CI Flange 1/2 " below sub-floor

[GrumpyPlumber]

Note to Grumpy; Still Learning; In No Hurry.

"How would I have done this if I wanted to replace the cast and raise it the 1" i would have needed to get it above the subfloor? That's what I'll do next time!" NEXT TIME, Means NOT THIS TIME


I guess you didn't have time to answer the question, that's too bad. Perhaps somebody else can tell me about cutting and raising a CI Flange.

Molo..just kidding...couldn't resist.
Mind you...the following is not an easy task...plumbers "territory" here.
IF you really wanna do this right....get a drill, drill into the lead in the seam of the flange, then take something thin like a small screwdriver and pull it upwards, once you get a "bite sized piece" up you can grab it with channel locks and pull.
You'll likely only get small pieces at a time, but slow and sure it comes out.
Below that is the oakum...it's easier...use the screwdriver and pick it out.
Then put a new cast iron flange with a 4" hub in place, (they come with 2" hubs, but your pipe is already too low, based on the fact that the existing flange is below the floor.
brace it by either bolting, or screwing a piece of strapping to the top surface of the flange, with shims between the strapping and floor to hold it to the height you want it at.
Then wrap new oakum around the pipe at least 3-4 times, each time you go around once, pack it down mindfull not to be pushing the oakum past the bottom of the hub.
Remember the OAKUM makes the seal NOT the lead!
You will continue wrapping/packing until you have a 1" gap to the top of the pipe, being sure to push any stray strands of oakum into the hub and out of the way.
Finally, the "fun" part...you'll need a ladle, torch and 5 lbs of lead (plumbing supplier).
Find somewhere safe to sit the lead where it can't drip and melt/burn anything below, take the ladle and put it directly under the lead and position your torch so that it points down into the ladle as it melts the lead...you want to keep the ladle hot as well as the lead (glove on hand holding ladle).
once your ladle is full (NOT half...you want at least enough to fill that gap in the flange) pour it in.
Then you pack the lead all around the circumference of both the inner and out edges with a "packing iron"...technically you should have two seperate irons that are sized with a radius to each, but most of us plumbers only use one.(sins to confess...one day).
If this seems like alot, go with the flange extensions other members have suggested above.

 

[GrumpyPlumber]

One last thing...CAREFUL!
Don't get any lead into the drain...it's heavy and often creates clogs ...put a "dollar plug" in the drain opening before you pour.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Molo]

It seems you've come around from your fit of sarcastic degradation, taken the time to give me a detailed explanation, and also confused me a bit. Is the strapping temporary? I have an old timer nearby who owns a plumbnig supply house. That's where I would get the material to do this kind of work. He has shown me his lead/oakum tools, and told me about when he did lead and oakum joints on 24" diameter pipe for the local college. He still has old lead water pipes laying around in his shop. He's a good resource, but I like to have some idea about what I'm talking about before I go into the shop.

TIA,
Molo

 

[Jadnashua]

The strapping is temporary to hold the flange where you want it while you make up the joint. Now, if your finished floor is done and you left enough room around the pipe, you should be able to just set the flange down on the finished floor and no strapping would be required. Then, add the oakum and lead. Keep in mind, the best place for the flange is on top of the finished floor, and anchored through it into the subflooring.

 

[GrumpyPlumber]

It seems you've come around from your fit of sarcastic degradation, taken the time to give me a detailed explanation, and also confused me a bit. Is the strapping temporary? I have an old timer nearby who owns a plumbnig supply house. That's where I would get the material to do this kind of work. He has shown me his lead/oakum tools, and told me about when he did lead and oakum joints on 24" diameter pipe for the local college. He still has old lead water pipes laying around in his shop. He's a good resource, but I like to have some idea about what I'm talking about before I go into the shop.

TIA,
Molo

Molo...you just have to know me...I have a dry sense of humor, you can't be oversensitive.
"degradation" is a bit strong of a word..it was a joke...feel free to throw one back at me..I'll laugh, (I'm ugly, my mommy dresses me funny) think as if you're "one of the boys" on a construction site.
As far as getting the stock, your oldtimer friend will be perfect...just tell him you need the things I listed and you're off to the races.
Also, Jadnashua hit a point I missed earlier...you're looking to get the flange to a height where it rests on the finish floor, so if the finish floor is already down...just rest it in place.

 

[Molo]

No problem Grumpy, "degradation" was a bit of that dry humor, if I may. I've read several of your posts, and you are definitely a good addition to this forum.
Please let me share my approach to most projects and my thoughts on this forum; I often have several projects going at once! Not for other people, but for myself. Often times there is no sense of urgency, because I have alternative systems in place (other toilets, bathroom sinks, heater, lights, etc). This lack of absolute neccesity is a true luxury, it grants me the time to think through a project and it's components. This forum is a wonderful collaborative resource that helps me to learn alot, such as what methods, techniques, and materials to use. I really enjoy comparing and contrasting methods, and the collaboration that a site like this offers. I don't mind a project lasting 2-4 weeks, while I read and research! Often times my reading leads to more questions, such as the ones that I posted earlier in this thread about flange purpose, and the design/engineering behind the toilet to floor connection, and wondering what is the best way to secure a toilet for worst case scenarios (drunk guy doing a jig on the water closet) there wasn't a huge discussion of toilet stability, but I won't stop trying to learn more about it.
This forum is a valuable resource. A currently active thread that I'm following is MasterPlumberMarks "tankless experiment". This is being done in the spirit of learning, in an unbiased setting, very much like true research and development is meant to be done. Posts like this one are very valuable. This is what seperates the developed nations from the ones who are still burning open fires in their huts without proper places for the smoke to escape. When people take the time to consider, compare, contrast, and collaborate, amazing things can happen. And so I will continue to read, ask questions, ask some more questions, then read some more, and contribute what I can where I can.... and someday I might be able to pour piss out of a boot that has a hole in the toe and directions on the heel! Amongst other things...

Molo

 

[GrumpyPlumber]

"Master Plumber Mark: Notes on tankless experiment...6 months to decide on where to install it....6 months to decide on what size....6 months to convince wife..."
See Molo?
It's humor...a lil' ribbing makes it fun (IF he'd just install the thing already!)

 

[Frenchie]

Bah, Grumpy - Molo was busy doing his wiring this week!

https://terrylove.com/forums/showthread.php?t=14027

Let's admit it: we're just jealous.

Don't you wish your projects had no deadlines? I know I often do...

 

[GrumpyPlumber]

Bah, Grumpy - Molo was busy doing his wiring this week!

https://terrylove.com/forums/showthread.php?t=14027

Let's admit it: we're just jealous.

Don't you wish your projects had no deadlines? I know I often do...

Excuses...excuses

 

[Molo]

OK, IF I go with the extension ring in the original photo, Do I put wax between it and the CI? As for CI flange support I do have 2 x 4 bracing underneath it.

TIA,
Molo

P.S. Hi Grumpster

 

[GrumpyPlumber]

OK, IF I go with the extension ring in the original photo, Do I put wax between it and the CI? As for CI flange support I do have 2 x 4 bracing underneath it.

TIA,
Molo

P.S. Hi Grumpster

Wouldn't hurt, but If ya don't get this done soon we're gonna cut yer pay!

 

[Molo]

Wouldn't hurt, but If ya don't get this done soon we're gonna cut yer pay!

I don't care about the pay, I gotta go!