Recent content by Stephen Majewski

This is my latest configuration based on the feedback. I'll need to re-route some copper to get the Santee "off it's back" as I've done The only thing I haven't addressed here is how the 2" vent ties in (supposed to be a wye) I have a 2" vent about a foot downstream of one toilet and a foot...

I have each fixture (showers and lavs) directly vented at the fixture, so I'm not sure if wet venting applies to me. (toilets are basically self-venting, right?). Either way, I have the 2" vent direct to the main horizontal manifold. I have two toilets and a lav basically right on top of the...

Here's what the new model looks like. Washlet ready. The seat has a larger base to cover the water line pass-through.

Here's an updated version of that drawing that reflect what I'm doing. The 2" entering on the left is a shower an lav that each have their own vent

What I'm basically doing is this (with a wye at the end instead of the santee) The difference being I have a 2" vent instead of 3", and I'm adding one lav drain between the two toilets which is itself dry-vented. This wouldn't be UPC 908.2, what code sections am I looking for...

I see what you're saying, which is to focus on tying into the vertical stack I could do that, but then the basement wall becomes a forest of pipes, I'd like to try to find a solution with a horizontal manifold first. The connections and venting for the top part of the sketch are ok, right? So...

I'll work on a plan view. So the main issue is that the tee is too vertical. I can replace that with a wye and a bend. Otherwise can the tee inlet be horizontal with a 90 bend going up?

This is the rough of the new configuration. 3" First toilet gets an elbow into the manifold, second gets a sanitary tee. That manifold also has a 2" air vent (shown) coming out of the top and another 1.5" connection for the guest sink. What I haven't completely figured out is how to tie the...

Ok, so maybe the fittings are just worth their weight in dirty brass. I did get the connection out. Used some 6" long 1/8' mild steel drills from Harbor Freight. The bottom of that plug fitting is flared so it didn't just want to pull straight up. The old bathrooms were called "Jack and Jill"...

I'm finding that a 1/8" drill at multiple angles weakens the lead sufficiently that a thin screwdriver can pry it up. Slow going... I'll probably donate my fittings to a salvage second-use store. Some of them cost 100's these days.

Ah. So this isn't a threaded fitting like the clean out just below it. So they jammed Oakum into the joint and then poured molten lead on top. Old-timey stuff!

This is where my drain dives below the slab from 3" copper to 4" cast iron I asked my local plumbing supplier and all he said is that it was some "old-timey stuff", either "oakem" or poured lead. I tried unscrewing the plug with a 36" wrench and no-go. I need to open up the cast iron for new...