Replacing shower drum trap

[TomMar]

Is it possible to remove a drum trap from next to a shower without damaging the floor? It is the kind with the lid accessable from the floor. The lid has a recessed square hole. The drain is very slow.

I was thinking I could open up the ceiling below and cut/remove the pipe on either side of the trap and then replace with a p trap. Will the drum trap just drop down after removing the pipe?

Thanks!

 

[Terry]

Only way to know is to try it.
Normally the drum is off to the side, and it looks like yours is too.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Reach4]

It's not what you asked, but you could probably keep the trap and make it function. You could try removing the cap, and cleaning the trap. Then rod the output of the trap through the side of the trap.

Removing the cap may involve taking a chisel to the trap cap, and putting on a new cap.

 

[TomMar]

It's not what you asked, but you could probably keep the trap and make it function. You could try removing the cap, and cleaning the trap. Then rod the output of the trap through the side of the trap.

Removing the cap may involve taking a chisel to the trap cap, and putting on a new cap.

This is exactly what I did. I chiseled off the brass cap and vacuumed out the debris. Then I rodded out both sides of the trap while the shower was running. I am replacing the cap after it arrives tomorrow. Thanks for the sane advice!

 

[TomMar]

It's not what you asked, but you could probably keep the trap and make it function. You could try removing the cap, and cleaning the trap. Then rod the output of the trap through the side of the trap.

Removing the cap may involve taking a chisel to the trap cap, and putting on a new cap.

Any idea how I attach the cover plate to the brass trap cover? From the look of it, I should be able to attach with a screw, but the screw hole is not tapped. Is there a trick here to tapping that screw?

 

[Reach4]

Use a pilot hole. Lube the tap. Search for the right lube and pilot holes size. You may have a friend with a drill press to make it easier to drill without breaking bits or getting a lot off center.

If you had bought plastic, the drilling and tapping would have been a little easier.

 

[nor]

I have a drum trap just like the 1st pic. Drill bits don't seem to work, very slow. Bits are new, drill is fast. What kind of brass? is it.

 

[Reach4]

Try a magnet on that cover, just to make sure it is brass and not steel.

Try a better drill bit with a slow drill. I presume you don't have a drill press. Use a center punch to keep the bit from skittering around when you get started. Sometimes it is good to start drilling with a smaller bit, and then go to the bigger bit.

 

[nor]

Try a magnet on that cover, just to make sure it is brass and not steel.

Try a better drill bit with a slow drill. I presume you don't have a drill press. Use a center punch to keep the bit from skittering around when you get started. Sometimes it is good to start drilling with a smaller bit, and then go to the bigger bit.

It is not steel, tried magnet earlier.
I started a couple of holes. I do not want to go through yet (Water from sink backs up). Any recommendations for a good drill bit?

 

[Reach4]

I do not want to go through yet (Water from sink backs up).

I don't understand what you are saying there. Are you saying you are trying to make a blind hole? Tapping a blind hole is harder; you need two taps-- a regular tap and a bottoming tap. A through hole is easier.

Any recommendations for a good drill bit?

The Milwauke, Dewalt, and probably others are good. Try to get curls of material coming up. Go slow. Apply pressure. Don't wiggle.

Have you picked your tap size? That determines what size drill you will need.

 

[nor]

Thanks, I bought a plastic lid. It has the set-up (threaded).
My problem is/was the lid itself.