Bathroom remodel plumbing

[julaney]

The initial remodel of our 7x10 bathroom did not require moving any plumbing and we planned to DIY the entire project. Now that we have everything in, it is apparent that the old configuration will not work. We now need to move the bathtub, sink and toilet. The bathroom is gutted down to the floor joists. The crawl space provides easy access to the main sewer line that runs through the bathroom prior to exiting the house. We have installed water shut off valves and plan to replace the cooper pipe with PEX. While we are capable of installing water lines, bathtub, vanity, toilet and fixtures, we are not comfortable with the required sewer drain line modifications. The toilet will require splicing into the main sewer line just before it exits the house. The vent pipe will continue to exit through the same location in the roof but will need to be routed to the left of the tub valve and water lines. The tub and sink drain line will need to be installed including p traps. Because this is a log cabin, with exception to the vent pipe that will share the only wall with the tub filler, all sewer lines including p traps will be installed below the floor. We are ready to install the sub-floor but figured we get the plumbing estimates while everything is exposed. The existing plumbing drain lines are still in but can be removed with a single cut.

How much can we expect a plumber to charge for the required drain lines? I can't see how this will take an experience plumber more than 3 hours. My past experience with plumbing estimates has included major sticker shock. That is why we are now comfortable with installing fixtures and running water lines.

 

[WorthFlorida]

Cost is all over the place base mainly where you live. For repair work usually it's a per hour charge, new work could be a flat charge to do the work. \

P traps below the floor can only be for a tub or shower fixture. It is probably at least a day or two of labor for a plumber and it's never as easy as it looks. First the plumber will have to look over the work and he may not have every piece needed so a trip to his supplier is time. It just might need to bore holes in the floor joist that takes more time. Also, who is applying for the permit, wait for the inspector and make any corrections. Then you have the final connections after the fixtures are installed if needed.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Dj2]

"I can't see how this will take an experience plumber more than 3 hours."
How did you arrive at 3 hrs?

 

[Reach4]

Your existing PVC should not have had a sanitary tee on its side.

 

[WorthFlorida]

Not to beat on the originator of this post but as a tool for others to learn from. In addition to Reach4 comments, I see no supports for the horizontal drain pipe. A competent plumber will have to cut it all out and maybe more of it going under the floor to the left. Other notes, the crack in the foundation shows the extreme weight of log walls and the floor joist appears to be 24" centers. Sistering the joists was the right thing to do.


See page 3
https://www.co.lincoln.or.us/sites/..._-_helpful_hints_residential_construction.pdf

 

[julaney]

We are having a difficult time getting a plumber so we are moving forward with plans and will do the work ourselves if it comes to that. At this point the final configuration will be determined by the drains and vents required for a free standing tub, toilet and sink. As shown in the initial post, the existing constraints include log walls which cannot have any plumbing, a single internal wall which holds the vent stack that continues through the roof, maintaining entry and exit points for existing 3 inch line. I also plan to use the internal wall for the tub filler. All other plumbing will be in the existing crawl space which will require putting p traps for both the tub and the sink below the sub-floor (I know not allowed). The previous pedestal sink had the p trap below the sub-floor and we never had any problems. The entire crawl space is accessible. Please look at the initial design and provide any recommendations. The biggest challenge is venting each fixture. I really wanted to flip flop the vanity with the toilet but thought it would be really difficult to vent the toilet in that location. The tool I am using seems to think it is ok to run horizontal vents to the stack. I'm sure this is not optimal. Also the tool refuses to run a vent to the sink. Our kitchen sink has an Air Admittance Valve which works well so I guess we could do the same but would prefer vent to the stack if possible. Any recommendations would be appreciated. I apologize for any misuse of terminology, hopefully the images will help.