Disgusting Viscous Liquid Discharge from Hot Water Heater

[Jac]

Wow! here is the surprising text you are referring to:

• Second, it produces about a thousand times its original volume in corrosion byproduct, most of which falls into the bottom of the tank as a sort of jelly, and adds to sediment buildup there.

One good thing, such a compound would not be dangerous for washing. It would not ingest it. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/21157018 says

The hypothesis that Al significantly contributes to AD is built upon very solid experimental evidence and should not be dismissed. Immediate steps should be taken to lessen human exposure to Al, which may be the single most aggravating and avoidable factor related to AD.​

Jac, I use a powered anode. It protects like magnesium, but it does not provide chemicals for reactions. But it is much more expensive than a conventional anode (it is now $257 for one like mine with the long titanium electrode). I expect to move mine to my next WH.

WH flushing can be done different ways. The simplest is to

1. Turn off the water, and put the WH in vacation mode, if it has one. Otherwise off.
2. Open a hot water tap to pass air.
3. Drain the WH completely
4. Turn the water supply on fully for a few seconds, and turn off. You are trying to cause turbulence to the bottom of the tank.
5. Do steps 3 and 4 several times. If you have a way to monitor the drained water, you could judge by what you are getting out.
6. Turn the water and WH back on. Close the hot water tap once the air has been expelled and just water is coming out.​

Hi Reach. Spent hours more researching. Really tempted to dump our 3 month old Crown Boiler indirect hot water heater (glass lined). Called Crown who did not want to discuss what type of anodes they put in. My plumber called them - they only put in Al in their heaters, no magnesium.

The lab tests indicated that we have slightly acid water - pH7. Raw and bathroom taps showed similar amounts of calcium and magnesium, i.e. hard water. Sodium levels slightly higher than normal in unsoftened water (144 and 151 mg respectively). Total coliform present (well since shocked and now corrected). Tests done on the glutinious material primarily Al, calcium, sodium with smaller amounts of copper, iron and zinc.
So, before dumping the new heater (research on other heater brands driving me nuts), could you kindly give me guidance as to the following:
Flush tank as per your instructions AND replace all three Al anodes with magnesium anodes
OR
flush tank as above AND remove all 3 Al anodes, and use powered anode instead of mag. ones. I read very interesting articles on http://www.waterheaterrescue.com/OrderPages/Power-Anode-Rigid.html which said that "powered anode not recommended for multi-anode indirect heaters!! Would I use 2 or 3 powered anodes then and not just one? They cost $130 each from the same website.

Trying to figure out all angles before taking drastic step to buy new heater with probably new issues! Thanks very much for your time. Jane

P.S. If we put in 3 magnesium anodes, will they make the water smell? Our well water currently has no smell to it.

 

[Master Plumber Mark]

you are on well water and I would suggest just getting rid of the anode rods all together in your water heater...

I do not know what treatment you are doing to your well water but it looks like you ought to be at least getting
some sort of air injection iron filter that would take out a lot of these chemical elements before it hit the water softener which I assume you also have....... Having a a good iron filter and water softenr in line for the home would probably solve all of the issues

 

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[Reach4]

Flush tank as per your instructions AND replace all three Al anodes with magnesium anodes
OR
flush tank as above AND remove all 3 Al anodes, and use powered anode instead of mag. ones. I read very interesting articles on http://www.waterheaterrescue.com/OrderPages/Power-Anode-Rigid.html which said that "powered anode not recommended for multi-anode indirect heaters!! Would I use 2 or 3 powered anodes then and not just one? They cost $130 each from the same website.

I was unaware of the short one. Mine is the one with the coiled wire that you stretch out to fit the space. http://www.waterheaterrescue.com/OrderPages/Power-Anode-Coupling.html My WH takes only one, and is fairly near the middle. I think the extended length extends the protection more.

With 3 anodes, are they all on top, or are some on the sides. I am not sure what I would do in your case. I only have the experience with my one anode.