First time soldering, can this be trusted?

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PepeLePue

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Hi- Trying my luck with water heater install. So far nothing leaks but is that the end of the story? Can I feel comfortable that this isn’t going to pop a leak in few days or weeks? I left it pressurized/filled up the tank, and no signs of water anywhere.

Can I sleep at night or should I just redo this in propress? I have access to rent the tool and don’t mind spending the money on the fittings if it’s going to give me peace of mind.

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Tuttles Revenge

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They look good to me. The one with the slight pitting still looks like its complete.. but by this time you would know. How did it go?
 

PepeLePue

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Well it didn’t leak just scared to leave the water on. This is a renovation project so no one is there overnight. Worried it will spring a leak overnight
 

PepeLePue

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Awesome. Thank you. Have 2 other tanks to do, will be using propress this shit took way too long lol
 

PepeLePue

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They look good to me. The one with the slight pitting still looks like its complete.. but by this time you would know. How did it go?
The pitting you mean on the ball valve ? Just want to be clear which connection. Is there an easy way to fix/fill or only way to really fix it is remove?
 

PepeLePue

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Finished up all of the connections fired it up. Have hot water !

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The T&P discharge line is a drain that is hooked up directly to the tank and therefore your potable water supply. It is required that the end of the discharge line have an physical Airgap between its termination and the floor drain of at least 1.5".
 

Slomoola

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Nice work. Most important thing you did was wipe off the flux.

Just to nitpick, I would use more 45's if you could. Several spots you could of used them here. Or find some sweeping copper 90's. Keeps the flow up.

6534 looks to be rather globby with the solder. Less solder is more. Just like window cleaner.

My opinion, teflon tape is so 1984 for me. Use pipe dope. Again nitpicking from my chair LOL. Great job sir.
 

Fitter30

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Pic 6534 that's called capping the joint looks good. Question were u wearing cotton or jersey gloves? Did u touch any soldering surface with a bare hand or finger before soldering? Impressed gas drip leg piped correctly.
 

Slomoola

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Pic 6534 that's called capping the joint looks good. Question were u wearing cotton or jersey gloves? Did u touch any soldering surface with a bare hand or finger before soldering? Impressed gas drip leg piped correctly.
Call it what you like. Still can cause solder daming inside the pipe creating water flow turbulence and later pipe leaks. Again less is more.

I've seen a LOT worse far as using too much solder. This guy did a solid job.
 

PepeLePue

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The T&P discharge line is a drain that is hooked up directly to the tank and therefore your potable water supply. It is required that the end of the discharge line have a physical Airgap between its termination and the floor drain of at least 1.5".
Ok I can just cut it then just above the floor?
 

PepeLePue

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The T&P discharge line is a drain that is hooked up directly to the tank and therefore your potable water supply. It is required that the end of the discharge line have a physical Airgap between its termination and the floor drain of at least 1.5".
Ok I can just cut it then just above the floor? How do I keep it from falling down? Is there a good way to suspend it in air?
 

PepeLePue

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Pic 6534 that's called capping the joint looks good. Question were u wearing cotton or jersey gloves? Did u touch any soldering surface with a bare hand or finger before soldering? Impressed gas drip leg piped correctly.
I was bare handed. Should I wear gloves?
 

PepeLePue

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Nice work. Most important thing you did was wipe off the flux.

Just to nitpick, I would use more 45's if you could. Several spots you could of used them here. Or find some sweeping copper 90's. Keeps the flow up.

6534 looks to be rather globby with the solder. Less solder is more. Just like window cleaner.

My opinion, teflon tape is so 1984 for me. Use pipe dope. Again nitpicking from my chair LOL. Great job sir.
I used blue monster 1/2” tape (4–5 wraps) and then Megaloc blue dope
 

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Ok I can just cut it then just above the floor? How do I keep it from falling down? Is there a good way to suspend it in air?
You could use a copper 2 hole strap screwed to the water heater outer skin. Use 1/2" sheet metal screws. The tank should have around 2" of insulation between the skin and the tank.

I was bare handed. Should I wear gloves?
Probably, but I doubt you could contaminate a solder joint in such a manner.. I've never heard of this. Especially if you cleaned the joint area then applied flux and then soldered. That would remove any potential contaminates. I only started wearing gloves while soldering to keep the flux and contaminates on the pipe from getting on my hands. I have permanent callouses and skin cracking from exposure while soldering.

I used blue monster 1/2” tape (4–5 wraps) and then Megaloc blue dope
Using dope over tape is a wives tale. But if it worked it worked.
 

PepeLePue

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You could use a copper 2 hole strap screwed to the water heater outer skin. Use 1/2" sheet metal screws. The tank should have around 2" of insulation between the skin and the tank.


Probably, but I doubt you could contaminate a solder joint in such a manner.. I've never heard of this. Especially if you cleaned the joint area then applied flux and then soldered. That would remove any potential contaminates. I only started wearing gloves while soldering to keep the flux and contaminates on the pipe from getting on my hands. I have permanent callouses and skin cracking from exposure while soldering.


Using dope over tape is a wives tale. But if it worked it worked.
My normal process was clean the pipe with the drill attachment, apply flux, then put it into the fitting. I touched the pipe but unlikely that I touched it where the solder was going.

Thanks for the tip on the 1/2" screws. I was wondering how I would attach the condensate drain hose so that its not hanging loose.
 
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