Questionable Pipe Joints in Shower Drain

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Martina

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I'm an avid DIYer and although I work diligently and try to do things right, I occasionally mess things up, so please don't come down too hard on me for the following scenario. :)

I'm amidst a bathroom remodel which required me to significantly cut back the shower drain pipe, add a 2" coupler and new DWV riser. After cutting back the piping, I was literally left with 1" of exposed 2" piping to which I could attach my coupling. The cut was very clean and I sanded it down prior to applying primer and glue. What I failed to do was check that it was level. I glued in the coupler, held it down for 10+ seconds and immediately afterwards glued in my 2' DWV riser, which I also held down for over 10 seconds for it to grip. I then grabbed my level and noticed it was out of plumb. Given that I initially only had 1" of exposed PVC to attach the coupler, I knew any further fixes would include having to bust out more concrete to fully expose the P-trap and replace the whole assembly.

In my panic, I made adjustments to the pipe while the cement was in the drying process. I know that wasn't textbook, but that's all I could think of to do. Per the instructions, I had applied a liberal coat of cement with a second follow-up coat. It appeared that things hadn't fully dried as I was still able to make adjustments, but it did require a little pressure. After leveling the pipe, I applied additional cement around the joints and left everything to dry. About 6 hours later, I ran some water through it with no leaks whatsoever.

My question is, is there a way to ensure that the joints are properly sealed before closing up the hole? I contemplated applying a water-activated fiberglass wrap to the joints in question as a safety measure, but wasn't sure if that's the right approach. Please see attached photograph for configuration and let me know your thoughts. Thank you!
 

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Sylvan

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Buy a 2" No hub coupling then add a piece of 2" PVC 3 FEET or more in height and attract the coupling to the PVC attached to the P trap

Get a Garden hose and run full blast down the 2" stand pipe and see it anything leaks ( do not forget to tighten the no hub coupling
 

Martina

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Buy a 2" No hub coupling then add a piece of 2" PVC 3 FEET or more in height and attract the coupling to the PVC attached to the P trap

Get a Garden hose and run full blast down the 2" stand pipe and see it anything leaks ( do not forget to tighten the no hub coupling
Hi Sylvan! Thanks so much for your response and advice. I currently have about 17" of piping above ground level (see attached photograph). My initial picture did not show that. Do I still need to extend the piping with a no hub coupling or does the current configuration suffice for the garden hose test? Thank you!
 

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Sylvan

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What we wanted to do is to put as much volume in the waste line as possible to test the joint.

Water flowing by gravity would normally came no where close to the volume placed in with a garden hose

17" would be enough .

An added benefit would make sure the lines are clear
 

Martina

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What we wanted to do is to put as much volume in the waste line as possible to test the joint.

Water flowing by gravity would normally came no where close to the volume placed in with a garden hose

17" would be enough .

An added benefit would make sure the lines are clear
Fantastic! Headed to HD now to get what I needed. Thank you so much for your help. Much appreciated!
 

Martina

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Hi Sylvan! I just ran the water pressure test (see attached image). I hope this is what you were talking about. I also got some adapters for the top to directly connect the garden hose to it. We ran the exterior faucet at full pressure and found no leaks. Everything also seems to be draining well as I didn't feel any considerable amount of pressure on the PVC piping. With everything in order, I suppose it's safe to seal up the hole or would you suggest any type of additional safety measure such as fiberglass wrap or other sealant around the joints just in case? Thank you!
 

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