2" deep well jet packer suction size.

[Campsite plumber]

I am installing a new 2" sand point well. Depth to water is around 35-40'. What are my options for the suction pipe from the packer? I see a number of different types when doing research online. Does anyone use 1" schedule 40 instead of the 1.25" with the expensive couplers? And are these turned or slim couplings the same as merchant couplings? Does anyone use 1 or 1.25" pex with a short section of schedule 40 on the packer end? Thanks

 

[Valveman]

The packer can get stuck. It is best to use at least 1" sch 80 threaded. Sch 40 is too thin to thread. Merchant couplings are just standard, you will need the turned down ones.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Campsite plumber]

With 1" pipe you shouldn't need any special fittings should you? I thought they normally used 1.25" schedule 40 for the suction pipe.

 

[Valveman]

If the leathers on the packer get stuck it will break sch 40 glue joints trying to pull it. The only special fittings are the turned down 1" threaded couplings to fit in the 2" casing.

 

[Campsite plumber]

With a packer the 2" casing is the suction pipe. The 1" pipe is the drive pipe. If the leathers on the packer get stuck it will break sch 40 glue joints trying to pull it. The only special fittings are the turned down 1" threaded couplings to fit in the 2" casing.View attachment 94121

The diagram shows the red arrows as the flow direction. With that said, it shows the center pipe as the suction pipe. I should be okay if I use 1" galvanized schedule 40 pipe then? I read that the special turned couplers were necessary for clearance on 1.25" pipe. Still need 1 at the bottom by the packer.

 

[Reach4]

Galvanized works. But for homes, you would ideally have less steel in your well system. Galvanized is cheap, and your thought is that you already have the drive pipe as galvanized, so a little more won't be a big deal.

I read that the special turned couplers were necessary for clearance on 1.25" pipe. Still need 1 at the bottom by the packer.

You need one what? A 1-1/4 inch coupler below the packer? Are you saying that the packer that you plan to use has a 1-1/4 male thread on the bottom that you must adapt to? Many well devices have a 1-1/4 male and 1 inch female thread on the same device. Check yours to see if there is an inside thread too.

If that is the case, you could forego the tailpipe, and instead put a 1-1/4 foot valve right on the ejector.

Many "deep well" packer ejectors come with a foot valve already installed.

Note that I have no relevant experience, so use my post to identify things that you will search further.

EDIT: I am now thinking you are referring to the top of the packer, but still near the bottom of the well. That changes things. "Never mind"

 

[Valveman]

The diagram shows the red arrows as the flow direction. With that said, it shows the center pipe as the suction pipe. I should be okay if I use 1" galvanized schedule 40 pipe then? I read that the special turned couplers were necessary for clearance on 1.25" pipe. Still need 1 at the bottom by the packer.

Lol! You are right. Eyes are crossed from so many drawings. I will fix it. But you still need strong pipe to be able to pull the packer.

 

[Campsite plumber]

Galvanized works. But for homes, you would ideally have less steel in your well system. Galvanized is cheap, and your thought is that you already have the drive pipe as galvanized, so a little more won't be a big deal.
You need one what? A 1-1/4 inch coupler below the packer? Are you saying that the packer that you plan to use has a 1-1/4 male thread on the bottom that you must adapt to? Many well devices have a 1-1/4 male and 1 inch female thread on the same device. Check yours to see if there is an inside thread too.

If that is the case, you could forego the tailpipe, and instead put a 1-1/4 foot valve right on the ejector.

Many "deep well" packer ejectors come with a foot valve already installed.

Note that I have no relevant experience, so use my post to identify things that you will search further.

EDIT: I am now thinking you are referring to the top of the packer, but still near the bottom of the well. That changes things. "Never mind"

Yes, the top side of the packer has 1.25" threads and the plastic tubes that screw into the top of the packer are sized for 1.25" pipe. From what I see, the water that is pushed down goes through the packer then up around this plastic venture to help push or help water up the suction tube. I think that the first short length of pipe has to be 1.25" for that plastic thing to work properly.

 

[Campsite plumber]

Yes, the top side of the packer has 1.25" threads and the plastic tubes that screw into the top of the packer are sized for 1.25" pipe. From what I see, the water that is pushed down goes through the packer then up around this plastic venture to help push or help water up the suction tube. I think that the first short length of pipe has to be 1.25" for that plastic thing to work properly.

Thanks for your help so far. It just seems that it would be stronger to have 1 coupling at the bottom and 1 full length peice of pex all the way up to the casing adapter.

 

[Reach4]

Yes, the top side of the packer has 1.25" threads and the plastic tubes that screw into the top of the packer are sized for 1.25" pipe. From what I see, the water that is pushed down goes through the packer then up around this plastic venture to help push or help water up the suction tube. I think that the first short length of pipe has to be 1.25" for that plastic thing to work properly.

Thanks for setting me straight, and ending my confusion on that.

It just seems that it would be stronger to have 1 coupling at the bottom and 1 full length peice of pex all the way up to the casing adapter.

PEX would really lack the strength to push or pull the packer.