Replacing main water line cutoff valve

[CorwinOlson]

I have a broken main water line cutoff valve that needs replacing, see photos. I want to replace it with a sturdy ball valve that will (hopefully) last much longer than this valve did. Given my (quite) limited plumbing skills/experience, I've got a number of questions on how to do this:

• Is the connection from the valve to the copper pipe (coming from the water meter at the bottom of the photo) a screw-on connection? Can I just get a couple big wrenches and twist it off? Or is it soldered? The plumber that installed it a few years ago seemed to prefer soldering over other methods, but I can't recall what he did (or wasn't present), and I can't for the life of me tell if it's soldered or not.
• What is the best way to disassemble this setup, especially to start? Should I cut the blue PEX in the middle and then try to twist off the valve? Then how best to reassemble?
• If it's a twist on, how do I ensure the new valve handle ends upward facing?
• How do I remove the press connection loops on the PEX? Especially for the connection to the copper pipe (versus the connection to the valve)? I'm assuming I'll need to somehow pry that off in order to replace with new PEX
• Could this 3/4" PEX be introducing supply problems to the house?

My nominal plan right now: cut the PEX in the middle (necessary?), twist off the old valve (perhaps using something to penetrate the connection like WD40 so it's not super difficult to twist off? Googling indicates WD40 is fine even though it's our water supply...), put on a new good quality ball valve (sharkbite connection on one or both sides?), then connect via a PEX tube from the valve to the copper pipe leading to the house (using the appropriate copper to PEX adapters, and clamps that I crimp with a crimp tool).

Relevant Measurements:

• First pipe from meter: 1" exterior
• PEX: about 3/4", maybe slightly wider
• Pipe to house: about 3/4", maybe slightly wider

Tools I'm getting to tackle this project (returning anything I don't end up needing probably):

• New ball valve, perhaps sharkbite on one or both sides
• 3/4" PEX tubing - only small amount needed!
• PEX Crimp tool (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LWR4T6Q/)
• Crimp rings, I think 3/4" (right?)
• Copper to PEX adapter, for 1" copper pipe and 3/4"
  • Maybe also get some shark bite couplers, just in case?
• PEX cutting tool (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01C8G4F7M/)
• Copper pipe cutting tool just in case (small wheel thing, right?)
• A couple really big wrenches for twisting/prying the valve off of the pipe
• Hacksaw if the copper cutting tool doesn't work
• Teflon thread seal tape, liquid pipe thread sealant (need both?)

Am I missing anything?

Thanks in advance!

 

[Dj2]

1. Maybe I'm mistaken, but it looks like your main line from the meter is not copper, and if it's galvanized, consider replacing it with copper.
2. Don't bury your new main shut off valve, and install it closed to the building on the riser above grade.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[CorwinOlson]

Thought I would follow up, for the record if anyone else finds this post with a similar problem.

I ended up primarily following the instructions at https://www.familyhandyman.com/plumbing/valves/home-repair-how-to-replace-the-main-shut-off-valve/ (I could not find a single YouTube video of how to replace a cut-off valve next to the water meter, as shown in this article), because I finally realized I could unscrew the connecting nut for the pipe attached to the water meter.

Unfortunately after replacing the valve, it turned out to be just a tad longer than the previous valve, and thus the pipe no longer fit! I was terribly frustrated, but realized I would have to take out the current PEX piping.

After attempting (and failing) to remove the PEX press connections, I ended up cutting the copper pipe going to the house just beyond the adapter using a small copper pipe cutter (because I’m pretty sure that was a welded connection), attaching a ¾” sharkbite-to-sharkbite connector, then the pex into that, then a pex ¾” to male ¾” threaded connector (along with a crimp to secure it), which I plugged into my new ¾” valve. See picture (and the frog that decided to photo-bomb me!). Took forever to get the PEX pipe length correct, but eventually I got it (after screwing and unscrewing the adapters what felt like a dozen times, each time adding the pipe thread sealant and getting it all over my hands).

It was a hell of a project that took me about 4 to 5 hours, and I’m sure a professional could have done it in less than 30 minutes. But I seriously expanded my comfort zone, and developed a lot of great plumbing skills!

 

[Lightningwill]

If you're planning on burying this, that's a bad idea. If you're planning on leaving this exposed to the elements, that's a bad idea.

What is your plan for protecting the new stuff you just installed?

 

[CorwinOlson]

If you're planning on burying this, that's a bad idea. If you're planning on leaving this exposed to the elements, that's a bad idea.

What is your plan for protecting the new stuff you just installed?

Hi Lightningwill, so right now I'm planning to place some kind of plastic shell over the valve and then fill in the surrounding hole with dirt. Then put a cap on the shell so I can access the valve easily later. Which is how it's done with pretty much every house I've seen here in Austin, TX (where it rarely freezes). But I've also had two of these valves break on me in the 6 years we've been in this house. Any recommendations for how I might better protect it, especially that aren't super expensive?

 

[Reach4]

Any recommendations for how I might better protect it, especially that aren't super expensive?

You might post a wider shot that shows more of that pvc pipe and the meter box. Some kind of valve box would be the norm. But how will that clear the existing meter box and PVC thing? Maybe just cut away the walls where there is interference.

 

[CorwinOlson]

You might post a wider shot that shows more of that pvc pipe and the meter box. Some kind of valve box would be the norm. But how will that clear the existing meter box and PVC thing? Maybe just cut away the walls where there is interference.

Thanks Reach4, I haven't had a chance to get a wider shot, but I was able to find a nice valve box like this at Lowe's amazingly easily. And I was thinking the same thing, I plan to just cut away the minimal amount for it to fit next to the meter and my neighbor's old PVC cover, and still cover my new valve well. Getting close!

 

[CorwinOlson]

A final follow up, showing how I covered the new valve. I ended up purchasing a nice valve cover from Lowe’s and cutting away a small part of it with a sawzall to fit around the pipe better. Then just filled in the hole around it! Pretty pleased with the result.