KPS water
New Member
Was it making pressure before the tank replacement? Was there a galvanized or Clayton mark tank in there?
Yeah tighten the adjustment bolt on the CSV a few rounds to the right. That will bypass the CSV and make it work like a piece of pipe. Then if it doesn't build to 60 you have a pump problem.
I'm assuming the check is just above the pump, in the well.I don't see a check valve. So if it is a leak the pressure should drop even when no one is using water.
Was it making pressure before the tank replacement? Was there a galvanized or Clayton mark tank in there?
The pump is 17 years old based on service tags. Plus, who knows how long it was short cycling because of the bad pressure tank. It actually seems like the cycle stop valve is what put it over the edge if that's even possible.My money is on a leak....maybe old plumbing between well and house, csv did it in?? Keep us posted.
Is your power bill high?
Could be any of the following,
Rotted brass adapter
Split coupling in drop pipe
Worn out pump
Leak between well & house
Hole is discharge head of pump
Like Reach said, put a gauge before the switch and csv. Look down the hole at your pitless and I'd guess to listen for spraying even farther down. I assume at 320" you can't ess all the way down.
Also, what is that where the pipe goes through the block? It almost looks like cast. Also notice that the bottom row of block is wet. Could be wicking from the water you turned loose during work, but it looks the same in both pics. It also seems higher at the mortar joints like it's coming from inside the block or the other side of the block wall. Is it still wet a day or two after your work is complete?
There is no reason to install a gauge before the CSV. If you have the CSV bolt tightened in quiet a bit, the CSV is working like a piece of pipe and the pressure before it will be the same as after.
However, if that fitting with the Schrader is a check valve, a leak will not cause the pressure to not drop off when water is not being used. It could also mean that at one time there was an old galvanized tank in there. Then you could have had one of those rubber bleeder orifices about 5' down the well. The back pressure from the CSV could have popped out that old rubber bleeder. Those rubber bleeder can't handle more than 75 PSI.
I am just guessing of course, because even if it is just a popped out bleeder, it is 5' below the surface and you won't know until you can see it.
Yes. Extending the casing above ground and installing a pitless adapter is the right thing. Is there a steel casing? That will call for welding on the extension. This is worth spending money on.Next step is removing cement lid and well cap to inspect. I also need to install a head extension to raise it all above grade.
320' well... Could I assume it's blk poly pipe down to the pump since that's what's coming in through the foundation?
Yes. Extending the casing above ground and installing a pitless adapter is the right thing. Is there a steel casing? That will call for welding on the extension. This is worth spending money on.
Where is the black poly pipe? It looks like copper in your picture. Big copper. There must be a different view where you see poly that adapts to the copper.
Most do have a thermal overload switch.I don't know if those pumps have an overload built-in but that's what it seems like
Most do have a thermal overload switch.
When you have about 35 PSI, and the pump shuts off, and you are not using water, what happens to the pressure? This would not affect plans to pull the pump and extend the casing, but it would help predict what you would find.
Regarding the leak causing overload, I am not sure.So if there was a leak than would it still go off on over load? I feel like it's just a week pump and not being able to produce any more than 35 PSI is essentially like dead heading it (since the switch remains closed) and that's why it's going off on overload.
Regarding the leak causing overload, I am not sure.
When you cut off the power to the pump, and you are not using water, what happens to the water pressure? With a leak, the pressure would not hold.
To work around this temporarily, drop the pressure switch to where the pump will cut off. See if you can get the pressure low enough that the cut-off pressure is lower than what the pump can do. After you reduce the pressure switch setting, adjust the air precharge accordingly.
To raise or lower the cut-in and cut-out settings while keeping theI think it is common that you cannot adjust the differential to much lower than the 20 PSI differential that the switch comes pre-set to. You can try it. After you have the pressure off of the little spring, it is adjusted as narrow as it can go.
differential between those two settings constant, adjust the range
nut. The range nut is the 3/8-inch nut that adjusts the larger of
the two springs in Models FSG, FYG, FRG, and Type G Pumptrol
switches.
Turn the range nut clockwise to increase the cut-in pressure and
counter-clockwise to lower the cut-in pressure. Three and a half
revolutions of the range nut will change both the cut-in and
cut-out settings by approximately 10 psi.
Adjust the differential nut if you want to raise or lower the
cut-out setting while keeping the cut-in pressure constant. The
differential nut is the 3/8-inch nut that adjusts the smaller of
the two springs in Models FSG, FYG, FRG, and Type G switches.
Turn the differential nut clockwise to increase the cut-out pressure and counter-clockwise to lower the cut-out pressure. Adjusting the
differential nut will change only the cut-out setting while the
cut-in setting remains unchanged.
pumptrol adjustment.
So no leak.Press doesn't drop when faucets are closed.
That says that the precharge is around 20 currently. While the pressure is around 30, the precharge air will read within about a PSI of the water pressure. If it differs much, your water pressure gauge and air pressure gauge have different calibrations. For measuring or setting air precharge you do that with water pressure zero. This is a special exception for purposes of comparing calibration.It does however...
1) Press will not climb higher than 30 to 40 psi range. It varies.
2) When press drops from an open faucet it will drop steadily from 35 (or whatever it made it to last cycle) then drop suddenly to 0 at around 20 psi (give or take)