Correct 1/8" (?) tube between pump and pressure switch?

[AcidWater]

I was unable to find the tube the installation sheet talks about, but got some clear-ish that fits the spike on the fitting; I think its for fridge icemakers or something like that.

Recently I read that the correct way to seal the hose is to heat it so it expands, then slide it over the spike. So maybe I should invest in the correct hose, but where can I get a roll?

Every couple of years, the aperture behind the fitting on the pump casing gets blocked with mud, so I have to take the tube off the spike to clean it out. That involves using a razor knife, and I need to be careful not to nick the fitting (creating a leak).

Time to do it again, the shower quits halfway through for a couple of minutes while it re-pressurizes.

Also, how do I fill the switch diaphragm & tube with water (air in there is too compressible)?
Do I have to turn the switch upside down, use a syringe to fill the diaphragm, then attach the tube & shoot water to fill the tube, then attach the tube to the upper fitting?

I see for sale "Low Water Pressure Switch Automatic Cleanout."
What is that? A way to purge the air bubbles out?

Why don't the two pipes to/from the well to the pump have valves, so you can work on the pump without losing the water in the standpipes?

 

[Valveman]

Your pressure switch really needs to be on the tank, not the pump. If you will put a pressure switch on the line close to the tank, and place it on top of a 2' tall piece of pipe, the sediment won't be able to get to the switch. You will need a regular style pressure switch without the tube which has a regular 1/4" threaded female fitting on the bottom.

The pressure switch works fine with air as it does with water. They use the same switch on air compressors.

If you have a good foot valve you should not loose prime while working on the pump. It is not a good idea to have any ball valves on the suction side or before the pressure tank/switch as if you accidentally closed one, it would burn up the pump.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[AcidWater]

The sediment does not get to the switch, mud clogs the outlet on the impeller casing where the brass fitting for the tube is attached. When I remove the fitting, the threaded hole is nearly clogged.

Still hoping to find out where to get the proper 1/8" tubing, that I can heat to expand so it shrinks tightly on the nipple.

When you say to put the pressure switch on the tank, you mean to connect the 1/8" hose to some piping coming out of the tank, instead of to the impeller casing? I'd have to create such a fitting.

 

[Bannerman]

The most common pressure switch configuration is to plumb it to the tank Tee and run the wiring from the PS to the pump through flexible conduit.

 

[AcidWater]

And I presume you want the 1/8' hose and the pressure switch filled with water, not air ?

EDIT - looking at the photo, if not air, how do you fill the space with water when installing it?

And I suppose code wants the AC wire in a metal flex conduit?

And this is a shallow well jet pump, if it makes a difference. My neighbors is set up like mine, both date to the mid 1960's

 

[LLigetfa]

And I presume you want the 1/8' hose and the pressure switch filled with water, not air ?

There is no need to purge the air. The air does not affect the operation.

 

[AcidWater]

There is no need to purge the air. The air does not affect the operation.

But air is more compressable - won't that delay the switch operation, so the effective range between lo & hi is larger?

Not sure if I like the switch down low where it can get damaged easier.

 

[LLigetfa]

But air is more compressable - won't that delay the switch operation, so the effective range between lo & hi is larger?

No, it will not cause any delay. There is also air in your pressure tank.
If you don't want the gauge low, use a longer riser tube.

 

[Reach4]

I had always assumed those tubes, on the jet pumps that have their own pressure switch built on, were metal, rather than plastic.

Recently I read that the correct way to seal the hose is to heat it so it expands, then slide it over the spike. So maybe I should invest in the correct hose, but where can I get a roll?

I never heard of heating pipe to make it temporarily larger. I was aware of heating polyethylene pipe to make it more flexible to fit over the barbed fittings more easily.

The sediment does not get to the switch, mud clogs the outlet on the impeller casing where the brass fitting for the tube is attached. When I remove the fitting, the threaded hole is nearly clogged.

Anyway, if you don't want to move the pressure switch itself, you can connect the tube (with a longer tube) to the area of the pressure tank input. If you rise with larger diameter pipe from the connection point, and then reduce down for the rest of the trip to the pressure switch, that should prevent blocking with mud.

Do you flush out your pressure tank periodically by cycling it empty to expel accumulated sediment?

 

[Fitter30]

Take the barb fitting out of pump install tee with a nipple screwed into the run, pipe plug in the other end and the barb in bull ( side outlet). Can take the plug out to clean out the mud. Do that at the switch then it can be flushed without removing line.

 

[AcidWater]

I was aware of heating polyethylene pipe to make it more flexible to fit over the barbed fittings more easily.

That's what I want to do. So polyethelene tubing, what size ID / OD to fit over the barb on the 1/2" brass fitting? Dunno if its specified by ID or OD ?

 

[Valveman]

As was said, if the pressure switch line is getting clogged at the pump, move the pressure switch to the tank where it should be anyway. Just install a regular 1/4" lower pressure switch at the tank and wire around the existing switch on the tank as shown in the "jet pump" wiring here.

 

[AcidWater]

Take the barb fitting out of pump install tee with a nipple screwed into the run, pipe plug in the other end and the barb in bull ( side outlet). Can take the plug out to clean out the mud. Do that at the switch then it can be flushed without removing line.

That's a good idea, it gets clogged IN the impeller "bull."
I guess the "bull" is 1/2 NPT or National Fine... have to check a spare barb fitting, if I can find it...
I could put a new gage on without having to drain everything to replace the broken on at the bottom of the pressure tank.

Now I need to be able to depressurize the impeller... I isolate the output with a valve... I cut the 1/8 line & let it spurt.
SO need a 4-way for a drain valve... this is getting to be quite the Rube Goldberg fitting...

As was said, if the pressure switch line is getting clogged at the pump, move the pressure switch to the tank where it should be anyway. Just install a regular 1/4" lower pressure switch at the tank and wire around the existing switch on the tank as shown in the "jet pump" wiring here.

View attachment 78472

As was said, if the pressure switch line is getting clogged at the pump, move the pressure switch to the tank where it should be anyway. Just install a regular 1/4" lower pressure switch at the tank and wire around the existing switch on the tank as shown in the "jet pump" wiring here.

View attachment 78472

What is the label on the center switch for jet pump? PSIDEKICK ?
Why might I wind up with 2 pressure switches on my jet pump ?

 

[Valveman]

The wiring for "jet pumps" just shows how to wire around the existing switch on the pump. This way the existing switch doesn't have to be removed, it is just wired around so it doesn't work.