Residential Service Pipe and rating

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KamakazyPlumber

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I am T-splicing into an existing 1 "service line from a shared well. It serves two residences and I am adding a small 900SF house to the system. I believe the existing in ground poly is SIDR 11. I am going to use the same size pipe and t connect it with brass, barbed connectors. The pressure from the tank in the pump house is 60/40 so 160 psi pipe should do. I don't think I need SIDR 7 since this is on the low pressure side of the tanks.. I did use SIDR 7 on the well side of the line at my daughters house when I built it.

It is about 300 ft from ea. residence to the pump house.

Does make good sense or should I use thicker pipe and ford type compression connectors?

Thanks
 

John Gayewski

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I think it would be nice to have a curb stop type shut off for this addition to the system. To me it makes sense to use some good quality fittings at least until the shutoff. After that it's probably less important.
 

Jeff H Young

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I was going to say go with 7 but I see a big price differance if the soil is clean no rocks roots stresses on pipe earth movement I suppose it might be better to save the money on the pipe on the fittings 2 couplings Think Id use the ford coupling
 

Reach4

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I think your reasoning is good, and 160 psi SIDR 11.5 should be sufficient.

Do not pull the pipe tight, especially if the weather is warm. You want to allow for contraction as the pipe approaches freezing near the frost line.

You might also consider adding a yard hydrant, while you are digging etc.

https://www.menards.com/main/search.html?search=sidr does not sell into your area, but I find it to be a good representation of what is available at a good price.
 

Jeff H Young

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FYI, 1" SIDR 11 poly pipe appears to have an ID of 1.049". Then at 300 ft, the pressure drops for 5, 10, and 15 gpm are 2, 7.2, and 15.2 psi, respectively. So depending on the demand at the 900 sq ft house, you may wish to upsize the 300 ft run.


Cheers, Wayne
Does that chart meet UPC code sizing? Agree Wayne he should check pipe sizing, He didnt comment on how or why he is running 1 inch So I assume he has sized it but perhaps not . definately he should check the numbers if he hasent done so
 

Reach4

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I agree that making the pipe bigger after the pressure tank to run a long distance makes sense. You could have 3/4 inch before the pressure tank, and there is probably not a real downside. But since the pressure regulation is at the pressure tank, then bigger pipe, such as 1-1/4, after the pressure tank makes good sense too.
 
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Jeff H Young

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That's not a chart, that's a calculator that just uses distance, material, ID, and flow rate to give you the pressure drop from frictional losses.

Cheers, Wayne

Sorry right its a calculator not a chart. you dont add up fixture units and then use upc data ? just wondering for your main you add up fixture units and convert to gpm and then use the Calculator? what about length to the farthest fixture back to the meter or pump house?
 

wwhitney

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Sorry right its a calculator not a chart. you dont add up fixture units and then use upc data
Sure, it looks like UPC 610 uses mandatory language, so you have to use that section and/or Appendix A.

And the approach of using tables is fine for an approximate overview, but it's not super accurate. The calculator gives you a more exact estimation of one piece of the puzzle; if you use it carefully for every part of the whole piping system, you'll probably get a more accurate answer than the tables. But I was using the calculator just as a gut check on the 300' water lateral sizing.

Cheers, Wayne
 

Jeff H Young

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kinda gotten a little rusty on sizing I hit pretty close , And I will oversize a little.
 
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