New Symmons TA-10 cartridge and fluctuating hot water temp.

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Vtxrider

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After replacing a TA-10 cartridge, the hot water temp fluctuates from luke warm, a brief spot of cold and maybe hot few seconds. Mostly just luke warm. Also I can spin the valve a full revolution and a 1/4 more. Not sure why I get the 1/4 more turn. The stem and cap was screwed completely. I get hot from all sinks. Just installed new tank and set to 150. Tank was changed because of another unrelated problem. This problem was with old tank too. I've rebuilt the old cartridge and haven't tried it yet. I can also shake it and can hear it rattle.
 

Marlinman

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You will do best replacing the valve seats TA-4 using their T35C seat wrench set. Also make sure the packing nut is properly tightened to keep any side movement of the spindle.
The amount of rotation of the stem is determined by the limit stop screw in the cap.
upload_2021-12-24_10-54-45.jpeg
 

Vtxrider

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After replacing a TA-10 cartridge, the hot water temp fluctuates from luke warm, a brief spot of cold and maybe hot few seconds. Mostly just luke warm. Also I can spin the valve a full revolution and a 1/4 more. Not sure why I get the 1/4 more turn. The stem and cap was screwed completely. I get hot from all sinks. Just installed new tank and set to 150. Tank was changed because of another unrelated problem. This problem was with old tank too. I've rebuilt the old cartridge and haven't tried it yet. I can also shake it and can hear it rattle.
It's been quite awhile but still dealing with the luke warm water. Things I've done.
New spindles. Hot water pressure check, ok. Back flush. Front flush. Disconnected hot water line to tank and sinks. Rigged an air inlet to symmons valve. Blew 120lbs of air. I did fine a piece of hose washer that blew out of the lines. Had good air flow from lines so reconnected and checked for leaks. Still the same. The hot copper line is hot right to valve. Checked with infrared thermometer. Seems like the valve isn't mixing right. The one thing I've noticed is when you switch the diverter valve back and forth, the temperature changes. It has done this in the past. Oh that's been changed too.
 

Vtxrider

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It's been quite awhile but still dealing with the luke warm water. Things I've done.
New spindles. Hot water pressure check, ok. Back flush. Front flush. Disconnected hot water line to tank and sinks. Rigged an air inlet to symmons valve. Blew 120lbs of air. I did fine a piece of hose washer that blew out of the lines. Had good air flow from lines so reconnected and checked for leaks. Still the same. The hot copper line is hot right to valve. Checked with infrared thermometer. Seems like the valve isn't mixing right. The one thing I've noticed is when you switch the diverter valve back and forth, the temperature changes. It has done this in the past. Oh that's been changed too.
Any suggestions on this? Still dealing with the problem.
 

Vtxrider

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Any suggestions on this? Still dealing with the problem.
Finally got hot water. I bought a new valve. Nothing else help. Followed all the suggestions from here and other places. The cold seat was stripped bad and wouldn't seal. Couldn't move it even with a long Cresent wrench. So with the new valve on standby, I put a 3 ft long pipe on the Cresent wrench that had the #8 easy out. Took some pushing but it turned and got it out. Couldn't see anything blocking the valve or lines using a camera. I then front flushed again and immediately got hot water. Very hot. Thing is the water was clear. No sediment or anything. I didn't drain the tub to see anything. I previously back flushed 50 gallons along front flushing as said. With the water clear. I changed the hot seat. Rebuilt the fairly new spindle again and put back together. Checked the lines and valve for leaks. All good. Put all the chrome and handle back on. Now its works great. They say the seats have nothing to do with my problem but right after I changed it, hot water. At this point I don't care!
 
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