Aging well setup, preparing for the inevitable

[Dja4260]

Hello everyone.

I recently purchased my forever home just outside of Greenville SC. It's my first home with a well system. Previous owner said everything is original to 1994.

Current set up:

Well (per tag on casing)
Casing depth: 36'ft
Static water level: 40
Depth 180'ft
Diameter: 6 1/4''in
Yield: 70 gpm

Pump is unknown but 3 wires exit the cap (red, green, black).

Water tank:
Amtrol Well x-trol 44 gallon with 40/60 switch. Located in the basement of a 2 story (above grade) home.

The pump currently turns on at 50 psi and shuts off at 68psi and I have a very noticeable loss of water pressure until pump kicks on, which I find to be very annoying. I did try to further adjust the 40/60 switch and managed to ensure that the pump stayed on for 1 minute at minimum to reduce short cycling. Obviously things are out of wack and the pressure switch should be replaced.

I'd like to be proactive and educated on what's best for my family when the time comes to replace these items.

My wife and I have 3 young children and 4 bathrooms. We don't water our 4 acres and fill up kiddie pools often!

I was looking at large well tanks, then read up on CSVs.

I'd appreciate your insight on the brand/HP of pump, well tank or CSV. If at all possible, I'd like to have more water pressure. House is unfortunately currently piped in CPVC.

Thank you all for your help.

 

[Dja4260]

I also just got a water report as I brew beer. The well water is very clean and neutral. I have no water filters of any sort. It makes excellent beer!

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Reach4]

The pump currently turns on at 50 psi and shuts off at 68psi and I have a very noticeable loss of water pressure until pump kicks on, which I find to be very annoying.

1. How long does that loss of water pressure that you describe last? One second, 20 seconds, or what?
2. Connect a garden hose thread pressure gauge to a laundry tap or the drain on the WH. When you are drawing water and feel the pressure is low, how does that extra pressure gauge reading compare to the reading on the gauge at the pressure tank? If you don't have enough eyes and hands for concurrent readings, you might record the episode on a cellphone movie. What I am wondering is if you are getting significant pressure drop between the pressure gauge by the tank and the pressure gauge farther along the path of the water.

 

[Dja4260]

1. How long does that loss of water pressure that you describe last? One second, 20 seconds, or what?
2. Connect a garden hose thread pressure gauge to a laundry tap or the drain on the WH. When you are drawing water and feel the pressure is low, how does that extra pressure gauge reading compare to the reading on the gauge at the pressure tank? If you don't have enough eyes and hands for concurrent readings, you might record the episode on a cellphone movie. What I am wondering is if you are getting significant pressure drop between the pressure gauge by the tank and the pressure gauge farther along the path of the water.

This morning I tried the master shower, which is furthest away from the well tank. The loss of pressure is very pronounced, and last about 1 second. That also applies to the master bath sink faucet or toilet if I catch it at the right time (pump kicks on). I then tried the shower in the basement, about 15 feet from the well tank. When the pump kicks on the loss of pressure is not pronounced and I need to pay attention to catch it. In the master shower/sink/toilet, there is no denying when the pump kicks on

I do not have a pressure gauge but can purchase one. It would appear that I'm getting a significant pressure drop further along the path of water.

 

[Valveman]

You may have a clogged filter or a restriction somewhere. However, pressure is always lower when coming from the tank than when coming from the pump. The tank pressure is always descending. Pump pressure is always increasing. Adding a CSV will keep the pressure constant at about 65 PSI as long as you are using water. After the tank is empty the first time, the CSV will make water come directly from the pump for as long as a faucet is open. A constant 65 PSI from the CSV will be noticeably stronger than when the pump is cycling on/off between 50 and 68 over and over.

Even if you do have a restriction, you know the pressure is good when the pump is on, and the CSV keeps the pump on as long as water is being used.

 

[Reach4]

This morning I tried the master shower, which is furthest away from the well tank. The loss of pressure is very pronounced, and last about 1 second.

It could be that the air precharge is too high. Precharge should usually be set 2 psi lower than the turn-on pressure, to supply water during the time it takes for the pressure switch to react and the pump to deliver water.

There could also be something delaying the pressure switch from turning on as the pressure drops. This could be a bad pressure switch, or a bad restriction in the nipple delivering the water pressure to the switch.

Have you drained your pressure tank, using the drain valve at the base of the tank, in the past year? Repeat until sediment is not coming out. Pump off, drain, pump on for 10 seconds. Repeat. If there was a lot of sediment, that could have gotten into the nipple to the pressure switch or the pressure switch itself.

I do not have a pressure gauge but can purchase one. It would appear that I'm getting a significant pressure drop further along the path of water.

They are commonly available from your local hardware store or builder store, and cost under $20.... sometimes a lot under.

 

[Dja4260]

It could be that the air precharge is too high. Precharge should usually be set 2 psi lower than the turn-on pressure, to supply water during the time it takes for the pressure switch to react and the pump to deliver water.

There could also be something delaying the pressure switch from turning on as the pressure drops. This could be a bad pressure switch, or a bad restriction in the nipple delivering the water pressure to the switch.

Have you drained your pressure tank, using the drain valve at the base of the tank, in the past year? Repeat until sediment is not coming out. Pump off, drain, pump on for 10 seconds. Repeat. If there was a lot of sediment, that could have gotten into the nipple to the pressure switch or the pressure switch itself.


They are commonly available from your local hardware store or builder store, and cost under $20.... sometimes a lot under.

I have never drained the pressure tank and I'm very doubtful the previous owner has either. Is this opening a can of worms our should I do it regardless if it's never been done?

 

[Valveman]

It maybe opening a can of worms, but it needs to be done occasionally. Just turn the power off and open a faucet to drain the tank. When drained check the air charge with a tire pressure gauge and add more air if needed.