Recent content by Taylorjm

Be careful. If I remember correctly the AS champion models were ones that had constant leaks from the tank to the bowl and AS still didn’t have a solution to fix the problem. I guess the gasket leaks and there is only the one type to replace it with and it will still leak. I believe they have an...

I don’t see anything wrong with the purple pvc stack part. I was taking about before the trap. There’s a lot of slip connect fittings. You could simplify it with the tee in the middle dropping down to the trap similar to the picture I posted.

I had a similar s trap setup as you and I did something very similar. The only thing is you seem to have a lot of slip fittings. It’s hard to see what I did but the main line going down is in the right back corner with the aav at the top of that line by the sink. I don’t have any slip fittings...

Yes. I had the same issue with a washing machine under warranty. They scrapped the machine and gave me a new one because it would cost more to fix with the part and labor than the cost of a new machine.

I’m injecting it at 7ppm with a residue of about 4ppm which is dependent on my iron, 4ppm, manganese, I believe under 1ppm, amount and my well gpm at 17gpm. So my pump is set at about 2.25 gpd. Then it runs through a carbon backwashing filter that filters out the now soluble iron and hydrogen...

For me they definitely have their place. I used one for a hydronic heating change that was right next to a huge bundle of electric so sweating would have been near impossible. The cost of the tool plus the cost of the fittings would make a large job prohibitively expensive. The fittings being...

So what did you drill out? The valve body or the cartridge?

When I create a mortar bed I measure the area under the tub I want supported and transfer that to the floor. Then add mortar. I use a piece of wire with tape on it measured at the right depth and stick it into the mortar bed. Then set the tub.

You can defiantly over tighten a compression fitting. I’ve done it with 1/4, 3/8 and 1/2” copper. Once you over tighten it you are screwed because the ferrel is crushed and won’t seal again. Especially with 1/4” copper for refrigerator water supplies. They are very easy to overtighten.

That’s very common and is nothing to worry about. Tightening it more can actually cause worse issues so it’s a delicate balance. If it stops then you’re fine. If not then give it just a little bit more. I just installed a toilet quarter turn valve at my place that had a slight drip. I put a...

I don’t know why you would buy the 35% and worry about diluting it. The metering pump you have can probably be set to that amount depending what pump you have. The 7% isn’t that much. 4 gallons will treat about 50,000 gallons of water. That’s about average for our family of 4 for a year. The...

I use 7% for water injection because it's readily available in gallon containers easily on amazon. It's not that it's bad for your system because your injection pump only dispurses the small amount and it's diluted. I know 7% is not something to play around with and use gloves and safety...

Oh really? I didn't know that, thanks. But many recirc systems that use the bypass valve under the furthest sink and a pump at the water heater without the dedicated line are connected off the 3/8" compression valves under the sink. So what do those pumps run at?

If you are looking to do it quick while the water is off, then just put the valve in that spot. Then you can play around with the pex and any other repiping you want. Just remember, if you have a 3/4" copper line coming in and you are using crimp or or clamps on pex, you will want to use 1"...

Well I guess it depends on the size of the recirculating line. I assumed it would be 1/2” which shouldn’t have any issue with 3gpm. But if it’s smaller than yeah there’s a lot more velocity.