New pressure switch builds pressure until valve to house is opened.

[Kent Smith]

Hi, I have had low water pressure for a few weeks and started tracking things down. Started with the pressure switch since it was the cheapest component. When I went to remove the switch it sheared off the port and the port was completely clogged with rust. Bought a new switch and had to get a new port (3/4" male with 1/4" female and a 3" nipple). I rewired everything, drained the tank, filled the bladder to 28 psi for a 30/50 cut in, cut out and fired the system back up. The contacts were closed and the pump was running, but there was no pressure building. I closed the valve to the house and the system pressurized. I adjusted the cut in, cut out to almost spot on 30/50. I opened the valve to the house and the tank drained to 30 psi, the cut in started, but the pressure continued to drop. When it reached 25 psi there was a instant drop to 0 psi (the tank seemed to discharge all at once), then there was a rebound pressure up to 20 psi and then immediately back to 0 psi. I have no water at the house. This has been repeated several times trying to troubleshoot the issue. The pump house is 800' from my house. I tried opening faucets to purge air, but nothing has worked. I came to the conclusion that I must have a very large leak between the pump house and house, but I live in a very cold area and I think my line is 6'-8' feet deep, and I haven't found any wet spots (not sure it'll surface because it's very rocky soil). There have been a couple times that I've opened a faucet in the house and heard air escaping and some gurgling, which has me stumped since that seems like it would indicate a bit of pressurizing. And the instant tank discharge and short lived pressure rebound seems odd to me. If anyone has any suggestions I would certainly appreciate a different perspective.

Thanks, Kent.

 

[Valveman]

I think you are on the right track with a large leak in that 800' run. Sometimes you never see a wet spot as the water goes down in rocky soil. Call a leak detection company. You may also be able to pull a new line through the old line with a break up tool, but I never seen one done for 800'?

 

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[Reach4]

Hi, I have had low water pressure for a few weeks and started tracking things down. Started with the pressure switch since it was the cheapest component. When I went to remove the switch it sheared off the port and the port was completely clogged with rust. Bought a new switch and had to get a new port (3/4" male with 1/4" female and a 3" nipple). I rewired everything, drained the tank, filled the bladder to 28 psi for a 30/50 cut in, cut out and fired the system back up. The contacts were closed and the pump was running, but there was no pressure building. I closed the valve to the house and the system pressurized.

That would seem to say the leak is on the house side of the valve.

Submersible pump, I presume.