When we were working on our bathroom remodel, the old cast iron closet flange was broken, so I had a handyman friend come by and look at it and he decided that because the old floor was mud and lathe 1" thick plus the tile, we should cut the pipe and remove the old flange, and then use a replacement closet flange. Once we were finished installing the Hardiebacker, thinset and tile, the top of the pipe was about 1/4" below the surface of the tile.
I went to Lowes and bought an Oatey Twist N Set Cast Iron Replacement Closet Flange. I was able to get the top few inches of the closet pipe cleaned enough to install the Twist N Set Closet Flange in place. We actually removed so much of the residue that we had to thread the rubber gasket upward a bit to get a grip on the sidewall of the pipe. The flange was resting comfortably on the floor with no wiggle and I turned it as tightly as I could by hand.
After I had the flange tightened, I used a Bosch Glass and Tile bit and drilled four holes through our new tile floor and then used screws to fasten the flange down. The screws reached into the subfloor.
After I was done, I used a standard wax ring and closet bolts to install the toilet. There was just a touch of a gap (1/16 to 1/8") between the base and the tile, so I installed toilet shims. Heeding advice I had been given on an earlier replacement, I did not caulk immediately so we could catch any leaks and not wind up with floor damage later.
This week, I noticed some water beading around the base of the toilet, and when I flushed it, the water increased.
I have not pulled the toilet yet, but I wanted to see if there is any chance that anything more is wrong than the wax seal being compromised? If I purchase a Fluidmaster Extra Thick Reinforced Wax Ring with Flange, should that be sufficient to resolve the issue?
Thanks,
Steve
I went to Lowes and bought an Oatey Twist N Set Cast Iron Replacement Closet Flange. I was able to get the top few inches of the closet pipe cleaned enough to install the Twist N Set Closet Flange in place. We actually removed so much of the residue that we had to thread the rubber gasket upward a bit to get a grip on the sidewall of the pipe. The flange was resting comfortably on the floor with no wiggle and I turned it as tightly as I could by hand.
After I had the flange tightened, I used a Bosch Glass and Tile bit and drilled four holes through our new tile floor and then used screws to fasten the flange down. The screws reached into the subfloor.
After I was done, I used a standard wax ring and closet bolts to install the toilet. There was just a touch of a gap (1/16 to 1/8") between the base and the tile, so I installed toilet shims. Heeding advice I had been given on an earlier replacement, I did not caulk immediately so we could catch any leaks and not wind up with floor damage later.
This week, I noticed some water beading around the base of the toilet, and when I flushed it, the water increased.
I have not pulled the toilet yet, but I wanted to see if there is any chance that anything more is wrong than the wax seal being compromised? If I purchase a Fluidmaster Extra Thick Reinforced Wax Ring with Flange, should that be sufficient to resolve the issue?
Thanks,
Steve