Single to Double Vanity Plumbing

[Jeff H Young]

not super critical to get exactly 1/4 per ft you can get called if its a little flat and running like 1/2 inch per foot isnt good either if the arm has more than a pipe diametor of fall inspector could fail it .
I dont usualy bother but if you have a lot of studs to drill Ill measure off the floor at 2 places and snap a chalk line or put a long level against the wall and mark center of holes with pencil then use a square to transfer the mark to the side of studs

 

[Reach4]

There are laser levels that can make things easier. I see a non-professional model for $50. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Bosch-3...-Device-and-Carrying-Pouch-GLL-30-S/207134022

A bubble level and a chalk line can certainly do the job cheaper, but the laser level can be handy. Expect the lower-end ones to not be usable outdoors during the day due to the limited brightness.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Nav360]

Finally got around to finish the drain plumbing! Added in some stud shoes since I had to bore some holes through to run the pipe. Next on the list is getting the PEX to copper stub outs, and electrical finished! Oh if anyone is curious about the excessive primer it's because my brush broke at the worst time.....

Getting the correct slope was easier than I expected using a digital level, also tilted back the quarter bend fittings slightly.

 

[wwhitney]

Finally got around to finish the drain plumbing!

Looks good! How'd you get the vertical stack glued up without any banded rubber couplings? Does the vent hit a 90 above the wall plate, with a run through a joist bay, allowing you to temporarily lift the whole vent pipe as required for the joint makeup?

I don't know if anyone else does this, but when use PVC pressure pipe for condensate drain, for 90s I use two 45s to give a more gradual sweep. They do actually make a long sweep pressure 90, those are harder to get.

Cheers, Wayne

 

[Nav360]

Looks good! How'd you get the vertical stack glued up without any banded rubber couplings? Does the vent hit a 90 above the wall plate, with a run through a joist bay, allowing you to temporarily lift the whole vent pipe as required for the joint makeup?

I don't know if anyone else does this, but when use PVC pressure pipe for condensate drain, for 90s I use two 45s to give a more gradual sweep. They do actually make a long sweep pressure 90, those are harder to get.

Cheers, Wayne

Yep, the vent had some play from above so I was able to lift it a couple inches to get it glued in. I was debating between the 45, and 90 on the condensate drain but the 90 gave me the perfect height. It didn't even cross my mind to glue two 45's lol.

I still need to locate a hose that has the perfect inside diameter to go over 3/4 PVC. The current hose won't budge anymore to get a proper fit, even tried heating it up to see if that would help but no luck,

 

[wwhitney]

I still need to locate a hose that has the perfect inside diameter to go over 3/4 PVC. The current hose won't budge anymore to get a proper fit, even tried heating it up to see if that would help but no luck,

Glue in a barbed fitting designed to accept a hose of a specific ID; presumably your tailpiece wye adapter has a barbed fitting for a particular ID hose, so match it. Optionally redo the 90 while you are at it.

Cheers, Wayne

 

[Nav360]

Glue in a barbed fitting designed to accept a hose of a specific ID; presumably your tailpiece wye adapter has a barbed fitting for a particular ID hose, so match it. Optionally redo the 90 while you are at it.

Cheers, Wayne

I originally planned on using a barb fitting, but couldn't find one locally at all near me. I'll check around again

 

[Nav360]

@wwhitney Plan fixing the 90 today, but curious did you mean replace the 90 with two 45's or leave the 90, and use two 45's to give it an angle at the end?

 

[wwhitney]

@wwhitney Plan fixing the 90 today, but curious did you mean replace the 90 with two 45's or leave the 90, and use two 45's to give it an angle at the end?

The former. Wayne

 

[Nav360]

PEX plumbing done! I had to split the 1/2" PEX to both sinks if I had the option I would've ran new 3/4". Just need to do some blocking between the studs, and I should be ready for drywall. I plan on adding additional fire block foam to the top plate to seal those penetrations, but was curious if it's ok to add standard expanding foam to the holes in the studs where the PVC, and PEX runs through.