Replacing/Upgrading Dead Fleck

[Haarstad]

Hi All-
My 17 year-old, 12-day Fleck 5600 valve head died in the typical manner (stuck in backwash, timer not moving). It was manufactured and put into service when we built the house in 2001. We were told by the builder to simply push out the pins equal to the number of persons living in the house, and add salt when it was low. That's what we did for 17 years. Now, I'm researching repair/replace/upgrade options. Here are the details I know so far, and I would be interested in hearing some opinions, because I've reached analysis-paralysis!

Presently, three adults live in the upper two floors of our 3500sf home, and two adults and two little dogs live in the finished 1800sf basement. In the summers, my son will be home from college, making six adults (I include the dogs, because they bathe, too). There are five toilets and four showers in the house.

Current system is a 8 X 44 inch resin tank with Fleck 12-day 5600 valve head, set at 10lbs salt regen, five regens per 12 days

City water with hardness of 21 grains, per city report. Chlorine is present and noticeable in water odor. Iron is removed by city (they say there are 'trace' amounts.

I'm pretty sure now, that my system is undersized, the resin is depleted, the valve head needs to be rebuilt, or better.

I've been considering sizing up the resin tank and it was recommended to me to buy a 10 X 54 inch tank (48,000 grains), and getting a new Fleck 5600 metered head. Then, converting the existing 8 X 44 inch tank to activated carbon filter, installed before the softener.

The salesman I spoke with said this all could be done. He said that the 10 X 54 inch tank would be 'cutting it close,' but would be fine. He recommended an in/out head on the carbon filter, with bypass, of course. Reading here, I've become anxious whether we've got the numbers right, there are so many opinions coupled with math and science, that my head spins.

I am wondering if, for $14 more than the cost of the head, if I should rebuild the 5600, 12 day head for auto backwashing of the carbon media.

I hope this is enough to go on. There is no problem installing the system myself. It's the sizing and settings, and programming that I am most concerned with. And money...kids in college, looming retirement...

Thanks in advance for your kind assistance!
Laura

 

[ditttohead]

I like your thoughts. Convert the softener head to a backwash, backwash the carbon every 12 days. The 5600 head has another 20 years in it if you rebuild it. The 8x44 is undersized for your application but it will work just fine. Don't worry about it being undersized, this is more technical than anything else. A 8x44 tank will reduce chlorine significantly as well as many other contaminants. The 10x54 softener will be a huge improvement over the 8x44.

Sounds like you got it! is you local guy offering you a reasonable price and is he competent? if so, I would go for it.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Reach4]

The salesman I spoke with said this all could be done. He said that the 10 X 54 inch tank would be 'cutting it close,' but would be fine.

Reasonable assessment. 2 or 2.5 cubic ft would be a better match based on people+dogs. A better measure of your water use might be your water meter gallons per month when you are not watering the lawn.

Then, converting the existing 8 X 44 inch tank to activated carbon filter, installed before the softener.

That would work if the city uses chlorine rather than chloromine. If your city uses chloromine, you would want catalytic carbon and probably bigger. Your tank holds only 0.75 cubic ft of media. Even with good resin, as a softener, you would be regenerating every day or two.

I am wondering if, for $14 more than the cost of the head, if I should rebuild the 5600, 12 day head for auto backwashing of the carbon media.

I think you are comparing to converting the 9 inch tank to upflow. You would want a bigger DLFC if you converted.

I am not a pro.

 

[Haarstad]

Phew! So glad I'm on the right track! Thanks so much.

@dittohead:
1. You said "convert the softener head to a backwash." Do you mean use it for backwash, or do I need to actually convert something (besides changing the DLFC to a larger one)?
2. My dealer isn't local. I'm looking to source the parts from two online dealers for the best prices,...(should I run their names through you? I've heard about cheap knock-offs, etc) I am confident in the prices. Not sure about quality of carbon and resin and whether there is a difference I should be concerned about. Should I reply here with my shopping list and suppliers, direct message you, or just wing it?

@Reach4: Thanks for the prompt to check water bill. It looks like we use 240-250 gal/day, not including summer watering. I think the 250 number is with seven people in the house. That's better than I thought, really.

@Reach4 or @dittohead:
1. Does this usage number improve my scenario? This is from the city's website: "The city adds 0.2 to 0.4 parts per million of chlorine..."
2. What size DLFC would I use for the carbon filter head?
3. I'll need help programming the meter on the new valve head...please and thank you...

I'm in awe at your timely responses and kindness in replying! Thanks so much from me, my family, and my dishes and laundry, too!

Laura

 

[ditttohead]

I will send you a PM. I don't like using names in an open forum, I would hate to say one of my customers is good here, then one of my other customers calls me to say why didn't I mention them...

As to the valve, you would definitely want to rebuild the valve with the correct components. You would also need to plug the brine system, plug the injector etc... all very simple.

 

[Reach4]

What size DLFC would I use for the carbon filter head?

I would have to check further, but I am thinking maybe 3 to 4 GPM for an 8 inch tank. 3 gpm may be fine for cold MN water. An 8 inch softener backwashes at 1.5 gpm.