Part of the news is that Max feature. It seems SharkBite has modified their push-to-connect ends to be stronger while having a lower insertion force required. "Half the insertion effort, double the burst pressure."
For my project that got me looking, I have a soldered-in 3/4 inch multi-turn valve after my pressure tank. I found that it does not stop the flow. This is not a killer, in that I can turn off the pump, and drain the pressure. That way I was able to complete my task yesterday. But still, I would like to have a functioning stop valve there. I was thinking that the SharBite Max Slip Ball Valve part UR24736 will be just the ticket.
The existing valve is about 2.5 inches long, and allowing for some solder at the ends, I think I could slice out about a 3.5 inch piece of pipe+valve. If that would let me insert the new valve, that would be good. How big of a gap will the new valve need/tolerate? Only 2.4 inches, as it turns out, so this can only do part of the job for me. https://s3.amazonaws.com/s3.supplyhouse.com/product_files/sharkbite-UR24736-submittal.pdf I would need to cut out my existing valve, add something to extend the pipe to give the needed gap. I could solder an extension to the top of the gap. Or I could use a Sharkbite coupling to add an extension piece of 3/4 inch copper pipe.
I guess it could be possible to cut the pipe below the old valve, heat the top of the valve, displace the valve to the side, and pull the old valve off. Then try to clean the end of the top pipe of solder well enough to accept the valve and have my 2.4 inch gap.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/SharkBi...-to-Connect-Slip-Ball-Valve-UR24736/323676166
The bottom of the gap is near a PVC adapter, so I would not want that to get heated.
For my project that got me looking, I have a soldered-in 3/4 inch multi-turn valve after my pressure tank. I found that it does not stop the flow. This is not a killer, in that I can turn off the pump, and drain the pressure. That way I was able to complete my task yesterday. But still, I would like to have a functioning stop valve there. I was thinking that the SharBite Max Slip Ball Valve part UR24736 will be just the ticket.
The existing valve is about 2.5 inches long, and allowing for some solder at the ends, I think I could slice out about a 3.5 inch piece of pipe+valve. If that would let me insert the new valve, that would be good. How big of a gap will the new valve need/tolerate? Only 2.4 inches, as it turns out, so this can only do part of the job for me. https://s3.amazonaws.com/s3.supplyhouse.com/product_files/sharkbite-UR24736-submittal.pdf I would need to cut out my existing valve, add something to extend the pipe to give the needed gap. I could solder an extension to the top of the gap. Or I could use a Sharkbite coupling to add an extension piece of 3/4 inch copper pipe.
I guess it could be possible to cut the pipe below the old valve, heat the top of the valve, displace the valve to the side, and pull the old valve off. Then try to clean the end of the top pipe of solder well enough to accept the valve and have my 2.4 inch gap.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/SharkBi...-to-Connect-Slip-Ball-Valve-UR24736/323676166
The bottom of the gap is near a PVC adapter, so I would not want that to get heated.
Last edited:
