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  1. Y

    Dilemma over using 3/4 vs 1/2

    Hi, I'm replumbing a part of the house in copper 3/4 and 1/2. Usually I go 1/2 for the pipes leading to faucets and 3/4 for the "carrier pipes" (the ones connected to the main water and water heater) across the house. One thing I wonder though. Under my kitchen sink there's the 3/8 dishwasher...
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    Installing manometer on brand new LFU5B-Z3 3/4 PRV

    Do you know if it’s possible to turn the PRV I have (which visibly doesn’t come with the gauge tapping) into a gauge tapped PRV? Perhaps by ordering the gauge tapped brass cap? Much thanks for your input
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    Installing manometer on brand new LFU5B-Z3 3/4 PRV

    For reference, I want to do this : But I have this under the PRV: As you see I would be supposed to have a hole on the "bigger" plug. Am I supposed to remove it or...?
  4. Y

    Installing manometer on brand new LFU5B-Z3 3/4 PRV

    Hi Can the LFU5B prv accomodate a manometer? I see pictures on the net showing the valve with a manometer attached to it. However I don’t see a screw that can be replaced by a manometer (lf25aub comes with one you just unscrew and screw back the manometer and voilà)
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    Tested a new main shutoff valve with air, worried about underground leak

    Sadly, after running 20 minutes the compressor, pressure did not build up past 20 psi. The underground pipe is most probably leaking... and beside, I learned today underground pipe repairs are not legal here. Gotta change the whole thing anyway...
  6. Y

    Tested a new main shutoff valve with air, worried about underground leak

    Yes I drove a camera into it and about 2-3 ft deep from the valve point (in the picture), there's water which makes it impossible to see further. I maybe have assumed too fast the pipe was bad and did turn off the compressor pretty quickly thinking about it now. It ran nowehere near 10 minutes...
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    Tested a new main shutoff valve with air, worried about underground leak

    Sorry for the confusion my post in convoluted. I'm testing like this : Compressor+gauge ---> Ball valve I soldered near basement floor ---> Type K copper line that goes underground ---> Service box valve (closed by the city) Any plumbing above is not connected (toilets, sinks, etc.) Image ...
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    Tested a new main shutoff valve with air, worried about underground leak

    I've been replacing the plumbing since awhile in my house. Water was shut at the city valve service box on my front lawn in September (I don't live there yet). I got delayed because of stuff outside the plumbing, in my general life. Mind, this is in Canada, cold winters, so underground lines...
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    Should I have re-heated the valve?

    Thanks for your answers! Regarding the damp rag, I didn't have any. Indeed I heard it is always huge mistake to cool a joint forcibly, so I never did it and I'm not in a hurry either like a pro. The reheated solder just cooled off and was less shiny on its own. Otherwise, the joint looks good...
  10. Y

    Should I have re-heated the valve?

    Hi, Recently bought a house and replacing all the plumbing from PolyButylene to copper. I'm now to this but I enjoy this kind of work. My underground water line is soft copper 3/4 inch. Since the main water shutoff was letting water in the system even when shut, I decided to cut it and replace...
  11. Y

    Should I have re-heated the valve?

    Hi, I bought a house and since insurance companies didn't like the fact it was all plumbed with polybutylene, I decided to replace it all for copper. And because the main water shutoff valve was letting a bit of water pass, I decided to ask the city to cut off my water supply and to redo the...
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