Outdoor faucet

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PMA

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I want to install a new outdoor faucet in a 50 year brick house, and am debating whether to put in a frost-free faucet or not. The two existing faucets are not frost-free. Is there a difference in the size of the hole needed to be drilled through the house with a standard faucet or a frost-free one? I have a 1/2' hammer drill, but no bits larger than 5/8".
 

Ian Gills

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You will probably need to enlarge the hole a bit. When I replaced my old faucet on my 50 year house which was plumbed with 1/2 inch pipe to accomodate the 3/4 inch pipe on the new frost-free faucet I used a masonary bit to enlarge the hole. The bit needs to be long enough, but if it is too narrow you can still wiggle it in the hole to make the hole bigger.

I had a 3/4 inch hole drilled to accomodate my 1/2 inch pipe but this was still slightly too small to accomodate the 3/4 inch pipe with the threads at the end of the new faucet. So I used a 3/4 inch masonary bit and wiggled this in the hole to make it bigger. It took some time, but worked.

I hope this helps. You will need to be patient and drillling from both sides of the house will make life easier. Frost-free is the way to go. Just keep trying to poke the faucet through so you know what to drill out of the way next, without making a mess of the wall.

If you buy a new masonry drill bit, make sure it fits your drill.
 
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PMA

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Thanks

Good advice. The access inside the house is limited, so I will have to be patient. Also, I appreciate the thumbs up for frost free.
 

Construct30

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Frost frees are great, worth the extra work, just remember to always remove any hoses before freezing weather or they will still break.
 

Jadnashua

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1/2" nominal pipe has an OD of 5/8". I think the 3/4" is 7/8". If the body of the faucet is 3/4", a 1" would give you 1/16" clearance all around. If you have interior shutoffs, and you remember to use them, a regular hose bib would work, but it is safer to use a frost-free if it freezes where you live. Remember, though, if you leave a hose on the connection and it is plugged with say a sprayer nozzle, it will not be able to drain, and you'll still split things in a freeze. Basically, never leave a hose connected when it could freeze. Also, you want a little slope on the fixture so it can drain properly when you close it. Check the installation specs to see how much, and the range. Basically, it would probably work if it was level, but can't be sloped back into the house.
 

Herk

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The smallest bit I usually use for installing a frost-free hydrant is usually 1-1/4" - but I use the ones with the 3/4" male thread on the end and a 1/2" female thread inside that. The bit I normally use for all 1/2" and 3/4" water lines is 1-3/8 because that's the size of the plastic insulators.
 

Dunbar Plumbing

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All outside faucets including replacements are now required to be supplied with the minimum requirements for backflow prevention. (Vaccum Breaker)

This applies to KY starting the first of the year and this will finally keep some of these new construction plumbers from installing those $2.99 sillcoc.ks with the necessity of inside shutoffs....IF they happen to remember. :(

This should of been code required years ago.


Frost proof is what I've been installing for years; doesn't matter the climate, you can always draw water through the valve during all seasons.

Just don't leave a hose on it to freeze. :eek:
 

send

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When you upgrade or install outdoor faucet, call your plumbing inspector to check on local requirements. (You may need a permit, too.) Although plumbing codes and enforcement vary around the country, generally require.
 

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