing a bit with a screwdriver so it can't pull out.
 

betaflame

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I like copper. Be sure to use a friction ring and you can distort the end of the tubing a bit with a screwdriver so it can't pull out.

You mean like sort of flaring it with a large screwdriver?

I just discovered that faucets are 1/2 NPS and not 1/2 NPT, which basically requires the use of some form of soft(er) material to maintain a seal.

For example, in my OP I said: "An easier method might be me using a 3/8 OD compression to 1/2 FIP adapter."
This probably would eventually leak due to the NPS FIP fitting on the faucet.

Thanks, this is all great information.

Right, so if I'm going to attach either the rigid line from HD/lowes, or soft copper flared a bit via Mr tee's method to keep it from backing out... What parts (cone washers/friction rings/coupling nuts) do I need to perform a proper connection to the 1/2 NPS thread on the faucet itself?

Ex: https://www.supplyhouse.com/Brasscraft-SF0459-Faucet-Supply-Kit-w-3-8-OD-Cone-Washers-1-2-Nuts
https://www.ferguson.com/product/14-in-x-20-ft-type-l-hard-copper-tube-lhardb20/_/R-1166
 
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Mr tee

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You don't have to flare the copper, just make it a little bit oval so the friction ring can't slide off.
 

betaflame

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Thanks. I think all the main questions have been answered.

Final question: Is there any reason not to use soft copper (vs hard copper)? They are currently the same price as well.
 
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