Need advice on drain pipe repair

[TSPORT]

Hi. My bathroom sink drain is clogged. The trap is removed. Tried the snake but it's not getting the job done. I can access the drain through the ceiling in the basement. I know that the vertical portion of the drain is open. 99.9% sure the horizontal pipe in the picture is clogged. I was going to try other techniques to clean it out but I noticed the top of the pipe in the center appears damp. I think it is rusting through from the inside. Looks like galvanized steel pipe (original owner painted everything). So now I'm thinking I will just cut it in the middle and unscrew the ends w/ a pipe wrench (they are threaded). Am I dreaming or do I actually stand a chance of busting loose this 53 year old pipe? I don't want to be breaking anything up in the wall behind the sink ( all tiled, etc.) Figured once it's off I can clean everything out real good from there before I patch or replace the pipe. Should I just cut out a section of it and then put one of those "rubber" collars over it? The pipe is about 1.5 inches in diameter. Thanks for your input..........TSPORT

 

[Ian Gills]

I will let a real plumber answer this one, but if your pipes are like mine (they are the same age) then you are not going to be able to unscrew anything.

I think a real plumber might cut, and replace with PVC and rubber couplings but let's see what they say. They would also need to replace the horizontal section with something that slopes, if it really is horizontal.

I would be tempted to try some bio-clean first, although I hear it will not clear a clog:

I use it but do not know if it works. My plumber recommended it after seeing the sludge build-up in my 50 year old pipes.

Does anyone have an opinion on bio-clean?

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Gary Swart]

Pipe that is that old may be very difficult to break loose. If it is rusted away on the inside, your wrench may just flatten the pipe without breaking the seal. I would get the paint off of the threads and then spray with PB Blaster and let is soak. Might even repeat the PB Blaster treatment a couple of times before trying the unscrew. The other possibility is to just get rid of the old pipe completely and replace with PVC.

 

[TMB9862]

You could probably cut it in half and break it loose. You will need a new length of pipe to replace it with and a union (can you use those on drain lines?). Figure a ten foot section of galvanized pipe will run you $60 or so and the union $8. If you don't have some good pipe wrenches (24in minimum) you'll need to go buy one possibly a second one to hold back to the tune of $120 a wrench.

or

Go the easy, cheap, and long lasting route and sawzall it out right above the elbow where it goes horizontal after coming out of the ceiling. Then cut it about four inches short of the stack. Now just rebuild the section using PVC and attach it to the galvanized with banded no hub clamps. Give yourself a clean out when you rebuild it too. The section in the wall will eventually need to be replaced but you should be able to get some years out of it.


Now is it not draining at all or draining slowly? If it's draining slowly I'd try some drain cleaner, if it's stopped I wouldn't use it. Is the snake coming back covered in black sludge?

 

[Geniescience]

looks like galvanized. If so, it has rusted inside, and the rough surface has also picked up 50 years of crud. Rust increases in size daily and shrinks the available diameter of whatever is remaining ooen. Rust is solid, unless force is applied to loosen it; that won't enable you to dislodge all those years of bits along that entire length. Unless you turn snaking into a daily pastime for a few months. The pipe cannot be salvaged or cleaned inside. That is my reading of your situation.

david

 

[TSPORT]

Now is it not draining at all or draining slowly? If it's draining slowly I'd try some drain cleaner, if it's stopped I wouldn't use it. Is the snake coming back covered in black sludge?

Thanks all for your input. The pipe is clogged at this point (will drain the sink after half hour or so) so I won't be putting in any chemical cleaners. There was plenty of black sludge & hair in there. As I mentioned, the pipe appears to be rusting through at the top so I am not going to waste any more time w/ the snake since I need to replace part of it anyway. Is it safe to say that the best way to proceed (without becoming a major project) is to replace the horizontal section w/ PVC pipe & clamps? (see pictures in initial post) Also, I do want to add a clean-out while doing this. Would that just be a "Y" with a cap or is there something specific I should buy? Anybody got a picture or diagram? Thanks again................TSPORT

 

[TMB9862]

The cleaner may help if you're getting lots of sludge. The black stuff is organic which is what the cleaner attacks. The snake will just punch right through the sludge though and it will close right back up was soon as the snake is removed since you're essentially trying to snake a liquid.

If you want to replace any of that section the best thing to do is replace as much of it as you can get to with PVC and clamps. It's silly to do a little section since the next one will rot out in a year.

As far as a clean out definatly wait for a second opinion but I'm thinking replace the elbow where is goes horizontal with a horizontally installed Tee-y and glue your clean out into that.

 

[TSPORT]

Thanks Marlin336. That horizontal pipe may look long in the picture but it is really only 1.5 ft long at the most. There is not much of a slope to it which probably contributed to my problem. I have no access to the vertical part upstream of the elbow. I guess I will cut it at each end leaving enough room for the clamps and PCV. Not too worried about the elbows and vertical pipe as I will be able to snake them pretty easy after I am done. Don't wan't to disturb more than I have to for fear of breaking something up in the wall or at the main waste pipe that I won't be able to deal with. .............TSPORT


........Anybody know what the trick is to getting a picture to appear in the post rather than as an attachment that has to be opened???

 

[Patrick88]

I will let a real plumber answer this one, but if your pipes are like mine (they are the same age) then you are not going to be able to unscrew anything.

I think a real plumber might cut, and replace with PVC and rubber couplings but let's see what they say. They would also need to replace the horizontal section with something that slopes, if it really is horizontal.

I would be tempted to try some bio-clean first, although I hear it will not clear a clog:

I use it but do not know if it works. My plumber recommended it after seeing the sludge build-up in my 50 year old pipes.

Does anyone have an opinion on bio-clean?

That stuff will work. If your drain will flow or slowly leach down the bio clean will open it up. It is not an acid based product so needs time.

 

[Terry]

Bio-Clean is what I'm using.
The stuff is so safe, you can eat out of the container, and yet it gets rid of the grease in the pipes.
It won't be eating the bottom of your pipes

If the lines are plugged up, you still may need to snake the lines, or if you have hair in them.
It takes time for the product to work.
Cathy was using this in her home for a few days, and when I went to snake her downstairs lav drain, the snake came back totally clean.
The city of Bellevue requires something like this for restaurants with grease, especially the KFC on Main Street.

 

[Redwood]

Youi would be surpised at the percentage of drains that I successfully snake clear with my snake that homeowners could not get through. When you do several a day with the right equipment its easy. Inexperienced with the wrong stuff you don't a snowballs chance in hell!

Another option is to cut out the clog and install a nice new pipe!

I consider the Bio-Clean to be more of a preventative maint. product.