Replacement Pump Suggestions

[MachAF]

Greetings everyone:

I have a 156 ft steel cased well with pitless that was drilled in 2004. Static water level was 101ft, air test was 40-50 gal minute. I'm not sure what the current pump is, all I know is the control box is a Franklin 2HP. I have a 86 gallon pressure tank on a 60/40 switch which takes about 1 minute to fill, so math leads me to believe it's a 20 gpm pump. The well provides water to a 3 bed 2.5 bath house and shop with 1 bath and sink. I want to pull and replace the pump because I'm getting water hammer on pump shut off (been happening for years and i'm getting fed up with it), which from research indicates the check valve is bad. I'd also like to install a CSV when I pull it so I can water the lawn with sprinkler system and not destroy the check valve. I stuck a camera down the well and it looks like PVC pipe on the end of the pitless, which makes life difficult for DIY. Also the pitless is very corroded with tons of build up around it and lots of leaking down the pipe; looks as if there is a leak somewhere..I don't lose pressure so not sure whats going on. Video is linked - going up the pipe and at the end you see the pitless adapter.

I've been looking at Grundfos pumps with soft start specifically because I lose power a lot and the generator would like the soft start of the Grundfos SQ series. Looks like these are 2 wire and my current setup is 3 wire. So I think just bypassing the control box and capping the neutral at the well head would work.

Any suggestions? Pull pump and replace? New pitless? Use poly or new PVC pipe? Pay some to do it (Any recommendations for south Seattle/Tacoma area? I currently have a CSV1A sitting around but i'm reluctant to install it do to the piping under the house. I'd rather put in a CSVS125A in the well itself.

Thanks for replies.

 

[Valveman]

A 2HP, 20 GPM pump with static at 101' can only build 138 PSI. The underground pipe should easily handle it. That being said because simply adding the CSV1A now may stop the water hammer on pump stop. The CSV will close down to 1 GPM to fill the tank before the pump shuts off. This should make the check valve just barely still open when the pump shuts off, and there should be no water hammer. But if the check valve is really bad and stuck open needing the water to reverse before it closes, you will still have water hammer until you replace the check valve. But I think the CSV is worth a try first.

Pitless doesn't look like it is leaking. Could just be oxidation. 160# poly pipe is fine, with metal, long barb fittings. Sch 80 or 120 PVC with metal couplings is also fine, but harder to DIY than poly. With any plastic pipe, double jacketed wire and eliminating as much cycling as possible is important.

Also glad to trade the CSV1A for a CSVS125 if you had rather.

I think the largest SQ with the soft start thing is 1.5HP. The 25S20-11 regular pump is much better, as long as your gen set can start it, which I think will take a 5K Watt generator.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[MachAF]

Thanks for the reply and offer to trade. The only reason I'm hesitant to put the CSV1A near the pressure tank is that one 10 foot section of piping under the house looks like it was replaced at some point. It was copper, they replaced with poly, looks like they used barb fitting and two clamps. The fittings are all rusted/corroded. I was just concerned about those connections holding up to the back pressure.
.

 

[Valveman]

Although the buckles on the hose clamps should be 180 degrees apart, I am sure the connections will handle the pressure. The back pressure from a CSV is usually less than the water hammer peaks caused by cycling on and off without a CSV. If you know which pump you have I can tell you what the back pressure will be?