Well pressure tank question, please

Users who are viewing this thread

sae156

New Member
Messages
11
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
Colorado
So had a condition of quick cycling on the well pump and read a lot about fixing it in many DIY forums. Went with the easy way of draining pressure tank and refilling which did the trick and has been running fine for 2 weeks now. My question is should I go ahead and buy a new tank (about $205 locally) and change it out now? It's about 15 years old from what the last owner told me. Or just wait until the next time it gives me a problem? It's in a tight area which is the only headache to changing it out (should?) be. Thanks for the help! Scott
 

LLigetfa

DIYer, not in the trades
Messages
7,507
Reaction score
581
Points
113
Location
NW Ontario, Canada
You didn't say if you have a captive air tank or a hydro-pneumatic tank with airmaker system. The advice depends on the answer.
 

sae156

New Member
Messages
11
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
Colorado
ooops. sorry. it's a bladder type. if it wasn't in a tight spot and me being pretty tall, i'd replace without question. just one of those do it now before it does it again or wait a bit.
 

Valveman

Cary Austin
Staff member
Messages
14,633
Reaction score
1,304
Points
113
Location
Lubbock, Texas
Website
cyclestopvalves.com
If it lost air once it will do it again. The bladder is most likely busted and you are on borrowed time. A tight space is just one of many reasons to switch to a CSV and a small tank like this one.

Heres is a video of how to change out the big tank for the small one and CSV.
 
Last edited by a moderator:

sae156

New Member
Messages
11
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
Colorado
thanks Valveman! I took your advice after doing some online research and bought the PK1A kit. I'm also installing a Lasko Twist2Clean filter to get some of the coarse sand out of my system. It's the 250 micron screen. Should improve how many times I clean out faucets and washing machine ( I hope so, if not I'll change micron size).
I do have one issue with installing and I think I have a decent solution but I'd like a second opinion. I have to re-connect back to 3/4 copper for the house supply. I was planning on running 1" CPVC from the outlet of the Twist2Clean to a Nibco M027050 (3/4cpvc female slip x 3/4copper FIPT) with a step-down from the 1" to 3/4" sizing. Does that sound like my best option? Just sweat a male nipple on the copper supply line and mate up the CPVC to it. Hope that makes sense? Thanks, Scott
 

sae156

New Member
Messages
11
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
Colorado
thanks LL, but now I'm confused. the nibco fitting is this:
4703-CT.jpg


so should I buy the other nibco fitting that has a male copper end? then sweat a female fitting onto the 3/4 supply line? i didnt' figure it matter since it would be copper on copper.
 

Craigpump

In the Trades
Messages
2,436
Reaction score
158
Points
63
Location
Connecticut
If you think that course sand is hard on your faucets and washing machine, just think about what it's doing to your pump that spins at 3450 rpm.
 

sae156

New Member
Messages
11
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
Colorado
craigpump, I see your point but I need more info. the pump is roughly 450 feet down a hole. What next?
 

Craigpump

In the Trades
Messages
2,436
Reaction score
158
Points
63
Location
Connecticut
A Lakos seperator installed on the pump. Call your local pump guy and have him pull the pump and install it. We do it all the time, customers love them.
 

sae156

New Member
Messages
11
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
Colorado
A Lakos seperator installed on the pump. Call your local pump guy and have him pull the pump and install it. We do it all the time, customers love them.

thanks! can you give me a rough idea of cost? I'll give the company that put the pump in a call later this week. as a side note, what is the lifespan of a pump? If it's original to the house, it was put in in 1985. Would it be a good time to get a new pump along with the SUB-K separator? do it all at one time?
 

Reach4

Well-Known Member
Messages
38,907
Reaction score
4,440
Points
113
Location
IL
A Lakos separator installed on the pump. Call your local pump guy and have him pull the pump and install it. We do it all the time, customers love them.

Would raising the pump and/or adding a shroud do some of the same thing as the Lakos SUB-K? Each will leave the sand at the bottom of the bore. When you install a SUB-K, do you then clean out the well each time you pull the pump after a few years? Or does the build up go slow enough that cleaning is not often needed? It seems to me that it would be nice if there could be an air lift pump that could be at the bottom and lift out accumulated sand past the pump periodically.
 

Craigpump

In the Trades
Messages
2,436
Reaction score
158
Points
63
Location
Connecticut
A lot of sand in the toilets is a very small amount in a well.

A common misconception is that a submersible pump acts like a vacuum cleaner and will pull sediment off the bottom of the well. They pull standing water in at the suction between the motor and pump, therefore they pull in the sediment falling through the water.

A shroud could work, I've doing them for 25 years with great success, but I think a Sub K does better in certain situations.

Depends on the age of the pump, if its 7-8 yrs old, I'd change it at the same time.
 

Craigpump

In the Trades
Messages
2,436
Reaction score
158
Points
63
Location
Connecticut
The only feasible way to air lift sediment out of a 400' hole is with a rig or tag along compressor that will make enough pressure to unload the well and have enough volume to flush.
 

Reach4

Well-Known Member
Messages
38,907
Reaction score
4,440
Points
113
Location
IL
The only feasible way to air lift sediment out of a 400' hole is with a rig or tag along compressor that will make enough pressure to unload the well and have enough volume to flush.
I was pretty much musing about a possible system that could be in place, and the big compressor would be brought in to the sand producing well as needed. The novel thing would be that the sand lifting system would be already in place going around the pump in maybe a 6 inch or greater bore. I was thinking about a well that might accumulate sand at the bottom all of the way up to the inlet or bottom of the shroud. I hope those are rare.
 

Valveman

Cary Austin
Staff member
Messages
14,633
Reaction score
1,304
Points
113
Location
Lubbock, Texas
Website
cyclestopvalves.com
If that pump has been in there since 1985, you are not pumping enough sand to hurt the pump much. Just use the filter up top to keep the sand out of the toilets and things.

That fitting you pictured will work fine.
 

sae156

New Member
Messages
11
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
Colorado
the only time we get sand is when we get lots of rain usually in our monsoon seasons. from what I've read, all that extra water going into the aquifer stirs things up sediment wise. when the pump does go out, I'll add something like the Lakos at that time.

thanks for all the help to everybody who chimed in. a forum like this is great for the DIY'er.
 

Reach4

Well-Known Member
Messages
38,907
Reaction score
4,440
Points
113
Location
IL
the only time we get sand is when we get lots of rain usually in our monsoon seasons. from what I've read, all that extra water going into the aquifer stirs things up sediment wise.

That is alarming. Rain should not cause sand to be stirred up in a deep well. Describe your well head. Do you have a pit, is your casing sticking out of the ground, or what?
 
Top
Hey, wait a minute.

This is awkward, but...

It looks like you're using an ad blocker. We get it, but (1) terrylove.com can't live without ads, and (2) ad blockers can cause issues with videos and comments. If you'd like to support the site, please allow ads.

If any particular ad is your REASON for blocking ads, please let us know. We might be able to do something about it. Thanks.
I've Disabled AdBlock    No Thanks