Condensate pump takeaway line 'issues'

[Mdenglund]

Hi All -

You have been of great support with past questions, so I thought I would give a few more a shot... My water alarm went off near my condensate pump (now wired into furnace, but I left alarm there, thankfully). Turns out I had a pinhole in the flexible copper right in front of the furnace switch... I cut the copper line (1/2'') and replaced the old vinyl tubing (5/8'' OD), but am nervous about a few things that I was hoping for insight on (photo attached):

1. Having the copper connected to the vinyl with the metal screw clamps makes me a bit nervous - is there any better alternative? I have not had luck with compression fittings and flexible copper in the past (yes, likely user error).
2. The takeaway line is always full of water from the pump to the ceiling - is this normal for it to remain full?
3. Thoughts on what caused the pinhole in the first place? It was pushed against the switch / outlet box a bit, but I don't think it was enough to cause a hole? I am wondering if the acidity in the water is eating the copper line (which travels 20' through a completely finished ceiling). Anything I can put in the pump to prevent erosion?

Thank you in advance!
Marty

 

[Jadnashua]

The condensate from a burner is acidic. That can shorten the life of any copper or metallic bits the water passes through. Touching something, even if it doesn't rub (it probably did, though) can cause some corrosion and pit the material. You don't really want metal on metal there.

So, not knowing how much you cut out or what's left, it's hard to say what may be best. I would consider an acid neutralization system. Essentially (there's more than one type), the more common one just runs the water through what looks like a filter, but the media in the filter is typically limestone...the acid eats the limestone, reducing the pH of the water getting out and down the line. Depending on the size of the filter and how acidic your condensate is will determine how often to add more media.

If you've just got a short section of copper cut out, you could use a SHarkbite slip connection. That will 'fill in' for a gap of up to around 2" and requires no tools. You do, however, need to ensure the cut ends are clean with no burrs on them, otherwise, you can damage the O-ring seal.

 

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[Mdenglund]

Thank you, Jim! You confirmed my suspicion on the acidic water and have increased my urgency in installing my DIY neutralizer I made a few months back (followed these instructions -

). While I was worried about what I could see, I am much more worried about the 20 feet of copper in the finished ceiling that carries the condensation to the floor drain on the other side of the house!! I have used shark bite in the past, so I appreciate that recommendation too, as I was not aware they worked on soft copper to vinyl.

Thanks again,
Marty

 

[Plumber69]

Just run the vinyl tubing all the way to a laundry standpipe if close by or a abs or pvc drain pipe. screw the neutralizer

 

[Mdenglund]

Just run the vinyl tubing all the way to a laundry standpipe if close by or a abs or pvc drain pipe. screw the neutralizer

Thanks for the thought... after looking again last night, I was thinking the same thing (partially because the neutralizer won't fit well there and could surface more issues). And, the copper just makes me nervous completely hidden in a long span. Because our entire basement has the ceiling insulated and drywalled, before undertaking the re-routing of the drain, I am hoping for some guidance on a few other questions:

1. Is 1/2'' piping ok for the entire run?
2. Are there upsides / downsides to vinyl or PVC?
3. Do I need to worry too much about slope of the run? It'll be tough to get a clean downward run towards the sink based upon the turns and need to go through the insulated ceiling in a closet and over a hallway (about 12 ft) to get to the laundry sink.
4. Can it discharge right into the sink itself vs. the standpipe?

Thanks again for the thoughts / perspectives!

 

[Plumber69]

Thanks for the thought... after looking again last night, I was thinking the same thing (partially because the neutralizer won't fit well there and could surface more issues). And, the copper just makes me nervous completely hidden in a long span. Because our entire basement has the ceiling insulated and drywalled, before undertaking the re-routing of the drain, I am hoping for some guidance on a few other questions:

1. Is 1/2'' piping ok for the entire run?
2. Are there upsides / downsides to vinyl or PVC?
3. Do I need to worry too much about slope of the run? It'll be tough to get a clean downward run towards the sink based upon the turns and need to go through the insulated ceiling in a closet and over a hallway (about 12 ft) to get to the laundry sink.
4. Can it discharge right into the sink itself vs. the standpipe?

Thanks again for the thoughts / perspectives!

Just use the tubing all the way, you don't need slope, the pumps do have a vertical limit. There is a built in check valve on the pump, so there will always be water in tube

 

[Plumber69]

I discharge them in the standpipe, the soap from laundry is a neutralizer

 

[Chucky_ott]

1. Is 1/2'' piping ok for the entire run?
2. Are there upsides / downsides to vinyl or PVC?
3. Do I need to worry too much about slope of the run? It'll be tough to get a clean downward run towards the sink based upon the turns and need to go through the insulated ceiling in a closet and over a hallway (about 12 ft) to get to the laundry sink.
4. Can it discharge right into the sink itself vs. the standpipe?

Thanks again for the thoughts / perspectives!

My condensate pump uses a 1/2" ID vinyl tube. From pump, 8ft rise to the ceiling, 20ft horizontal run across ceiling, drains directly into sink (no stand pipe available). Never had an issue.

 

[Jadnashua]

Sharkbites don't work on vinyl or, soft copper from what I understand. They do work with cpvc, hard copper, and pex, though.

IF the pipe is acid resistant, I wouldn't worry about water standing in the pipe although I would try to get slope where possible.

Each condensate pump will have a spec for head (i.e., the amount of lift), but horizontal distance usually isn't an issue.

 

[Plumber69]

Ive seen pex fittings completely disolve in less then 2 years with furnace condensate

 

[Mdenglund]

Thanks, all! Vinyl or PVC it is... my rise is good per my pump spec and I'll work a slope in as much as possible with the new run. I appreciate all of the replies!