No they don't say that at all. The specs say it requires a minimum of 700 CUBIC feet (, say, 10' x 10' x 7'), preferably in a semi-conditioned space.....
Thanks Dana! That is incredibly helpful info. I definitely misread the specs. Although I knew the heat pumps had a min operating temp before switching to electric, I did not realize there was a max operating temperature.
Today was a good old fashioned scorcher with mid-upper 90s and 110 heat index. Above average temps. So good day for attic tempt test. Heat gun showed 120-140 depending on where I pointed it with 125 in the area of where the heater will be. Cheap weather thermometer placed on top of the current heater where the new one will also be registered 116.
Our January average low is 32 and average high is 50. Average low in Feburay and December is 36 with Highs in the mid 50s.
So with the Rheem I'm looking at that has confirmed specs of 37-145 operating temps, it should be most of the year on heat pump mode except for some days and nights during the winter.
It is my understanding from your post that even though an ice plug might melt before it gets warm enough for the heat pump to be within temp range, there is a possibility under the right conditions that the ice plug could get large enough that it wouldn't melt in time to drain condensate?
If I can't run it outside and a pump won't work I MIGHT be able to run 3/4 pipe down my wet wall(only 1ft. away) so that I can drain the condensate into the guest vanity. I wish the wall behind the guest bath was still open or I had considered the heat pump heater when it was open. Then it would be easy to run the piping. The guest vanity has some holes already in it from plumbing work that was done before I bought the house. Won't be hard to remove the panels I covered them with.
I'm beginning to think that the best thing to do, if I can, is to tie the condensate line into the vanity trap by running it down the wet wall?