Filling new pressure tank

[fitz75]

Hi guys. Thanks a million. Ok, going to install the tank today. Good weather and higher temps. Will do the compressor thing to force water out of the old tank. The thing I don't understand is... once I have everything hooked up again, and once I prime the system, will the pump then pressurize water into the new tank?

Oh, one other question. Yesterday when we tried to drain the tank, water was only trickling out, as air was intermittently going up the pipe to replace the water draining. Thing is, at that rate it would probably take 2 days for it all to drain. If I hook up my compressor to forcc the water out, seems like it would still do the same thing (air bleeding back up the pipe into the tank) Wouldn't it help to drill a hole at the top of the lower chamber? Seems like this would let air in so it wouldn't have to force it's way up the pipe.

 

[LLigetfa]

If I hook up my compressor to forcc the water out, seems like it would still do the same thing (air bleeding back up the pipe into the tank) Wouldn't it help to drill a hole at the top of the lower chamber? Seems like this would let air in so it wouldn't have to force it's way up the pipe.

The air delivered by the compressor will push the water out. The only time you need to drill a hole in the side of the tank is when the busted bladder/diaphragm blocks off the port on the bottom preventing it from draining.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Reach4]

Hi guys. Thanks a million. Ok, going to install the tank today. Good weather and higher temps. Will do the compressor thing to force water out of the old tank. The thing I don't understand is... once I have everything hooked up again, and once I prime the system, will the pump then pressurize water into the new tank?

Yes.

Oh, one other question. Yesterday when we tried to drain the tank, water was only trickling out, as air was intermittently going up the pipe to replace the water draining. Thing is, at that rate it would probably take 2 days for it all to drain. If I hook up my compressor to forcc the water out, seems like it would still do the same thing (air bleeding back up the pipe into the tank) Wouldn't it help to drill a hole at the top of the lower chamber? Seems like this would let air in so it wouldn't have to force it's way up the pipe.

I don't understand why air would be going up the pipe if you have the top pressurized.

Drilling a hole to let air in would not help vs having compressed air in the upper chamber. Increase air pressure there. Maybe to 80 psi. If that won't hold high pressure, keep pumping air as long as it is not overtaxing your compressor.

As LLigetfa said, holes in bottom of the upper chamber might be needed to let water out that had leaked up through the diaphragm and is now trapped in the top section.

 

[fitz75]

I don't understand why air would be going up the pipe if you have the top pressurized.

I don't understand why air would be going up the pipe if you have the top pressurized.

Hmmmm. Ok. Makes sense. Well, at this point, I'll just pressurize the tank and see what happens. I'll let you know if I have another problem. Thanks so much for taking the time to address my problem.

 

[fitz75]

Just thought of another question. My pressure switch is a 30/50, but I know there are other's such as 40/60. I am aware the pressure in the upper chamber should be 2 lbs lower than than the upper cut off(I think?). I've been told a new tank is factory set at the correct pressure, but how does the manufacturer know what pressure to set if there are different ratios available in switches? And how do I know if my tank is correct for my switch?

 

[Reach4]

Just thought of another question. My pressure switch is a 30/50, but I know there are other's such as 40/60. I am aware the pressure in the upper chamber should be 2 lbs lower than than the upper cut off(I think?). I've been told a new tank is factory set at the correct pressure, but how does the manufacturer know what pressure to set if there are different ratios available in switches? And how do I know if my tank is correct for my switch?

The tanks usually come pre-pressurized, but they expect the installer to adjust the air to the installation. If it comes too high, you only need to let air out rather than having to pull out the compressor.

If you were running 50/70, you would need to pull out the compressor because that would require a higher pressure than the tank would ship with. Air precharge is always set with the water pressure at zero.

For a submersible pump (way down in the well), you normally put the pressure 2 psi lower than the cut-on (30-2=28 for a 30/50 switch). For jet pumps that may require a lower precharge if the pressure drops momentarily when the pump starts. Some report 5 psi below is needed. I think you have a jet pump in your pit.

 

[LLigetfa]

I am aware the pressure in the upper chamber should be 2 lbs lower than than the upper cut off(I think?).

Wrong.
The preset needs to be below the cut-in pressure, not the cut off. 2 PSI for a submersible and 3 - 5 PSI for a jet.

 

[fitz75]

Hi guys. Ok, thanks. Taking a break. There's a Union on the pipe that goes to the tank. Old, rusty...couldn't get it to budge. Sprayed some PB Blaster on it and letting it set for half hour. If it don't break loose...well, I'll cut the pipe, pull the tank out and replace all the pipes and union in that section. Just crossing my fingers the Union busts loose.

 

[Reach4]

Hi guys. Ok, thanks. Taking a break. There's a Union on the pipe that goes to the tank. Old, rusty...couldn't get it to budge. Sprayed some PB Blaster on it and letting it set for half hour. If it don't break loose...well, I'll cut the pipe, pull the tank out and replace all the pipes and union in that section. Just crossing my fingers the Union busts loose.

Some are concerned with the health effects of PB Blaster. I don't know myself. https://blastercorp.com/wp-content/...ing-Catalyst-EN-OSHA-GHS-SDS-2019-09-24_1.pdf

I suggest you use two big wrenches. Borrow if you don't have any big ones.

 

[LLigetfa]

If its that rusty, I'd just hacksaw it off and work back to where there is no rust. Of course that means you need a ready supply of pipe/fittings to put it all back together.

 

[fitz75]

Some are concerned with the health effects of PB Blaster. I don't know myself. https://blastercorp.com/wp-content/...ing-Catalyst-EN-OSHA-GHS-SDS-2019-09-24_1.pdf

I suggest you use two big wrenches. Borrow if you don't have any big ones.

 

[fitz75]

Hello Reach4. Yeah, I understand. We twisted the whole rusted union off one end of the pipe by force, then backed the 8" section of pipe that connected the union to the pipe to the tank. Discarded it. Went and bought a new galvanized union, and a shorter galvanized pipe to raise the tank because whoever installed this setup previously used what ever they had, leaving the drain valve in the dirt. Crap. I had 3 concrete bricks to raise the tank out of the dirt in the bottom of the bunker, rested the tank on the bricks, and EVERYTHING lined up perfect.

Ok, got everything installed today just before dusk. Cold, tired.. but satisfied. Everything worked... thanks to you guys. Primed the line from the pump to the tank, got it filled.... Used teflon, cleaned all threads, VOILA! Wife is happy. Got full pressure... no pulsations. I call this a success... thanks to you guys. Man, let me tell you. This forum is the BEST, most responsive forum I've ever delt with. Thank you so much.